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Anyone Familiar with Husqvarna 345R used as Brush Cutter ???

Started by g_man, July 28, 2020, 07:50:14 AM

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g_man

I have a lot of finger diameter glossy buckthorn I want to cut and I saw a used 345R on CL. I am wondering what people have to say about it. Thank you. I can never beat the stuff but hold it in check by cutting. I am getting tired of the hand loppers chainsaw and wonder about a brush saw.
gg

Ed_K

I've had one for yrs. It's still running good. Few yrs back when they changed the gas formula the gas hose rotted but I replaced it. Also it originally came with clips in the clutch that kept breaking I changed them to springs an they are still in it. I've mowed many acres with it, had one job doing tsi work where I cut 15 acres of 1"-2" beech saplings I use solid skill saw blades with carbide tips so if you hit a rock you can keep going an change out on the next fill up.
Ed K

LeeB

'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

sawguy21

I don't recommend skilsaw blades, they are not designed to run at trimmer speeds. Some years ago a customer had one grenade when he hit a rock, if it wasn't for the fallers pants he would have been seriously injured. As it was he was cut up pretty bad. BTW get the professional harness, the one that comes with the machine is not comfortable.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

lxskllr

I thought that number looked familiar. It's very similar to the 545FR I have. They're a huge improvement over chainsawing stuff, especially if you have a lot of brush involved. Highly recommended for land clearing.

g_man

Thanks for the replys. Been wanting one of these for a long time. So I went and bought it. It has some years on it but looks hardly used. Has a Desmarais sticker on it and they've been gone a while.  Has a box of tools, 3 guards, a circular toothed blade, a quad tooth blade, and a string trimmer head. Just starting to get it all figured out. I'm going to set it up with the circular saw. No more loppers and chainsaw !!!

gg

lxskllr

If the trees you're cutting really are finger diameter, you might want to try the 3 pronged blade as long as it isn't the really thin kind. I use that and a 2 toothed mulching blade for most of the stuff I cut. They don't have to be really sharp, so if you hit some rocks it's no big deal, and they take care of stuff like blackberries better than the circular blades.

Also, I *highly* recommend full chainsaw gear(chaps, helmet, face guard, ear protection, and heavy gloves) while running it. I've had stuff thrown at me hard enough to cause pain hitting the chainsaw chaps, and lots of stuff bouncing of the face shield, and hitting hands. It happens just infrequently enough to think "I don't feel like gearing up for this. It should be ok" where you might think that, and end up getting pretty hurt.

g_man

10-4 on the PPE. I am a believer in that. Sounds like I should try the rough 4 tooth blade. There is a lot of smaller stuff too. Thanks for the advise.

gg

47sawdust

Gordon,
I have a 132r. It is an early 90's vintage , perhaps a little smaller than yours.It has seen a lot of service.The 4 tooth works best for me on berry canes and hardhack.The circular style blade is what I use on saplings. The inclination is too always try to cut something a little bigger but the mine is happiest with 2'' and smaller.
I made a small jig to hold blades in a vise for sharpening.I also only use the blades designed by Husqvarna.
That looks like a nice saw.I had a passing interest.I am sure you will be happy.I get parts from Leo's Small Engine in Morrisville.
Best regards,
Mick
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

thecfarm

I suppose you have that here and there though out your woods? If in one place just mow it when ever it comes up. I think it would die after a while. Or is it some relation to bittersweet?   :o
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Ed_K

If your in heavy weeds an grass the 4 blade is better. One thing to remember is don't wack into stuff that's bigger than 2". the curved head on them will crack their over $200. for a new one.
Ed K

celliott

Yep, the right blade is key, and getting a good harness is also critical.
I have a 265rx, it's awesome in small woody plants and saplings up to 4-5" but really shines in the 1-2" stuff. There is a learning curve to operating them, but once you get the hang of it, beats a chainsaw for sure.
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

John Mc

Quote from: g_man on July 28, 2020, 08:06:36 PM
10-4 on the PPE. I am a believer in that. Sounds like I should try the rough 4 tooth blade. There is a lot of smaller stuff too. Thanks for the advise.

gg
Gordon:
Buckthorn is tough stuff. I've cut a lot of it, and have found that if you get much over 1/2" to 3/4" diameter the blade that looks like a circular saw blade works best on it. Yes, you can cut larger Buckthorn than that with the 3 or 4 tooth blade, but you are really beating on the equipment to make it work. For a softwood like Pine, you can push the diameter a bit larger.
As far as model of blades go, the Maxi blade is a whole lot better than the "Scarlet" blade that ships with these, though they both do look like a circular saw blade.
I'll also second Sawguy 21's recommendation: Do NOT use a skillsaw blade. They are not rated for the RPMs at which these brush saws turn, and the blades are brittle. Hit something you shouldn't, and you will have shrapnel flying at high speeds.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

g_man

Thanks John. It has the Maxi blade, unused by the looks. Better luck than usual for me maybe. It came with the string trimmer head on it and so far have just played with that. I have cut enough buckthorn with a chainsaw so I had my doubts that 4 tooth blade would be a smooth quick cut but I'll try both just to see.

