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Logosol PH260 Owner/Operators thread

Started by thechknhwk, September 15, 2015, 03:37:59 AM

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thechknhwk

There seem to be several owners and or operators here, but not much chit chat on the machine.  Please respond if you are an owner or operator.  Perhaps we can keep a collaborative thread of tips, tricks, and fixes as well as questions and answers.

I bought a used PH260 single phase unit that was setup to run v-groove.  I have run a couple thousand feet of v-grooved white pine and western red cedar through it.  It seems to work well most of the time.

I do have an issue with the left side cutter head (from infeed side) that likes to quit spinning and jam up the works.  It seems to happen more when I am running 8" blanks.  I should take a picture as there is a board jammed in it right now.

Aside from the v-groove I plan to run ship lap and flooring through the machine for my personal use.  It has currently netted me 2 paying jobs.

Anyways, thanks for reading and please respond.

jdtuttle

I also have a used PH260. It's been a good machine, the only problem I had so far is the chain broke on the power feed. It was a quick fix. I have 2 dust collectors on it & that helps with dust removal. My machine paid for itself in a couple years. I make custom moldings for renovation jobs & wood flooring and all the typical moldings.
Have a great day

thechknhwk

Here is the photo of my stuck board.  The side cutterhead on the top of the photo is the one that stopped.  I think they need a sharpening or just replaced.


PC-Urban-Sawyer

Yikes!

Well you were humming along, taking a FULL bite on both sides and encountered a MAJOR knot which caused that cutter to say HMMMMMMM think I'll rest for a while...

Seriously, the change in cutting load from the softer knot free section to that large but solid knot must have done the number on things. Hope you can get it freed up and everything is undamaged.

Herb

beenthere

But for sure, sharpen the knives.   ;)
Many benefits from sharp tools, no matter what the task.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

scsmith42

Looks to me like the combination of the depth of cut and the fact that it hit a knot is what stopped it.  You might want to size your blanks so that there is only 1/8" to 3/16 of excess wood that has to be removed beyond the finished board edge.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

bond-lumber

I have a new to me (used 260) that i have just started using after some repairs that needed to be made after some shipping damage (while in transit to my shop).  I have only run doug fir blanks for flooring (now about 5k lineal feet of 1x6.  My first issue was the feed works stalling, that turned out to be a worn out drive motor that would over heat (replaced that last week and now seem to be working well).  I have never attempted to cut as much material as you are with your side cutters, that looks to be a healthy bite to me!!!
Good luck!
Mobile Dimension, Newman 8b, Logosol 260

never finished

 My 260 would report me for abuse if I took off that much with a side cutter. I have learned the hard way with the 260 just like everything else I do. It is a finish machine. Get your material as close to the rite size as you can and it will do a good job. If not it will make you cuss A LOT VERY LOUDLY!   

thechknhwk

Anyone ever try spiral cutter heads for the top and bottom?  Seems like it would be much easier on the planer motors, but it would make it difficult to switch over to molding profiles.  I'm not totally sure, but I don't really see doing anything except tongue and groove profiles with it though.

https://shelixheads.com/SHELIX-heads_for_Planers/SHELIX_Heads_for_Planers_by_LOGOSOL/SHELIX_for_logosol_12_inch_Planer_%28P260_COMBO_%28BOTTOM%29%29

Brad_S.

Quote from: scsmith42 on September 19, 2015, 09:41:56 AM
You might want to size your blanks so that there is only 1/8" to 3/16 of excess wood that has to be removed beyond the finished board edge.
I own one too but use it sparingly. I agree with the above! IMO, you are asking way too much of it to hog that much wood off!
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

thechknhwk

Where do you guys buy your side cutter knives?

steve marek

I would like to see one in action does anyone in Wisconsin  have one I could see runing



WM LT40HD logrite ach 718 woodmaster timber framing tools 3000 ford tractor 359 395 husky chainsaw woodmizer e50 single blade edger woodmizer 260 moulder 2538 mahindra tractor kd 250 kiln

jdtuttle

QuoteWhere do you guys buy your side cutter knives?
I buy custom & standard knives from this company. Good communication and very fast service.
www.moldingknives.com/
Have a great day

thechknhwk

I ordered some knives from them but they seemed awful expensive.  Like $170+ for a set of 4.  I got a set of ship lap and a v-groove profile.  unbeknownst to me the v-groove profile was different from the wmoore profile the previous owner had and would not work together.

scsmith42

Quote from: thechknhwk on December 05, 2015, 10:16:28 AM
Where do you guys buy your side cutter knives?

