Anchorseal

[Ed_K]

Get a window screen and filter it. You'll find chunks of dried wax coming out of a 5 gal bucket  >:( :(.

[Walnut Beast]

Well after jacking around with the sprayer and ready to throw it against the wall after cutting it down with water and then dumping it out and trying straight water with no luck that this boy needs to call them it doesn't work. That's probably why they never called me back when I called them and told them it wouldn't spray and never got the call back😂. So this kid got to thinking about my various hand sprayers. So I went through them and and knew what one I was after. It works fantastic!!!! So for you boys and girls looking to apply it these work absolutely AWSOME!! I should have thought about that before I ordered the sprayer 😂

 

 

[YellowHammer]

It wouldn't even spray water?

[Walnut Beast]

No 😂. It must be defective. I tried and even tried flushing a few times 

[YellowHammer]

I hope they give you your money back.  I filmed a video of me using the back pack sprayer today, and I could hear the Anchorseal impacting the logs with the camera it was spraying so hard.  

[Walnut Beast]

Looking forward to the video 💪. If they replace it with one that works that would be ok but you think by now that they would be canvassing all these different sprayers for one that does a little better or more durable. But it seems yours has been running quite awhile 

[YellowHammer]

I just replaced mine with a new one after maybe 5 years because I ran over the spray wand with the 4 wheeler and kind of broke it into a couple pieces.  Oops.  Mines a Chapin Heavy Duty backpack pump up.  

[petefrom bearswamp]

Speaking of Anchorseal, I have probably 4 to 4-1/2 gallons left over from my sawing days.
Free to a good home if anyone is in my area.
PM me at your convenience.

[doc henderson]

Pete that is practical and nice.  i am sure there is someone in your area that can use it. In my Albany days, I went Kayaking near you in a river that gets turned on at 9 am and off at 5 for hydro.  we went down a mile or so, and carried the boats back up the river.  

[tyofwa]

I had troubles drying his wood in my kiln until I cut the painted ends off as it went in the kiln. His wood dried better and faster after that.
I believe the moisutre needs to come out the ends in the vacumm kiln. Anchor seal melts off in the heat and I find nothing on the ends when I pull the wood out of the kiln.

Hate to thread jack, but super curious about end grain sealing for wood in the iDry.  Ive been struggling to keep wood movement to a minimum.  Last load I sealed the ends of all slabs with Titebond III (all I had on hand).  Added end framing straps to reduce checking, and lowered temps.  Load looks better, but now you got me thinking I might have turned too many knobs at the same time.  



Should I avoid end sealing for kiln drying?  

[YellowHammer]

Since moisture essential "boils" out of the wood on a vacuum kiln, that make sense to me.  However, end sealing is useful during the air drying steps leading to the vacuum kiln, where a different mechanism takes place for drying.

Vacuum drying cycles are known for producing exaggerating cup, and such results were published decades ago in research papers.  Strapping loads as shown in the picture constrains the ends of the stacks, but not the center, unless steel is used for the top and bottom strap bunks.  I can see the top wooden bunk curving in the photo, so that is actually encouraging cup. Also, individual straps, place down the length of a stack, doesn't reduce twist as they are not continuously constrained, as a layer of inflexible concrete of granite would be.  

Uniformly distributed weight, and lots of it, is the surest way to not only reduce bow and curve in wood, but also straighten it, depending on its thickness and the amount of weight.   

[tyofwa]

Should I ditch the straps?  If so, what do you recommend for adding pressure to the stack?  I can build a tube frame in a 12' x 4' footprint.  Could fill that with granite / concrete / steel.  What weight target should I have?  My forklift has a 5k capacity, shoot for that?  

Thanks, appreciate your input.  

[doc henderson]

I think "more is more" to a point.  you have taken into account the limit of your equipment.  If you want to use the straps, you need to have a stack more uniform in width and use a heavy rigid board top and bottom at each strap.  did this wood have end cracks before the drying and is that why the metal straps?  if so, you may be fine with fresh sawn, air dried stuff that is solid.

[Stephen1]

I had troubles drying his wood in my kiln until I cut the painted ends off as it went in the kiln. His wood dried better and faster after that.
I believe the moisutre needs to come out the ends in the vacumm kiln. Anchor seal melts off in the heat and I find nothing on the ends when I pull the wood out of the kiln.

Hate to thread jack, but super curious about end grain sealing for wood in the iDry.  Ive been struggling to keep wood movement to a minimum.  Last load I sealed the ends of all slabs with Titebond III (all I had on hand).  Added end framing straps to reduce checking, and lowered temps.  Load looks better, but now you got me thinking I might have turned too many knobs at the same time.  



Should I avoid end sealing for kiln drying?  

I never avoid end sealing in the IDRY. I just will not appy anchorseal unless the logs or lumber are fresh cut. I find right off the sawmill and into the kiln do not need end sealling on most lumber, cherry and poplar is bad for cracking.

[YellowHammer]

I use 3,000+ lbs per stack of 800 bdft of uniformly distributed weight a nominal 4x8 pallet.  It makes a difference.  Think of a flower pressed between the pages of a book.