Watcha Makin'?

[aigheadish]

cat-ee-o

I was reading cashio!

[doc henderson]

Kitten coop!

[Tom K]

Unfortunately, I'm familiar with that term. My wife has been asking me for one for a few years now, and I've successfully pushed it off because of other projects. 

A few weeks ago she started asking about a 3 seasons room. The location she wants it is horrible because that's the side of the house all the utilities come in. While talking though how it would get built and how she would want it to look she mentioned that she would want a full foundation & concrete floor so no bugs can get in, OK I get that. Then she wants full insulated casement windows so we can actually use is early spring & late fall, well that makes sense also. After that it was if we are going that far we might as well add a mini split to heat and cool it. By now I'm thinking she wants a little more than what I would consider a 3 seasons room. Then she explained how she wants a continuous window sill that's 6-8" wide......that's when it finally clicked. She wants a large catio that she's calling a 3 seasons room....

It took some smooth talking, but I have successfully tabled that discussion......for now.

[okmulch]

So I have been working on this off and on for several months  my neighbor helped me and showed me how to pour epoxy  I still have the bottom piece to finish up  top is 32x60 inches  and is mounted on bar height Rite Legs
https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352869

[thecfarm]

That picture from the top looks great too!!!!!

[okmulch]

Thanks here is another view. 
https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=352872

[Larry]

Just another stool. The last thing to do before finishing is to put on my makers mark.

I burn heavy and deep. With my poor handwriting I think it will be evident to the owner a hundred years from now that it was made by a real human....and not a machine. I've used cool stamps and inlays for my maker mark in the past but I think I like this way the best.

[21incher]

Just another stool. The last thing to do before finishing is to put on my makers mark.

I burn heavy and deep. With my poor handwriting I think it will be evident to the owner a hundred years from now that it was made by a real human....and not a machine. I've used cool stamps and inlays for my maker mark in the past but I think I like this way the best.

I could take a picture of that, burn it identical with a laser in a minute and in 100 years it would look the same. That's how so many fakes are out there today . 
Hopefully you will post pictures when it is finished.  

[Larry]

That's impressive, I did not know......

[WV Sawmiller]

  Just piddling but decided to make a few more crates for future flea market sales and use around here. I found a couple of partially AD 8" tulip poplar boards, planed them smooth then cut them into 12-1/4" lengths, then cut a bunch of 18" long X 3/8" X 2" poplar lath type strips. I tried adding a couple of 1" diameter finger holes in the end of each board. I nailed the strips on to the end boards using 1.5" ring shank (dry wall?) nails and a dab of glue on each end.

[WV Sawmiller]

    Next I decided to make a bench out of my recently cut mystery wood (Elm?) so I cut and planed a 30" LE slab and bored 4 - 1.5" mortises with my auger. I cut 4 legs off of a 7' piece of 9/4 square stock, knocked the corners off on the legs on the table saw set at a 45 degree.

[WV Sawmiller]

  Continuing with my benches, I locked the legs in a vice and cut 3" long X 1.5" tenons, glued and drove them into the mortises, cut the excess off the top with a Japanese pull saw then put he bench on the mill and saw the  legs off at 17" for a finished bench. I may add metal wedges to tighten the tenons later but right now they feel tight.

[WV Sawmiller]

Final response/action was on the mill. Very simple and accurate.

[Brad_bb]

The legs are rigid enough and the band doesn't try to bend or flex the leg?

[doc henderson]

That is amazing.  I cannot believe you never told us about this before!  

[WV Sawmiller]

Brad,

  The legs I'm using are 9/4 square stock made into octagons. I have no problem with flex. Often when I saw through the leftover section of the legs (2-3 inches) will just ride on the band or usually fall of the back. At the workshop last year we made one and  Jake made everybody put on their PPE and take cover in case the leg ends turned into shrapnel. Nobody needed to do so but it didn't hurt to be ready.

Doc,

  May you discover your grandmother is working at Only Fans the next time you surf the internet! 

[tule peak timber]

I've spent the last two weeks developing a ghost silver-grey finish for oak with lots of trial and error. Even more samples from the last few days. It is the same old steel wool and vinegar formula with different carriers, barriers and topcoats for an outdoor table. Close to a hundred total?? I keep notes on the strengths, mixtures, temperatures, and different layers to develop a realistic looking greyed-out look that will have UV protection properties, shed water, red wine and pasta sauce. This has been a very challenging task! Also, a shot of one of the massive oak slabs comprising one of 4 benches around a very large oak table. The table itself is so large, we had to break it into 2 pieces in order to handle it. The one color sample submitted needs to be appealing first shot, first time, and preferably yesterday......ugh. Unfortunately I am not able to deal with the new photo editing software. :( Sorry

[doc henderson]

no worries.  you should consider publishing a book on epoxy and finishes.  bet I would buy a copy, preferably autographed!  

[tule peak timber]

trying again.

[doc henderson]

wow tough work.  It looks like distressed crappy wood.  congratulations!        

[tule peak timber]

A shot of the table pieces I'm working with.

[Larry]

That's what I call a mega slab!

The best color I've found for oak is fuming with industrial strength ammonia. Vary the time exposure to control intensity. I don't like the process due to the hazards of ammonia and the cost/short life of breathing masks.

I've been experimentally lately with a different process. Coating the oak with a baking soda paste does something similar to the wood. To vary the intensity one can pre-coat the wood with black tea which adds tannin to the wood. Also the length of time of the coats makes a difference.

A sample stick.

Top is black tea and baking soda. Middle is baking soda and bottom is nothing. All have a top coat of wipe on poly. It was interesting that the top and middle were totally grey until I applied the poly.

[doc henderson]

MAN.  WOW!  WOC.  all cap three letter words is all I can get out right now!  WOW

[tule peak timber]

Larry, that's one of the troubles I'm having applying a topcoat, let alone one with UV resistant properties. The UV additives in topcoats give everything a light purple hue. I have not tried ammonia, but the baking soda shows promise until you use any kind of solvent or water-based topcoat. My approach has been using the iron acetate with a fixer (water based) in the proper ratio as initial colouration, then a barrier coat, then a solvent coat, then light glazing with stains in a fixer coat, then a double topcoat of UV protectant. After this, a light burnishing with scotch brite to remove any luster. Then there is the conditioning of the wood before you even begin, with light wire wheeling, then nylox, then skip sanding so the wood picks up the different chemicals/stains/coatings differently. I think I'm getting pretty close to a silver/grey look that will shed spaghetti sauce and the sun, as well as catch me a buck or two.....

[thecfarm]

All I can say is click onto that picture!!!
I like it.