Teeth setting questions

[dhp3228]

So with everyone's input about sharpening blades I have moved into teeth setting. I started today after three blades that I had sharpened had heavy pitch build up behind the teeth. Which I assumed was because I had sharpened the blades twice but hadn't set the teeth.

So today I set teeth. I am using an older single tooth hand setter.

What advice and tips would y'all give a newbie?

I remember reading that some like to set before sharpening and others preferred to do it after. Which do y'all prefer and why?

Also I'm using 1 1/4" blades. How much set would y'all recommend?

I got a section of new blade and calibrated my machine off of it? But I'm still curious about the specifics.

Also I had problems with the center pin needing continued adjustment to keep the proper pressure on the blade. Do y'all have to do this?

I'm using an older setter from WoodMizer

Thanks for the help

[Tom the Sawyer]

The blade must be clean to be set accurately.
If you sharpen first, make sure the burr is removed before you set.
I clean, set, and sharpen.

[terrifictimbersllc]

I clean, set, sharpen.

Unless I am saving a damaged blade, then I clean, sharpen, set, resharpen.  I don't do this often, only if a few teeth damaged.  Worse blades get discarded.

Advice?
Get a 10x hand lens. http://www.amateurgeologist.com/belomo-10x-triplet-loupe-magnifier.html 

Learn what a tooth that is ground off square looks like, that is what you want. 

Monitor set, with a good gauge, so you understand what you have done.  You need to spot check more than one tooth, to understand the deviation you are achieving. http://woodmizer.com/Store/Product/Index/1124

[DMcCoy]

X2 on the hand magnifier.  Once I made sure the outside corners were sharp my mill cuts amazingly flat even with knots.

[Ox]

Yep, set first then sharpen.  The worst thing for me is it always seems like there's at least one tooth that will not set like the others.  It'll either go too far or not enough.  It's aggravating to no end.  That being said, I usually set to .025 and after I sharpen (not a heavy grind) I'm assuming it settles into the .023 range.  I've never measured the set after sharpening.  Always had good results and good feedback from the couple of guys I sharpen for.  Like terrifictimbersllc said, damaged blades usually need the profile brought back first, then set, then a light touch on the sharpener again.

Sorry, but I can't help you with the adjustments on a Woodmizer setter.  I've never used one and don't know anything about it.

X2 on the sharp corners as well!  If you think about it, the corners do most of the work and are the most important and are also the first things to go dull as they are the weakest.  Quite the catch 22, eh?  :D

[Kbeitz]

I'm just a newbie but I'll tell you what I've read.
Any where from .012º to .040º

[Cutting Edge]

1)  ... three blades that I had sharpened had heavy pitch build up behind the teeth.


2)  I got a section of new blade and calibrated my machine off of it? But I'm still curious about the specifics.


3)  I'm using an older setter from WoodMizer ... had problems with the center pin needing continued adjustment to keep the proper pressure on the blade. Do y'all have to do this?

1)  Blades HAVE to be clean - the blade body and the teeth.  If not, you'll NEVER be able to accurately set the teeth.

2)  Not the best method.  IMO, it is best to ZERO the dial indicator on a KNOWN true flat piece of stock.  Make sure the dial indicator itself is adjusted so the hardened circular tip is co-planer with the blade clamp.

3)  Depending on which revision of older WM sharpener you have, the mechanics of adjusting the amount of clamping force is different.  Pics would be helpful  in this aspect.  Once setup properly, you can check the set.  If desired, set the tooth.  And finally, check how much you "bent" the tooth to check the final amount of set induced into the blade.  No need for handheld set gauge that clamps onto the blade.

Yes, there are blades that will try your patience depending on the how tight of a tolerance you want to hold... if any.   

Hope this helps.

[dhp3228]

I started to notice cracks in the blades as well in some of the ones I had sharpened a couple of times already. So my question is do y'all scrap them once a crack develops or run them till they break?

[Magicman]

I would never knowingly put a cracked blade on the sawmill.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Sounds like a way to rip up your band wheels, send metal flying and maybe ruin some wood.

[Tom the Sawyer]

I wire brush my bands to clean them.  If I see a single crack developing, I break the blade, coil it up and toss it on the scrap metal pile.  A blade that breaks while running will often cut into my band wheel belts, put a big dent in my covers, and has taken out my drip lubrication line.  Plus, it can be very startling to those who are 'uninitiated'... and there is the down time.  Bands are going to break at times, but why guarantee it by putting a defective band on the mill?

[Kbeitz]

If it was my blade and only had one crack then I would silver solder it.
I take blades to long for my mill and cut them to fit and I use silver solder to weld them.
Might not be for everyone.