1st Attempt Sawmill

SouthMSHomemade · February 05, 2023, 10:00:54 PM

Hello to all, I used a friends woodmizer and decided that day I would try to build me a mill. I since then have looked over forums and watched videos on youtube for 8 months. I then decided I would began my journey so I ordered a few parts and started. I have been working on it for about 4 weeks now and am happy with it so far. Any advice from a seasoned mill builder on what Ive done so far and what I could do in the future will be greatly appreciated. The bed is 30ft long and should allow me to cut up to a 44" log. It will powered by a 22hp honda engine. It has 12v gear motors to raise/lower the head and will also have a 12v gearmotor chaindrive for the power feed. I will run both with a PWM controller so I can control the speed. Thanks in advance for your advice.

Ljohnsaw · February 05, 2023, 10:29:02 PM

Great start. I like your tracking adjustment plate. You WILL need that on the drive side as well. How are you planning to tension the blade? Because you only have the angle iron as your "frame", you should position all of your support legs as close to your log bunks as possible. An odd shaped, big log on the wrong bunk may bend your frame.

SouthMSHomemade · February 05, 2023, 10:33:21 PM

Thank you sir, My plan was to shim the pillar blocks on drive side to get where I need to be and then use the adjustment plate to tension and track the blade at same time. Do you see this idea being feasible? Was actually thinking of adding more support legs and lowering it to the ground. Im going to anchor it to a concrete slab. For reference the angle is 3"x3"x3/8"

Ljohnsaw · February 05, 2023, 10:42:59 PM

Shimming the pillow blocks is doable. A bit of a pain but once set you will be good to go pretty much forever. However, using the tracking adjustment as a means to change the blade will get old real quick. First off, the regular threads on those will wear out pretty quickly pulling the tension you need on the blade. Then it's a matter of keeping the tracking set/resetting each time you change a blade. If you are doing big wood, figure start with a fresh blade and changing at least one time during the day and more if you hit something nasty in the wood. You want your blade changes to be as easy as possible so you will do it when the blade starts to dull and not try to keep going with a bad blade.

On my V1.0 mill, I used an ACME screw from a scissor jack as the adjustment. Now I have a hydraulic ram (puck) to do the work and just hand tighten a big bolt to hold it in place. Still use the same sliding method - a piece of 2x2x¼ tube sliding in a 2½x2½x¼ tube (think receiver hitch parts). Sure, there is a little play but the blade tension keeps it tight and the tracking true.

TimW · February 05, 2023, 10:48:41 PM

Looks great so far. What size are your wheels?
hugs, Brandi

SouthMSHomemade · February 05, 2023, 10:51:58 PM

Quote from: ljohnsaw on February 05, 2023, 10:42:59 PM
Shimming the pillow blocks is doable. A bit of a pain but once set you will be good to go pretty much forever. However, using the tracking adjustment as a means to change the blade will get old real quick. First off, the regular threads on those will wear out pretty quickly pulling the tension you need on the blade. Then it's a matter of keeping the tracking set/resetting each time you change a blade. If you are doing big wood, figure start with a fresh blade and changing at least one time during the day and more if you hit something nasty in the wood. You want your blade changes to be as easy as possible so you will do it when the blade starts to dull and not try to keep going with a bad blade.

On my V1.0 mill, I used an ACME screw from a scissor jack as the adjustment. Now I have a hydraulic ram (puck) to do the work and just hand tighten a big bolt to hold it in place. Still use the same sliding method - a piece of 2x2x¼ tube sliding in a 2½x2½x¼ tube (think receiver hitch parts). Sure, there is a little play but the blade tension keeps it tight and the tracking true.

I will definitely revisit the tension idea, could i see a couple pictures of yours?

SouthMSHomemade · February 05, 2023, 10:52:25 PM

Quote from: Bindian on February 05, 2023, 10:48:41 PM
Looks great so far. What size are your wheels?
hugs, Brandi

Im running 19" wheels.

Ljohnsaw · February 05, 2023, 11:30:08 PM

Quote from: SouthMSHomemade on February 05, 2023, 10:51:58 PMI will definitely revisit the tension idea, could i see a couple pictures of yours?

Here is a link to my re-build showing a lot of the upgrades. V1.5

thecfarm · February 06, 2023, 05:16:27 AM

I always say make it long, but you already done that part.

Put some L shaped pieces of metal under the head so it cannot tip over. I have hit an odd shaped log a few times and knocked the head off the track.
Without those L shaped pieces, it would have fell over.