gg

John Mc

That 4 tooth blade basically beats or chews the Buckthorn to death, rather than cutting it. It will work, and I've done some 3/4"+ stems that way, but it is hard on the equipment, and it takes a while. Mine is an older Jonsered model which has less power than the Husqvarna 345R, so you may have better luck, but the 4 blade is still a lot of impact. Picture beating that Buckthorn repeatedly with a dull machete vs. running it through your table saw.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

celliott

Glad you have the good maxi blade.
One tip on those, keeping the set in the teeth is critical to have them cut good. It's not like a chainsaw where you touch the rakers up every few filings. 
The blades do sharpen up pretty easy. Do you have the file guide/set tool? If not I definitely recommend it.
What size arbor is on your saw? I bought a few wrong size blades one time, I have no use for. Guessing it's the same as my 265rx being that they're both husky's but if they fit you're welcome to them.
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

John Mc

Both the bore and the OD can vary from one saw model to another.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

g_man

Quote from: celliott on August 01, 2020, 08:38:07 AM
Glad you have the good maxi blade.
One tip on those, keeping the set in the teeth is critical to have them cut good. It's not like a chainsaw where you touch the rakers up every few filings.
The blades do sharpen up pretty easy. Do you have the file guide/set tool? If not I definitely recommend it.
What size arbor is on your saw? I bought a few wrong size blades one time, I have no use for. Guessing it's the same as my 265rx being that they're both husky's but if they fit you're welcome to them.
I do not have the file guide/set tool but there is an instruction sheet so I see what they are. Thanks for the tip ! Do you know any where fairly local who would stock that tool or do I have to order it ? The blades I need are 8" X 1". If that is what you have we can work something out I can't just take them I was going to buy a spare anyway. 
gg

celliott

I haven't seen the good blades in any local dealers yet. I ordered my guide and blades online.
I think I found a clearance deal at some point, got all excited and didn't verify the bore size of the blades. My 265rx takes 9", 24 tooth, 20mm bore.
I have 5 brand new Oregon, 8", 22 tooth, 25mm bore (that's what the package says).
John, if these fit your saw you're welcome to one or two as well. 
I've had them so long I don't remember what I paid, I know it was a heck of a deal. I'll never use them. I'd be happy with a $10 each donation to the forum.
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

John Mc

I would be interested in a couple. They are not sold in my area. I've bought twice from Amazon. The cheapest listing is currently $21 for an Oregon-labeled Maxi blade (another Oregon listing shows $32, and a Husqvarna listing at $40). I have purchased both Husqvarna and Oregon in the past. They appear identical other than labeling. Both are made in Sweden.

I'll PM you my address and make a $10 donation for each one you send.

Thanks!

John
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

g_man

Quote from: celliott on August 01, 2020, 11:21:41 AM
I haven't seen the good blades in any local dealers yet. I ordered my guide and blades online.
I think I found a clearance deal at some point, got all excited and didn't verify the bore size of the blades. My 265rx takes 9", 24 tooth, 20mm bore.
I have 5 brand new Oregon, 8", 22 tooth, 25mm bore (that's what the package says).
John, if these fit your saw you're welcome to one or two as well.
I've had them so long I don't remember what I paid, I know it was a heck of a deal. I'll never use them. I'd be happy with a $10 each donation to the forum.
Thank you Chris, I will gladly take the other 3 blades you have. Good idea on the FF donation. I should be able to ream them out 12 or 15 thou so they fit my 1" arbor which mikes at .996". Look for a PM.
gg

John Mc

Quote from: g_man on August 01, 2020, 05:16:02 PM
Quote from: celliott on August 01, 2020, 11:21:41 AM
I haven't seen the good blades in any local dealers yet. I ordered my guide and blades online.
I think I found a clearance deal at some point, got all excited and didn't verify the bore size of the blades. My 265rx takes 9", 24 tooth, 20mm bore.
I have 5 brand new Oregon, 8", 22 tooth, 25mm bore (that's what the package says).
John, if these fit your saw you're welcome to one or two as well.
I've had them so long I don't remember what I paid, I know it was a heck of a deal. I'll never use them. I'd be happy with a $10 each donation to the forum.
Thank you Chris, I will gladly take the other 3 blades you have. Good idea on the FF donation. I should be able to ream them out 12 or 15 thou so they fit my 1" arbor which mikes at .996". Look for a PM.
gg
There should be no need to ream them out, I believe they sell the same blade as 1" arbor or 25mm.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

lxskllr


celliott

Yes, 25mm bore calls for a 1" arbor, and my 20mm blades fit the 3/4" arbor on my 265rx.
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

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