Re: Chap Style /Chain Mill Operation

[Lem]

Kevin,Stan,oldsaw,
 Thanks for the responses.
 I did not wear chaps every time I used the old simple "vertical" mill,figuring that the log was twixt me and the saw,and saw was for the most part not running when not in the log :
  Could I presume that some do not wear them when using an Alaskan ,[w/o an auxilliary handle],Kevins' picture notwithstanding.I am NOT looking for a recommendation to not wear chaps,but rather just wondering if you all do.
  STAN,I don't have access to Maloofs book,could you describe your "Maloof"set-up for me?
 Lem

[Kevin]

I wear them in case the chain breaks.

[Lem]

 Have done milling for a number of years using a homemade saw guide.With this guide I was standing on the side of the log opposite to the saw,w/ the saw operating in the vertical position.Now am going to buy an Alaskan mill and in many cases will not be standing upright as I was before,[possibly even kneeling at times].Mill 24-28",not double end.
  What would you guys suggest as to style of chaps to get,and/or what style do you use when using an Alaskan?
   In this type of operation where might accidents occur,or put another way,what parts of the anatomy are most at risk ?
 Thanks,Lem
  

[Kevin]

I just wear the standard chain saw chaps.
The Alaskan is pretty safe to use.

[Stan]

I'm settin' mine up Malloff style so I'm at the opposite end of the log after the cut is started. Gets me away from the noise, the vibration and the cutting bar.  

[oldsaw]

It would be hard to make that thing much safer.  If you have your hands on the saw (which you need anyway), and the big aluminum rectangle that makes the guide reminding you of the danger even if you COULD get your hands or feet even close, and once the cut has started, the chain buried in the log.

It's only my humble opinion, but I can't think of a safer way to use a chainsaw.  The most dangerous part of any saw is the tip, and that is covered by a guard that is big enough to keep anything at bay, and fingers would have to go in purposely.

Think about it.  One hand has to be on the chainsaw, the other pushing the Alaskan.  Two hands and 10 fingers clear.  Once the cut is started, the saw side where you are at is buried up to the edge of the log, legs and feet are safe.  At the end of the cut, you have to clear the guide from the end of the log.  Since the guide is very wide and the bar is typically 1-2" from the center of it, you are pretty safe there too.  

The only way I've figured out you could really hurt yourself is if you were to sit down and place the running saw in your lap.  But even that would be limited compared to what a free swinging saw could do.

[Danny_S]

Same here Kevin. There are lots of bolts and a tip guard for the chain to wrap up on but just for safety sake, I will wear the pants.... and a pair of safety glasses.

[Stan]

I'll describe it, but Malloff has the advantage of pictures, so you'll probably not be able to grasp the concept.

You set up a winch at the opposite end of the log from the start of the cut. The winch has two lines on it. The are threaded through a couple of cheek blocks so that they run parallel to the log, on opposite sides. One line connects to the mill, near the nose and the other to a bridle that pulls on the saw and the trigger.

You just stand at the far end and crank the winch. When you have to stop to insert wedges, turn the winch backwards until the bridle pulling the saw trigger relaxs, a spring arrangement at the trigger lets the saw drop back to idle.

At the beginning and ending of the cuts you operate the mill in the up close and personal manner.

Hope that helps.  :P

[Lem]

  Stan,
 Understand concept. Good and clear explanation,Thanks.
 Believe that I have located a library w/ copy of Malloffs book...will find out tomorrow if they in fact still have it 8)
  Lem

[Stan]

My Technical Writing Professor would be glad you understood what I wrote, he claimed he never did.  :