Advice on front-end-loader

[brdmkr]

I should get an award for knowing the least and asking the most :D

I have an opportunity to purchase an old front end loader.  The guy who has it says that it worked when he took it off of his tractor.  He is a welder by trade and said he could make it fit my tractor.   I would jump on it, but it looks really rough.  I wouldn't want to use it without all new hoses.  Replacing the pipe may be in order too.  The cylinders look pretty good though.  It only has a 4 ft. bucket, but that would be OK.

He told me he would take 500.00 for it.  I think I could get him to mount it and make sure it works for that price.  My question is how standard are the hoses and tubes (it is really old)?  Would it be any trouble to replace all of these?  It is a Shawnee brand.  I have not been able to find much about the company on the internet.  If I have trouble down the road, is it expensive to have cylinders repaired?  Is there anything else I should consider?

Sorry for asking so many questions, but I want to make sure that if I buy this thing, I am not purchasing a major money pit.

[Tom]

Repairing cylinders can be relatively expensive.  Look at Bailey's http://www.baileynet.com/ for new prices.
You probably have a hydraulic shop in your neighborhood.  Hoses are generally readily available.  I get mine at NAPA if I'm away from my regular hydraulic shops.  Hoses are made to spec.  Just take the old one in and they will fix you a new one.   Steel piping is very durable.  It can rust through but it takes a while. The good thing about steel pipe is that you can silver solder it and fix holes.

If he will attach the thing to your tractor included in the $500 price, I'd say it isn't too bad. 

You will  wonder how you ever got along without a Front End Loader.  A small one makes a good wheel barrow and bulldozer blade.  If the hydraulics are strong enough, you can move logs with it.  I have chain hooks welded on the top of my bucket and they sure are handy.

What you can't lift, you can usually push.   Think of rear-end weight.  I use a boxblade with stuff thrown up on it or sometimes I use the bush hog.  If your tractor hasn't got 4 wheel drive  or power steering, a front end loader is difficult to use.  Steering becomes almost impossible. You can't even use steering brakes.  If that is the case, you might be better off looking for forks for the 3 point hitch.  Booms work good back there too.

[J_T]

I get my hose's at Rual King they cheep 8) They got the retofittings too. I put new ones on when they break  ??? They got braided steel in them things . I second what Tom said  8)

[DanG]

Hoses are not a problem.  There must be a half-dozen or more places in Bainbridge that can duplicate them.  If he can make it fit your tractor for $500, buy it!  It will change your life. ;)

[brdmkr]

Let's say I get the bucket mounted with new hoses and such.  Is there a way to test the integrity of the cylinders?   Thanks for the info on the hoses.  I didn't realize they were so readily available locally.  I also found out that we have a couple of hydraulic repairmen in the area, so thanks for that info too.

[ronwood]

brdmkr,

Guys correct me if I am wrong but it seems to me with the hydralics part of how well it will lift is how good the pump is in the tractor. Look to see if the there is oil leaking out where the rod comes in and out of the cylinder. If there is no oil the seals are ggod.

Ron

[raycon]

If you have a NAPA near by they will probably have the ability to make new hydraulic lines up for you with the proper fittings. Just bring in your old lines. Last time I had lines made up for a Ford loader they
ran me about $20 a line. Theres a lot of short segments 10  if I'm counting in my head right.

Look at the rods on the hydraulic cylinder and see if there pitted badly and check out how worn the bushings are. Look for welded repairs, failed welds,cracks, and if its still square. Chances are the cylinders will probably function while the pumps runnig just might not hold pressure -- don't walk under the bucket or shut the tractor off when the buckets over your truck or mill

[thurlow]

Let's say I get the bucket mounted with new hoses and such. Is there a way to test the integrity of the cylinders?

Just try to pick up something heavier than it will lift.   All tractors have a relief valve somewhere in the hydraulic system.  Depending on make and age of tractor, it's probably in the 2000-2500 PSI range.  The loader and frame should be designed to handle anything the hydraulics will lift, so they shouldn't be at risk.  When the system can't lift because of overload, the relief valve opens and dumps the oil back into the system.  If you don't have any (major) leaks while under load, your cylinders and hoses are probably good-to-go.   If you use it long enough, you'll eventually bust a hose and spray oil everywhere.  This can be dangerous and oil can pentrate your skin, but only if you're within a few inches of the break.  Blew one out on my wood splitter a couple of weeks ago and soaked my pants leg.  As far as repairing the cylinders, it all depends.........some use a simple o-ring (or 2 or 3).  Some are more complicated with vee-packing etc.  I'm not familiar with Shawnee and would guess they're no longer in business, but any good hydraulic shop can come up with the repair parts.