W. Moore Profiles is where I bought mine.  Great folks.  Typically side cutter knives are around 80 bucks a pair.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

thechknhwk

Ok next question, where do you measure for your blank size inside the machine?  I have a picture below, but since I switched to measuring further back behind the first side cutter.  Neither one seems to be very effective.  Its like I need to measure in one of the two places and then add at least a quarter inch.  Is there some accurate intelligent way to do it?


Brad_S.

I know what width size I want my finished product (plus the tongue width if it is T&G). I then just add 1/2" to 3/4" tops to that width to figure what size blank to use. When setting up, I roughly measure from the deepest part of the profile knives on each head to get a rough setup then send a couple short trial blanks through and adjust the second side cutter to get the finished width I am looking for.
I also pre-plane the blanks to a uniform thickness as well.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

jdtuttle

What to charge for making flooring, starting with random width rough sawn. Here are the steps I do.
1. Skip plane everything to the same thickness
2. Straight line one side
3. Gang saw to width
4. Run through Logosol PH260 to finished product.
I've been charging .60 per lineal foot. Is that to low, too much or just right.
What are you guys charging?
Jim
Have a great day

thechknhwk

First, .15/bf to plane one side, then .09/lf to straight line one side, another .09/lf to rip to size, then .35/bf to run it through the logosol.  I don't know what that adds up to in your circumstances,  and I haven't done a ton but that's what I charge.  If i have to plane the other side, due to excessive thickness I'd charge another .15/bf. Hope that helps.

We just ran 140 12' ash 1x8s today into ship lap siding.  Got a few stuck but it ran pretty well.

scsmith42

One thing that I've discovered is that the top feed rollers slip much less if they are biting into rough sawn wood as opposed to planed wood.

Normally I like to take off equal amounts per side when skip planing, but when I presize a blank for the moulder I'll try to leave one face rough sawn.  Then, in the moulder I'll set it up so that it removes more material from the rough sawn side so that between the pre-sizing and the moulding, my boards have about the same amount removed from each side.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

bond-lumber

I just did 7000 lineal of 1x5 (blanks) doug fir T&G panelling for a contractor friend this weekend...the finished product turned out to be 13/16"x 4 7/16 (i had moulding knives make new cutters that have a 1/4 deep x 1/4 wide relief that when the T&G are put together they have a 1/4" 'channel' ... i wore out the top cutter belt and just ordered a new one!  All in all it went well, I charged 40cents per lineal!  I love this machine but we certainly have to put good material through to get good out the stern end!!!
Mobile Dimension, Newman 8b, Logosol 260

thechknhwk

The last batch I ran was ash that wasn't necessarily the driest, but I first planed the worst side of all the boards down to ~.98", but 3 of the first 6 boards got stuck with the top planer head locking up, so I had to run them all through the planer again.  This time down to ~.91" and then all was well.

https://youtu.be/5GLydexiJvk

thechknhwk

I am making flooring blanks, anyone happen to know what the shortest piece you can run through the logosol is.  I checked the manual briefly, but did not see it.

jdtuttle

When setting up I run 2' blanks to check the cuts. I run mine a little faster than what you show in your video. I see you also disconnected the annoying safety switch that's on the door too.  ;D
Have a great day

thechknhwk

I have the speed turned all the way down to run that ship lap, it's taking 1/2" out on the half lap plus truing the sides, so if you're going any faster when it hits a knot the whole works stops up.  I should be able to run my flooring a little faster.

I was asking because I have some flooring blanks that are around a foot long and I didn't want them to get jammed up if I try to run them through.

jdtuttle

Yep taking 1/2" requires very slow speed. I looked on line & in the owners manual but didn't see anything on minimum length. I have run as short as 18" with no problem. Not sure about 12". it may be ok if you keep a continuous feed butting them tight end to end as you feed. Be careful if you do try.
Have a great day

thechknhwk

Ok, I made a boo-boo.  I was attempting to adjust the width on the logosol 260 out wide enough to run some 9" blanks for shiplap, and it never reached the 9" goal and stopped adjusting out.  Then when I went to turn it back in to move on to my 7" blanks it seemed like it took a bit for it to catch a thread to come back in, and then eventually the set screw that holds the width adjustment handle on the screw got jammed in the molder frame.  I had to take it apart and unstick it, then I turned the adjustment screw with some channel locks to get it back in place, but now when I turn the adjuster the whole screw moves in and out eventually getting me to the point that it will bind up on the handle set screw again.  And then the real problem the width will no longer adjust out.  It's like when I cranked it out too far a jam nut or something that holds the screw and forces the motor/knife out fell off or something??  If anyone has had this apart and could help me out I would greatly appreciate it.  I don't really want to tear the whole molder apart if I can help it.  I'm also going to call bailey's.  Thanks.

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