Need help on drying wood for a sawing/drying shed

[Jeremy2200]

I have decided to build me a sawing/drying shed behind my shop at home. The main question i have is if i use oak or pine for the rafters, joists, and posts do i need to dry them first. I also am wondering If i cut some 6x6 of 8x8 posts for the shed would i be better digging holes and setting them in or pouring concrete and setting the poles on top of the concrete once it dries. I am worried if i bury them in concrete in the ground they will rot since none of it will be treated. Could i use any kind of wood like hickory or do i need to stick with oak or what. Please help
thanks
Jeremy

[WDH]

Putting wet posts in concrete in the ground is a ticket for rot.  Your plan of pouring a footing and setting the post on top seems to be less risky for rot.  Don't they make a metal bracket for that application that keeps the bottom of the post a little proud of the concrete?

People use green pine for building a lot, but I am not sure about oak.  Hickory has a high rot factor, and the powderpsot beetles love it.  I would stay away from hickory if you have other choices like pine and oak.

[Planman1954]

Use pine. Cut it and air dry it for a few weeks....now that its summer, a lot of the moisture will escape. If you put the posts in the ground, soak them in old motor oil for a few days. Don't set them in concrete, they'll rot...just like the previous post said. You could set them on concrete footings (probably the best route) but you'll need to have plenty of good cross bracing as you build...until you get the sheathing on. Good luck.

[PineNut]

I built a shed about 20 years ago using 6 x 6 untreated pine posts. For each post, I built a concrete pillar extending about 12 inches above the ground. At the center of each post, there was a ½” piece of re-bar extending about 4 inches above the pillar. On two sides of the post, there was a piece of iron with two holes in it extending about 6 to 8 inches above the pillar. Drilled a hole in the end of the post and set it over the pillar and then using lag bolts, fastened it to the iron bars in the pillar. This shed has seen 100 mph winds (Katrina) without any problems. It did have good bracing to the roof in all possible directions and the roof has over 2 foot overhang so the posts do not see much direct moisture. This is my preferred method.

My dad built a similar shed that lasted for about half a century before it was torn down for lack of use. It was still structurally strong when it was demolished.