[DanG]

Mike, is it currently mounted on a tractor, or just laying out in the bushes somewhere?  If its the latter, you will be taking a small risk of having repair costs right away, since you can't check it out properly until it is on your tractor.  Also, the small bucket is giving me a red flag type feeling.  What kind of tractor was it on before?  It may not be sturdy enough for your's.  You're familiar with my loader, and your tractor is about the same size as mine.  If that one isn't comparable to my loader, you might want to do some more looking around.  If it is heavily built, then you have a base to work from and it can be made to work.

Another thing that is nice to have is a quik attach bucket.  I can drop off the bucket on mine in about 2 seconds.  I'm planning on building a set of forks to snap on in place of it, when I get a roundtuit.(it's on backorder. :-\)

[brdmkr]

Dan

The loader WAS on an old international 6 cylinder gas tractor.  The tractor likely has more HP than mine.  However, it is now in the bushes.  I am not affraid of this guy trying to take me, as I know him pretty well.  I am certain he will make it fit my tractor and if it does not work, there would be no deal.  I am not sure if the loader is as heavily built as yours or not.  It seems pretty beafy, but that itty bitty bucket seems to make the whole thing seem small. 

[Tom]

Brdmker

Farm Hand and some imitators, used narrow buckets, but the equipment was good.  A narrow bucket is handier if you are digging.  A wider bucket is handier if you are grading.

Don't judge the loader by the size of the bucket.

Most equipment is built today to fit the width of the tractor so that tire marks don't show or to keep from hitting trees.  That's why most mowers don't stick out the side of the tractor and most Loaders are the width of the tires.  It's a judgement call as to whether you wish to follow that axiom or create your own.

I've found that I break the rule frequently. 

[Rockn H]

Some of the smaller buckets I've seen are older and didn't come with hydraulic tilt on the bucket.  Just hydraulic up and down for the main beam with a manual dump on the bucket like a dirt scoop on a three point hitch would have. 

[Flyboy]

   brdmkr, check out www.surpluscenter.com for hydraulic stuff. Fittings, hose, pumps, cyclinders, I have bough a lot of stuff from them! Good guys, reasonable priced. ;) I bought 2 blade lift cyclinders for my old skidder, cheaper and with less hassle than I could get them from a TJ dealer.

[isassi]

Just a note of caution...if the loader looks rough, was it due to extream loading? If so...take the time to Carefully inspect the pins and bushings for cracks and broken welds....a twisted loader frame can be very dangerous. As to the cylinders, they should be straight...no bends in the rods. Worst thing to happen to cylinders are packings...the orings and such...easily replaced by you or someone else...all the other issues are addressed by others above. Good luck 

[D._Frederick]

Another thing to check on a loader is the play/wear in the pins and bushings on the loader arms and cylinders. I have seen them with a 1/2inch of slop.

Also look to see if the loader arms have been broken and welded.

[Minnesota_boy]

All good advice on the loader, but before you buy the loader or have the advice scare you away, go price  a new loader, then figure out the jobs that you could use this one for and how long it would take to get your $500 worth from it.  I'll bet you'll be having your neighbor over to make it fit real soon.  I don't use the loader tractor enough to justify keeping it as an extra tractor, but as soon as I sell that tractor, I'm buying another loader for the tractor that I use regularly because there are some jobs that just demand a loader.

[isassi]

Have you guys ever noticed??...when you get a tool or tractor, you wonder what you would do without it? I can't imagine life without my backhoe...or bobcat...or scissor lift..or lull high lift...and so on and so on. But I did have a life without them and if I wasn't in contruction, I would have near as many if any.  :D

[Ironwood]

I need to see a photo. I have had several old loaders on tractors. The latest upgrade is below. I bought it form a guy 2 hours away. $500 bucks. It is a "walk thru" which was an upgrade for me. Try to get a photo. Mine have always has external pumps, Vickers ect.....run off the engine crank at the front.




                         Reid