iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

black spruce log won't cut

Started by 47sawdust, May 24, 2015, 08:24:14 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

47sawdust

So.....I've been sawing a mixture of Vermont softwoods,black spruce and balsam.Running 4°blades and everything is going fine..I was feeling real good because all I have on my land is black spruce,with a little pine,hemlock,and balsam.The very last log in the yard was what appeared to be a nice 15'' spruce.Entering the log from the butt end the first cut was wavy,put on a new blade same results,adjusted the drive belt tension,1st cut wavy,2nd cut blade dives and binds.The mill has less than 500 hrs.
I'm curious why things would go from very good to very bad so fast.I'm off to cut a more friendly tree to see if that helps.
Anybody had a log that wouldn't cut?
Thanks and Happy Memorial Day,
Mick
U.S.Army 1966-1968 riot control duty
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

Logger003

No expierence with a band mill but black spruce on the circle saw causes all kinds of trouble to. It likes to pinch the saw blade, it seems like there's a lot of stress in that type of wood

red

Yes try another log.  . Some have good luck with pinesol in the water
Also HP and feed rate
Honor the Fallen Thank the Living

justallan1

If it's anything like spruce out of the PNW it's mainly a matter of soft wood and hard knots.
When running a re-saw in commercial cut-up mills I'd get SPF units of wood and found it was actually faster to set the spruce aside as I would find them, run the pine and fir, turn my feed rollers down and run the spruce nice and slow. It cut down production a little, but was the only way to make it sellable.

drobertson

This might be a pain in the rear, but if at all possible pull the log off and flip it around, coming in on the small end,  I've seen issues with some larger pine when coming in from the butt end, mainly humping up, then leveling out,,  I've only sawed a few Norwegian Spruce, these were a little bigger but not by much, yard trees, they sawed out pretty good, the wood seemed very hairy though, not a smooth finish like you get from most pine.  The knots were no problem, but not near as pretty as I was hoping for. 
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

GAB

Quote from: 47sawdust on May 24, 2015, 08:24:14 AM
So.....I've been sawing a mixture of Vermont softwoods,black spruce and balsam.Running 4°blades and everything is going fine..I was feeling real good because all I have on my land is black spruce,with a little pine,hemlock,and balsam.The very last log in the yard was what appeared to be a nice 15'' spruce.Entering the log from the butt end the first cut was wavy,put on a new blade same results,adjusted the drive belt tension,1st cut wavy,2nd cut blade dives and binds.The mill has less than 500 hrs.
I'm curious why things would go from very good to very bad so fast.I'm off to cut a more friendly tree to see if that helps.
Anybody had a log that wouldn't cut?
Thanks and Happy Memorial Day,
Mick
U.S.Army 1966-1968 riot control duty

Dear Fellow Vermonter:
You have pretty much described my experience with Colorado Blue Spruce.
I recently posted asking for suggestions on how to saw it because of my past experience with CBS.  Just picked up 5 decent 12 foot logs.
As an aside I've sawed some Norwegian spruce, and red spruce with no problems.  I usually saw going into the small end because of the way branches grow on trees.
Based on the suggestions I received to my post and from what I've read on the forum I'm going to take a 9* 7/8" tooth spacing blade and reset it for .030" to a side and try that.
If that does not work I may try to get a 10* to 13* blade with a 3/4" tooth spacing to try.

You wrote: "U.S.Army 1966-1968 riot control duty"
Were you in Detroit during the riots with Sgt/Mjr. Kidwell?
Gerald  (West & North of you)
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

47sawdust

GAB,
Thanks for your reply as well as the others.Fresh pine logs are on the log deck,but BBQ takes precedent this afternoon.
I was in Washington D.C.for the race riots after MLK was killed,also at the Pentagon for the 1967 peace demonstration.It was a very strange time in our nations history.

I am going to turn the problem log end for end as suggested and see what happens.All advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mick
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

VTwoodworker

Hi Mick,

First thanks for your service and Happy Memorial Day to you and all Vets on this board.

Second I have cut quite a bit of spruce in the last few years and I have come across a few like you describe.  At times the blades just want to follow the grain particularly when the growth rings are large.  I have had the best luck cutting spruce with WM double hard 0.045" 9 deg blades.  Stop over and I will let you have one to try on that log.

Gotta love milling spruce.

Wayne

Ox

I must say that I seldom hear anything good when talking about milling spruce.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

barbender

I've had spruce make waves, but the only time I've ever had a blade dive bad enough to bind was when I got pitch built up on the blade really heavy.
Too many irons in the fire

Thank You Sponsors!