gauging you cut

[highpockets]

For years I have been wondering how different folks deal with the depth of cut when sawing. I don't get to see many portable mills around here.  I saw a Timber King or Harvester one time and I think it had a gauge kind of like a clock.  I noticed that Tom's mill ( I think a Baker) has a drum type gauge.  I have gone back to a normal rule mounted on the sawhead for the time being. 

I have drawn up some templates that I plan to plasma cut that will be spaced like 1" & 2" or whatever to include the kerf.  These can be swung over a pointer and zeroed.  Before I go to all of this work, I wanted to see what others were using.  I may be creating more work that it is worth. 

[ely]

mine has a rule on it with about 3 different scales. reg.inches then 1x and 2x

[GF]

You can buy a stick on guage from Cooksaw for around $10, I have the 4/4 5/4 6/4 and inch gauge.  Each one has two thicknesses on them.

Here is the link
http://www.cookssaw.com/csmshop/default.php/cPath/73_130

[woodbowl]

I have a rule gage as well. It works real good, but when I'm tired at the end of the day I find that it takes more time and effort to bump the index for an exact alignment.
      When I build my homemade mill, I would like to make a dial to try out. At this point, I'm not familar with the different options of tracking. What is the medium used to transfer the head position to the dial. Is it a string, a geared spline or some other means of transfer?

[Brad_S.]

On the Timber Harvester, it is transfered from the rotation of the lift bar by chains to two angle gears that spin the pointer on the dial.

[jpgreen]

I think that dial would be awesome.  I'd like one on my WM.

Hay Dick- you prolly could come up with one of those..

[highpockets]

Its early and I'm only one third cup of coffee so I can't remember all of your names and who commented on what, so excuse me. 

First I bought a scale from Cooks. It cost me some $19.80 before I got it here. U.P.S. instead of an envelope. I thought I was getting a metal scale at the time. Then I found it was only a decal.  I guess it is ok. You professional sawyers deserve a better scale.  Now the one with the dial is what I've had in my mind for years. I'd love to see a real closeup of that.  I've never seen one up close but kind of understand how it works. 

My question to you guys is what do saw? For example do you normally cut even 1", 2" 4" , etc.  One of the reasons I have not made a dial gauge is the lettering, etc. It just dawned on me that there is a lady up the road that makes signs with a cnc vinyl cutter.  I can cut the dial with my cnc plasma and cover it with her vinyl.  I figure a fellow could use a No. 35 chain as the rack.  MSC Supply or someone has the sprockets and gears.   

How is he best way to space it, in 1/16" 1/8" or what.  Are there folks that like to cut 2" x 4"'s to
1 5/8 x 3 5/8" ?   

[Bibbyman]

Our mill has computer setworks. (Top section of the box.) It's programmable and has a couple of modes - up, down, go-to, pattern, etc.  It even acounts for the saw kerf.

Works for me!  8)

[thecfarm]

I only have a manual mill,but I have a hand crank with a dog that goes into the link of the chain.I count my "clicks" 14 in an inch,forgot what the others are.It wrote down on the inside of the toolbox.I used a red maker for 1 inch a black for 3/4 and blue for 1/2.All I have is a small piece of metal for a pointer that travels up and down on this ruler.Some of the marks will be the same for 3/4 and 1/2 at times.Yes,this includes the kerf too.Been doing this for 5 years now and this works super for me.When I put a log on the only bad part is,I really can't go from 1 inch to 3/4 without wasting 1/4 board.I have to cut all the same thickness.This is real simple for me.Seems like Barker had a ruler that does what you need.I saw it at a expo show.

[Trent]

I used 8 TPI acme thread. 8 turns equals 1", 2 turns equals 1/4" ect.   Never sawed a log yet though!

[Dan_Shade]

trent, word of warning, you have to watch your kerf with a setup like that, it will catch up with you sooner or later, depends on what you're sawing.

my saw has a gauge on it.  I keep meaning to take some pictures of how I do it, but I keep forgetting.

