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Powemati 221

Started by trimguy, May 23, 2022, 07:02:41 PM

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trimguy

I have a powermatic 221 planer, has anyone ever put casters on one ? Is this a realistic idea ? I would like to be able to move it out for longer boards and out of the way for other times.

 

doc henderson

I have not.  how much does it weigh?  concrete floor?
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

looked it up, 1000 pounds.  just make the casters big and strong enough to support a half ton.  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

rusticretreater

You can make anything mobile.  The biggest question is whether you want to actually put casters on the machine or make a mobile base for it?  In either case, your wheels need to be solid so they don't flat spot when the machine sits in one location for a bit.  And of course, a wheel locking mechanism.

The second image on this page shows a similar to yours planer on a mobile base.
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=3057

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trimguy

For some reason I was thinking it was a little over 2000 lbs. Yes, smooth concrete floor. What would be the pros and cons of putting casters on it versus a mobile base ? Thank you.

beenthere

Just figure a way to get it jacked up enough to slip 3 (or 4) 1 to 2" steel pipes underneath to roll it on the pipes whenever needed for a different location.

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Larry

Nice looking machine, even has the grinder.

I made I guess a mobile base for a friend that has that same machine.  Worked well but I learned lessons from an earlier project.  Sorry no pics.

I have a SCMI shaper that weighs 1,400 something.  Bent brackets out of 4" by 3/8" bar.  Brackets worked great with no problem.  Found some casters that were supposed to be good for 500 pounds each but they were cheap China crap.  I can roll the machine out but it takes real effort.  Fortunately I only have to do it when running 16' long stuff which almost never happens.  This is my SCMI.




When I showed by friend my problem he found some really good castors that take little effort to roll his machine.....expensive as I think he paid $100 each five years ago.  Than I charged a couple hundred to fabricate the brackets so it was not a cheap deal.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

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YellowHammer

One key to putting casters under a machine is they decrease stability, especially the swivel ones.  The best way is to put them outside the current machine footprint, as Larry did, to maintain stability.  

Then put 3/4" bolts though the brackets to act as floor jacks so that when the machine is rolled to where it needs to be, the heads of the bolts are lowered to the concrete surface and used to barely jack the machine off the caster to keep it from roller and to prevent flat spotting the wheels.  
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Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

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bluthum

I have a considerably smaller powermatic 160[?] that had wheels when I got it. 2 wheels in the rear on an axle and one wheel on a steering rod in front. The front attaches into  simple bracket, you push down on the steering rod to lift the front off the floor and pull it around. Very maneuverable and  the tool is sitting on the floor when the steering wheel is detached. 

reride82

My woodmaster has casters like Yellowhammer recommends with rubber bases. My table saw has retractable casters that are very handy, but I don't know if they make them for that load.
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trimguy

No, I don't have the grinder for it. That makes a lot of sense with the casters on the out side and I like the bolt idea. @bluthum any chance I can get a picture whenever you get a minute ? I think I know what your describing. Does the handle provide enough leverage for weight and do you think it would work on a heavier machine? I am now covered up at work so it might be a little before I get to it.  Thank you everyone. 

metalspinner

Do you have a pallet jack?
If you're not going to move it often, it would be simple to just put a couple of 2x4s under it to slip the pallet jack under it. 
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

trimguy

I do not. But that is an idea, I also have a 37" wide belt sander that I will be wanting to move occasionally.

bluthum

 

@trimguy  I'll try to think to get a pic of the tripod caster for you in a week. In the midst of a computer apocalypse as we speak.


Tom King

I don't normally look in this forum, but just noticed this.  Look in the   what are you making thread    in Woodworking forum to see the base I just made for a 24" bandsaw.

I don't think the casters I used on that would be quite stout enough.  I'd get heavier 8" ones.

I have four swiveling casters on a couple of planers.  When running a batch that includes a bunch of pieces that require multiple passes, we spin the planer around rather than handle the boards twice.  Two swivels and two fixed won't let you do that.