JRWoodchuck · February 06, 2023, 11:24:32 AM

You'll probably want a few closer spaced bunks for when you have a shorter logs up there. And a set of cooks blade guides. You can just get the guide itself and fab up the rest. Otherwise looks great!

fluidpowerpro · February 06, 2023, 11:55:04 AM

Looks great so far. My only suggestion would be that eventually you will find that want your angle iron track to be either directly on the ground or 100% supported. I say this based on my experience with 2 Hudson Mills. They both use heavy angle iron like yours and I found that if the track is not supported really well, you will get some "bounce" while sawing big logs. I would place a long 4x4 under each side, and then put the track on top. Better yet, pour a long cement slab and anchor the track too it. You will also find that when loading heavy logs, it's inevitable that the track will be pushed to the side or moved in some way or another. Having it securely fastened to a slab will prevent that.

Crusarius · February 06, 2023, 02:37:12 PM

looks like a very nice start. I definitely recommend beefing the bed. I have never been a fan of angle iron because it has very little torsional rigidity (twists to easy).

Your probably going to want more bunks, there is a big gap between them. When I built mine I put my main 2x6 bunks at 36" oc. then I added a 2x2 bunk 12" from each of those. my longest span is 36" but I find myself wanting it closer sometimes.

a moveable bunk or 3 would be quite beneficial.

For my tracking adjustment and tensioning, I used a hydraulic ram I purchased from linn lumber. It was pricey but I have never regretted buying it. my drive side is mounted to the frame and has 1 adjuster bolt pushing on the pillowblock bearing and a block on the other side. For the tensioning side I have everything mounted to the sliding piece including the alignment screws. the entire pulley system slides. it has worked wonderfully and has not needed any adjustment since I set it the first time.

Blade changes are very easy on mine. Unscrew the hydraulic tensioner, press on the blade to compress the ram then remove blade and reinstall. then tighten hyrdaulic tensioner and away you go.

here is the hydraulic tensioner

very early picture of the tensioning end.

closeup of my tracking adjusting bolts.

check out my gallery and build thread for more pictures and info.

SouthMSHomemade · February 06, 2023, 06:01:11 PM

Quote from: JRWoodchuck on February 06, 2023, 11:24:32 AM
You'll probably want a few closer spaced bunks for when you have a shorter logs up there. And a set of cooks blade guides. You can just get the guide itself and fab up the rest. Otherwise looks great!

I did order the cooks blade guides just havent installed them yet, Appreciate it.

SouthMSHomemade · February 06, 2023, 06:06:55 PM

Quote from: fluidpowerpro on February 06, 2023, 11:55:04 AM
Looks great so far. My only suggestion would be that eventually you will find that want your angle iron track to be either directly on the ground or 100% supported. I say this based on my experience with 2 Hudson Mills. They both use heavy angle iron like yours and I found that if the track is not supported really well, you will get some "bounce" while sawing big logs. I would place a long 4x4 under each side, and then put the track on top. Better yet, pour a long cement slab and anchor the track too it. You will also find that when loading heavy logs, it's inevitable that the track will be pushed to the side or moved in some way or another. Having it securely fastened to a slab will prevent that.

It will be anchored down to a concrete slab at every mount, since I built it Ive been looking at it and I think Im going to cut adjustments down to about 6" tall. They are currently 1' tall. Either cut them down or cross brace it from bottom of bed to mount on other side once its level.

Crusarius · February 06, 2023, 07:42:42 PM

don't forget about how to clean under the mill.

fluidpowerpro · February 07, 2023, 02:54:59 PM

Cruser is right in that its nice to have space under the track for debris to fall.
When I mounted my track directly onto the slab, I had to use a small flat shovel to clean out in between. Although it was an inconvenience, I still felt that it was of great benefit to have the track anchored directly to the slab. I had absolutely no bounce and didnt have to worry about ever bending the angle iron by accident if a log fell on it. This was only on a small mill that would cut 18" max. Your mill is a lot bigger so bigger logs will have more risk of damage to the track.
Either way, at this point in your build, you've got a lot more things to focus on. You can always get things to the point of cutting, and if you decide to change the track set up later, you can.
Its rare to build something and not make revisions later.

RetiredTech · February 09, 2023, 06:38:17 AM

Quote from: ljohnsaw on February 05, 2023, 10:42:59 PMHowever, using the tracking adjustment as a means to change the blade will get old real quick.

I'm still in the build phase myself, but I can verify this statement. I used 3/4" allthread for the tracking that doubles as the tension setting. Removing or changing the blade means I have to readjust the tracking too. It's just one thing I'd change if I could start over.