drying thick turning blanks

[Dan_Shade]

is there an "easy" or "good" way to dry thick stock?  I'm thinking 4x4 or 5x5 for making large turned spindles, like bed posts or lamps, etc....

[zopi]

I don't remember the details, but I have heard of boiling them then drying...supposed to go quicker...but you can only dry it just so fast....

[pigman]

The best way for you would be to buy a DH kiln. ;)

[WDH]

The mistake that I have made in drying thick stock like 5"x 12" beams is that I did not sticker them like boards but rather stood them up under cover on the side of the barn.  I have realized that they dry too fast exposed like this and want to split and check real bad.  I have had better luck when they were stickered just like boards with a layer of boards under the beams on the bottom and at least one full layer, preferably more, on top.  The sandwiching layers of green lumber keep the humidity up on both sides of the beams which helps slow down the drying.  Several layers of green boards below and several layers above the beams are best.  Also, I have "double" and even "triple" anchorsealed the ends.  Anchorseal the ends, then a day or so later, add another coat, and then a day or two later, coat once more again.

[Dan_Shade]

what's the thickest that can be dried in a DH kiln?

[shelbycharger400]

well..here is a note.. i have 3 in thick boxelder.
it was slabbed last june, stickered, stacked in the shed,  8 slabs that were 17in to 27in wide
2,  1 in wratchet straps as tight as i could.   2 times before last winter...tightened
tarp was placed over them loosely
december. brought one home.    brought it in the basement, woke up to booms and loud cracks
about 2 weeks ago, brought rest of them home.  used bleach and borax, scrubbed slabs, hosed them off,  left them to dry off leaning on the garage, and checked, shelled and cracked, a LOT! 
reading, :P  it takes about a year PER inch to air dry correctly :'(
3 of the widest have shelling, and a few cracks, but very little warpage, and came from the center of the log, and have the most character
mine was end sealed with several cans of rattle can paint.     rattle can dosnt work,  i since switched to latex paint, one to 2 coats, DONE

latex lets some moisture out, but slows it way down, from my own experiments with oak, cherry will bleed through.

[Dan_Shade]

i've tried different types of paints, none of it works as well as anchorseal.

I'm sold on that stuff, wouldn't use anything else.

[zopi]

Here ya go.

http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/boiling-green-wood.html

[Kansas]

We occasionally dry thick lumber, such as 4x4 walnut. We don't get in a hurry. Air dry stickered, under a roof and a loose tarp covering at least the top and one side. Its been our experience that if you try to dry thick walnut with a DH kiln, you don't get to the core.  We might pop it in the kiln after a year or so. Most of our regulars know we have them out back air drying, and tend to take them before we get to the kiln.

We don't try and dry thicker than 2 inch oak. We do the same thing with that with covering. We do pop that in the kiln. Main reason for air drying oak mostly covered with a tarp is trying to slow down the moisture release rate that results in checked lumber.

Basswood is different. Just let it air dry. It may never make the kiln. Carvers don't seem that concerned with it. We don't cover basswood, just put it under the roof.