My theory is that if you're going to make something mobile, make it Easily mobile.

I also like to keep the machine no higher than it has to be.

kelLOGg

I have the 160 model too.  Weighs 1200 lbs and have never considered casters. All my other equipment has them and if they hit debris on the floor motion stops.  It would be a challenge for me to keep the floor clean enough for it to roll easily without using bigger wheels that raise the height. 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

DON FRANK

I have the 18" version of that with a 7.5hp motor. Forgot what it weights but it's heavy. I acquired an old warehouse cart that I put it on. The cart is certainly heavy duty enough and has 8-10" casters on it. One person can move it about on a smooth floor with some effort but as someone mentioned before it would be a no go with any junk or wood on the floor. Since I'm over 6' tall I do love the fact that the height of the throat is at a much better height. 

trimguy

I shouldn't Have to move it very often, so it shouldn't be a problem to sweep the floor first. Now I have some other things that are more important to take care of first. I know nobody else has the problem with not enough hours in a day.

kelLOGg

There are hours in a day?? I thought it was only seconds. ;D ;D
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

trimguy

Bringing this thread back up with questions on setting up this planner. I consider myself at least some what mechanically inclined, but haven't work on anything like this before.  
     First, there are a number of grease fittings on this, for rollers, etc. What type of grease would be best to use? Also, how often (maybe in linear ft because it won't be used all the time).                         
      Second, I'm cleaning all the surface rust off of the bed and rollers I'm going to wax them. I'm sure that I don't want to wax the feed rollers, but is there something that I should put on them to protect them from the humidity? In the very near future it will get moved into a condition space, so probably won't be a problem then.
       Third, if I slide a straight edge across the beds it does not touch the rollers on the bottom. How much do I need to adjust these up? should they just barely turn when I slide a straight edge back-and-forth? Or should they be slightly higher than the bed? I will be planning dried, rough sawn lumber, but I will have multiple passes, so I guess I will also be planning " finished "lumber.
      And lastly, for now, is there anything else I should check, look at, address, thank you for your time.

doc henderson

so the roller can be down for already flat smooth stock, for final planing and to eliminate or reduce snipe as it is full supported by the bed. this is best for thin stock as well as the deflection between the rollers caused by the cutters will cause rough milling.  rough sawn, warped or cupped lumber does better with some roller elevation.  grizzly has recommendations for this, and has a difficult cam adjustment.  You need them to be even across the bed relative to the cutters so the boards come out same thickness side to side.  I think you can red and down load the manual and it will help even if yours is not grizzly.  the work horse planers tend to be similar if not identical.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

went back and looked at the pic.  what does the lever with the red knob do?  this is the location for the bed roller height adjustment on some planers.  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

here is a Grizzly manual for a 20 inch planer with a bed roller adjustment lever.  may or may not help, but on page 20 it talks about height, and when to use them, and how to adjust.

g0544_m.pdf (grizzly.com)
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

firefighter ontheside

The planer I just bought weighs about 800 lbs.  I bought casters rated for 250 each and mounted them to boards with thru bolts.  I made them a little longer than the machine footprint and mounted them under the machine sticking out from the sides a little to account for the swivel casters.  It works great.  The only problem is that the casters don't lock.  The good news is that the thing won't roll over even the tiniest thing without much effort, so a couple tiny pieces of wood make good chocks.
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trimguy

 

 Doc, originally it was stuck in place and I didn't know. A little Blue Creeper and it moves the rollers up and down. So that would make for an easy adjustment between rough sawn and finished lumber ??Sometimes it's just good to be lucky.  The large handle in bottom center is the bed adjustment.

Thanks for the article, I will look at it tonight.
  FF thanks for that. I'm still contemplating my options. Lately I was thinking go with the pallet jack because I'm moving in to a conditioned shop that only has a 7' tall door so I can only set a pallet of wood in the doorway because of the overhang and will need a pallet jack to move it inside. But I like the idea of not having to use another tool to move it.

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