Bad idle

[cliffreaves]

An old problem has gotten way worse with my 395xp.   When I first got it the chain would run just a little while idling and it has progressively gotten worse. I've already tried adjusting the idle multiple times to no avail.   It's so bad now that it's almost full speed as soon as I start it up.   I had been using the chain brake every time I finished a cut, but I can tell it's hard on the brake to keep that much speed stopped.  I'm guessing I have an air leak or a bad part somewhere. I recently replaced the pull cord and it has been worse since then.  I'm still able to mill with it so I don't think it's lost much compression if any.  Any advice on where to start with this before  I take it to a dealer?  Thanks in advance!

[dougand3]

May be an air leak. Some simple things to check: 4 bolts hold jug on securely. 2 Carb bolts on securely. Gaskets around intake are in good shape. Impulse line in good shape and not cracked or loose fit.
Can't see pull cord change having any bearing.
Have you tried Idle screw turned CCW so the taper doesn't even touch throttle link plate? (Lowest possible idle)
Could be running REAL lean and L and H screws need richening.

[beauj5]

I'm with dougand3. I'd bet you have an air leak in it somewhere, and it sounds like it's getting worse. I'd stop milling with it, in case it is in the jugs, then, like dougand3 said, check it all out. My 660 did that (not to that extent) and it had little hairline cracks in the fuel pickup line.

[ladylake]

 Most likely bad seals, get it fixed before it burns up.   Steve

[HolmenTree]

Just throwing this out there. My 395 did the same thing while milling with the Alaskan.  The carb bolts shook loose.

[OH logger]

are all 3 clutch springs still intact?

[cliffreaves]

I thought i was going to have time to work on the saw tonight, but I worked late instead.   Hopefully I'll be able to open it up tomorrow night.  Thanks for the ideas so far.

[ladylake]

  If it will idle at all spray some WD40 at the seals, carb mount , base gasket or any place it might leak air  being careful so you don't get any in the carb inlet.  If it slows down in any of those areas that where the air leak is.  As mentioned check the carb screws first.  Steve

[cliffreaves]

Alright, I'm bad with chainsaw terminology so someone will probably need to translate if they understand.   I figured out that the problem was the latch that pushes against the throttle when the choke is applied was stuck.  It was simply not allowing the throttle to go all the way down into idling position.  Once I loosened it and sprayed it with some dry lubricant, I reset the idle and it works well now.  The chain still spins a little but it's at least back to where it started.

[dougand3]

Good it's running better. You want idle screw where chain BARELY doesn't spin at idle. Sounds like the High Idle plate on the choke wasn't releasing. Sometimes they do hold High Idle too aggressively. I've had to file the plate, so it would release easier on throttle up.