Squaring Ends

[loggerman1959]

I am in the process of building a log cabin , I have milled my own D logs with a Hudsons band mill . My question is , how does everyone square their butt ends to fit tight on wall joints ? I was considering purchasing one of those Prazi attachments for worm drive circular saws , has anyone had any luck with them ? My logs are 6" thick and 7" wide . Any input would be appreciated .

[Jim_Rogers]

I own a Prazi beam cutter chain saw bar that attaches to a worm drive saw. But it is a chain saw cut. It may not be smooth enough for a butt joint in a log cabin.
I have never build a log cabin so I don't know if it will work or not. It does cut fairly square but the bar can flex and it may not be square enough as well.

Good luck with your project.

Jim Rogers

[thechknhwk]

Makita beam saw.

[glenn molenaar]

I have used both the Prazi and Makita. The Makita is the only way to go.

[scouter Joe]

I have a Makita beam saw and find the guard  is a real pain . It hangs onto the edge of the timber and does not go up smoothly . I have to hold the guard   to make a cut without binding and this is very  difficult to do . Is this just my saw or do you have problems with yours as well . Any ideas on how to make it better . scouter Joe

[Larch]

Portable band saw is the only way to go.  However they are expensive.  The cheapest, the Oliver 12M, cuts 8" and is $2500.  They go up from there.  Maybe you can find a used one.  They pay for themselves over time because they are so nice.  The Makita beam saw is like a caveman's club in comparison. 

Another option is to put a floor model bandsaw on a dolly and move it over your logs. 

[isawlogs]

  Depending on how much budget you have...

Here id how I have done it.

  A square, pencil, utility knife (olfa), chainsaw and a belt sander.

  Mark your line around the beam with pencil, make a 1/8th cut on the line with the utility knife, this will stop any chips and slivers and make a nice clean cut, cut as close as you can to your line with chainsaw, beltsand to finish.

  Yes it is time consuming but cheap....  I have access to a few big Makita saws that make life easier. Not all have access or the budget to buy one.  ;)

[thechknhwk]

I have a Makita beam saw and find the guard  is a real pain . It hangs onto the edge of the timber and does not go up smoothly . I have to hold the guard   to make a cut without binding and this is very  difficult to do . Is this just my saw or do you have problems with yours as well . Any ideas on how to make it better . scouter Joe

Not the safe method, but I tied the guard up on mine.  I tried the prazi saw, but I thought it was kind of a joke & returned it.

[scouter Joe]

I've thought about tying the guard up but then came to my senses . I'm haywire enough without risking a cut to my self instead of the timber I'm trying to cut . Scouter Joe

[Fundyheather]

for cheap quick and dirty - pencil, square, knife as stated above; then circular saw both short sides, finish through with carpenter's saw.  Hog out any centerline protrusion with the circular saw, guard held up swiping the cut sideways.

Yea, you need the saw set square, and yes you will 'ruin' some cuts.  Mistakes run your timber short but no problem.  That's why you have windows, doors, gable ends and a wood pile.

They used to say ' if you cut too short we can always splice it, but if you cut too long I don't know what the % we will do.'
 

[loggerman1959]

Sounds like the prazi is not the way to go . Guess ill go with the double cut circular saw method , as I cant dump 800 dollars on a Makita . Thanks for the input everyone .

[Darrel]

Sounds like the prazi is not the way to go . Guess ill go with the double cut circular saw method , as I cant dump 800 dollars on a Makita . Thanks for the input everyone .

I have found this method to be very efficient. Mark the log all around, zip zip with the circular saw and a few strokes with the hand saw and you re done.  You'll get to the point where you be able to complete the operation in about a minute flat. And safely too. 

[Fundyheather]

Darrel, you're probably right that 4 cuts are better than 2.

If the log size allows it, a refinement of the 2 cut approach is to do both cuts 'down the wall' so the error sides are buried in the top and bottom chinking.

(But I prefer this joint for a circular saw and chisel.  Joint locks, less draft through if the adjacent 'pass log' shrinks away.  Does slow you down as compared to pass log construction.  Haven't tried it with D logs yet, don't at all know if this could be a choice for this project.)

[S.Hyland]

One of my main shop saw is actually a new Milwaukee ( the old ones were no good) 10 1/4" saw. Less than half the price of a Makita 16" and not nearly so unwieldy. 3 3/4" cut depth is nice upgrade for the money.

[Darrel]

Fundyheather, that looks like a strong joint that would be pretty quick cut and fit.

[thechknhwk]

$724 on Amazon prime if that makes any difference.