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Tung Oil not Drying

Started by locustoak, December 29, 2022, 06:22:40 PM

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locustoak

Hi all,
First time using Tung oil, and I've been having a problem with it not fully drying. I'm using Hopes 100% pure tung oil, not the polymerized stuff.  I used the first coat 3 weeks ago, and  it's still gumming up sandpaper between coats, which I'm assuming means that it's not dry yet, nor is it ready for the next coat?
Is it fine to go ahead and put on the next coat? Does this stuff ever even fully dry?
What are your tips for using PURE tung oil?

btulloh

Keep the heat up where it's drying.  Takes a long time for pure oil ti dry. Same with raw linseed oil. A little Japan Dryer mixed in before it's applied will be a big benefit.

Is there a reason you chose to use 100% pure?

Add:  only put the Japan Dryer in the oil you're applying. Don't mix it into the whole bottle!
HM126

btulloh

One other question-  are you allowing to soak in for a few minutes and then wiping off the excess?  (Just have to ask the obvious. . . :)  )
HM126

Den-Den

I often use pure Tung oil diluted 50% +- with mineral spirits.  Straight from the container, it is very thick.  In warm weather, the diluted version drys in about three days, takes quite a bit longer when my shop is cool.
Assuming you wiped off any excess, it should dry eventually, heat will speed it up.
You may think that you can or may think you can't; either way, you are right.

kelLOGg

I've been applying Wood River pure Tung oil to my ash project in an unheated shop (35°F and higher) and have had no issues with it drying. I am applying just one coat and it feels dry in a few hours. I have been very careful to minimize the exposure of the tung oil in the plastic container to air by adding marbles to the container and squeezing the bottle to expel the air after using it.
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

locustoak

Thanks all.
Yes, I let it set for 1 hour, then wipe off all excess.
I put heat lamps over it overnight, and didn't seam to have any benefit.

I'm considering using Odies oil or Osmo hardwax after this since its taking way too long to dry.

Old Greenhorn

What tung oil are you using? I wanted to ask this when you first posted. an Hour seems a long time to wait before buffing. Did you have the piece under the heat amps before the application so it could warm up first?
EDIT:
Sorry, just re-read the OP. I had this confused with another thread and asked stupid questions. Still, an hour seems pretty long, is that what the product directions say?
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

tule peak timber

Another option is for you to use a solvent soaked rag and completely wipe down your project, use a dry rage and re-wipe. Be careful about the disposition of these 2 rags and they may spontaneously combust, put them in water or spread them out on a concrete floor. Go back to your pure oil and mix up a small batch with a small amount of Japan drier and wipe all over, then wipe off. This should set your oils.
Cheers
persistence personified - never let up , never let down

kelLOGg

I have used Wood River 100% tung oil on only two projects consisting of the woods sweetgum and ash - see pics.
When I apply it, I pour a streak on the wood and immediately rub it in to make it uniform. Thats it - no 2nd coat, no waiting and it is dry in about an hour. I don't know if this is the best way - it is just the only way I have tried and I am very pleased with the results. This is probably why I don't have a problem with it drying even in my unheated shop where the temp during application is sometimes 40ish. 



 



 

Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

scsmith42

Quote from: tule peak timber on December 29, 2022, 08:34:18 PM
Another option is for you to use a solvent soaked rag and completely wipe down your project, use a dry rage and re-wipe. Be careful about the disposition of these 2 rags and they may spontaneously combust, put them in water or spread them out on a concrete floor. Go back to your pure oil and mix up a small batch with a small amount of Japan drier and wipe all over, then wipe off. This should set your oils.
Cheers
This is great advice.
Typically I view pure tung oil as a product that hardens "in the wood", as opposed to being a film finish.  I personally wipe off after 15 minutes, not an hour.
Japan dryer can be difficult to find, but it works wonders in helping pure tung oil to dry.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

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