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Drying and sterilizing large pieces?

Started by Broncman, September 06, 2023, 06:19:36 AM

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Broncman

I am getting ready to mill quite a few mantle size pieces of ash. Plan is to spray with Timbor immediately after milling and then reseal the ends with anchorseal.

I have a kiln and can starilize as well.

My thoughts are to air dry them for about a year, then???

Does it hurt to run a sterilizing cycle if they are not fully dry?

Thoughts on how to properly dry and sterilize large pieces around 4" thick?
Frontier OS31 bandsaw mill
Dehumidifier Kiln with sanitize heat,
Honda Pioneer 1000-5
Stihl and Huskies...

K-Guy


The wood must be below 25% or you could get defects.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

doc henderson

that thick you cannot go too fast, so air dry makes some sense (unless it goes to fast).  may need to limit airflow and keep shaded.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

YellowHammer

Sticker them, stack them in a shady but not stagnant spot and let them air dry until they get under 20% at least, 15% is better, then put them in a kiln and heat to 150F for a couple days.

The "year" of drying is subjective.  So, let them air dry until they are ready, it may take a year, it may take a couple, and with the extreme thickness of your slabs, they may (will) crack anyway.  There is tremendous drying stresses in thick pieces of wood, there will the cracks....  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

doc henderson

you say a bunch... is that 10 or a hundred.  you could get a scale and weight them off the start and follow the loss of moisture/weight.  you could do an oven dry sample to check initial MC and use that as a starting point.  in the first moments a small sample will have the same moisture content as the big mantles.  if the logs have been dead or sitting a while, there may well be a difference in outer vs. inner MC.  so, you could do the dry wright on a log cross section of a representative section.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Broncman

Thanks for all the advice guys! Doc, I have about a dozen  trees to do something with. Smallest I want to fool with is 12" diameter and a few monsters that are over 3" diameter.  Most are 18 -20" diameter. 

Being new to all this, I got a lot to learn. What ash I did saw when I got my mill , it was prone to cracking, but I did not seal it or keep it in a shady area. Just under a bunk with tin cover.
Frontier OS31 bandsaw mill
Dehumidifier Kiln with sanitize heat,
Honda Pioneer 1000-5
Stihl and Huskies...

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