[highpockets]

We need a closeup photo from Brad_s and Tom's Baker

[Woodwalker]

Highpockets, I got to thinking about this same thing a few weeks ago. My mill came with a rule and a pointer. Works OK, but you have to do the math for the kerf, and as the saw head raises or lowers past eye level, it can make you off on your cut. I started looking at digital measuring devices. There are some on the market to retrofit onto planners, but are only 6" long.  Digital vernier calipers could probably be made to work, but size and price keep me looking. There are a couple of manufactures of digital measuring devices for table saws. Some as long as 50" or so and priced higher than I wanted to spend.
What I've found and bought is a 16' digital tape measure made by Starrett. I haven't had a chance to install it, but I can't see any reason for it not to work. I plan to mount the case to the frame and the end of the tape to the moveable saw head. You can zero the thing at any length that the tape is pulled out and it will read either direction, plus or minus, in inch fractions or mm. Don't know how long the battery will last or if the display will be readable in sunlight. I've checked it against one of my rules and it is true.
Woodwalker

[Max sawdust]

The WM15 I bought from Plowboy has a nice magnetic rule with 4/4 5/4 6/4 and 8/4 rule works REAL good.
Just slide it up and down on the inch scale and take the waste from above or on the bed, always get the thickness I want.  Real simple for a simple minded new sawyer ;D
Must be from WM ???
max

[Paul_H]

This is really simple too and the clip is two inches long and is used as a slider for 1 & 2 " material. The kerf on my mill is a full 3/8 and the pointer allows for that with a Red and White mark spaced at 3/8.
So for an example, in the picture the White mark on the bottom of the pointer is at 9 1/8 so if I want to saw a 2" board,it will lower until the Red mark on the top of the pointer is at 7 1/8". (A clip length)

[Frank_Pender]

I just use the tope edger plade for my width determination.  It works much faster for me.

[highpockets]

Bibby, us pore folks can just look and weep. 

Woodwalker, you may have an idea there with the digital rule.  I have some digital readouts on my lathes and mills and they work great but are expensive for a sawmill.

You guys with the rules are using about the same thing I am at the present time.  I did have a sliding gauge that was attached to a cable.  It had a 2 : 1 ratio so a 1/4" movement in the head moved the scale 1/2", but read the actual head movement.   There was a black pointer that read the blades position. I had a sliding red pointer that was adjustable for the cut depth desired.  When one came down on the face, he could put the black pointer on the cut and see the height off the bed.  He could then read the red pointer to see where to go for the next cut.  It worked fairly well but I didn't get the slide tight enough initially, so it moved a little.   

Thanks for the response, I know there are some more ideas out there.  I bought 1,000 nice Oak stacking sticks yesterday for $0.10 each.   We're going to get them today.  Yall want some? 

[bcraw98]

Tom has some posts on his 1/8th method  I couldn't find the one that I was looking for, but here is an abbreviated version.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=780.msg8722#msg8722

I'm a newbie, but his method works very good for me  8)

[jpgreen]

"Bibby, us pore folks can just look and weep." 



Poor?  Ha!...... -more like stubborn and determinded...  :D

[leweee]

"Bibby, us pore folks can just look and weep." 
Poor?  Ha!...... -more like stubborn and determinded...  :D

jp..... all I know is there is a FINE LINE between stubborn & stupid ;D
         (don't ask me how I know this) :

         I have the newfee  accuset on my manual bandmill. I mark the cant from the bottom up with a magic marker were I want the cuts made( the width of the mark is the kerf) the tailman sites from the end of the mill when the blade lines up with the mark.

Even a blind sawyer(visually impaired fella like myself) can saw accurate lumber this way( as long as the tailman has good eyesight & is on the ball)

Now I'm looking for a GUIDE DOG that will bark when I'm close.

No problems with the newfee accuset( unless you lose the pen,tape measure or tailman) :D

[WeeksvilleWoodWorx]

Ruler, what ruler?

I like to push buttons like Bibby ;D :D 8)

[jpgreen]

leweee...

Is the newfee accuset available to most normal folks or is this just a "Canadian" thing?..  :D

[leweee]

leweee...

Is the newfee accuset available to most normal folks or is this just a "Canadian" thing?..  :D

It's more of a 3rd world thing than anything. : Necessity being the mother of invention type of thing (poor & destitute helps too) Kinda low tech or no tech type a thing. Living proof what happens when poor folks have to Get-R-Done. ;D

It's all apart of the K.I.S.S.principle. 

Like Bibby says " Works for me 8)"

[Kevin]

I'm using magnetic strips with markings at 1/16" larger than the actual measurement to allow for blade thickness on the LT-15.
It's cowboy simple and cheaper than dirt.

[arj]

I use a yard stick that came with my mill. I`ve added home made skicks mounted next for what ever thickness I want to cut. The marks have the kerf figured in. Got a bunch every time soneone wants a differant size I make a new one. only takes a few minutes.
                           
                                               arj