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Felling a Tree - Poorly

Started by WDH, April 27, 2013, 09:38:20 PM

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WDH

I had a big loblolly pine that succumbed to the drought and the pine beetles.  As tree was an old one (maybe 80 years old), I wanted to fell it and saw up the boards for a customer that wants to build a 4 board horizontal fence. 

Rule # 49 in felling a tree - If the tree has an old fence wired to it from many decades ago, and if you saw it down above the old fence wire, then be sure to get the saw above the old fence wire  :-\.  This is only is a problem with a brand new chain.  With an old chain, it is never a problem  :)

The other issue besides old wire was that it was leaning the wrong way back over the property line which was only about 5' behind the tree.  My goal was to make the face cut, then make the back cut and wedge the tree over so that it would fall on my side of the line.  The problem happened on the back cut when I discovered that I was not high enough on the tree to clear the wire.  Stupid mistake. An awful grinding sound along with a grabby/jerky saw was the result.  I tried to keep going now as I was at the point of no return as the wire was deep in the tree.  I pounded in two wedges before it became clear that I could not get through the wire.  I tried to go a little higher on the back cut to clear the wire, after messing up the original back cut, but to no avail.  The tree sat back slightly on the wedges as the old back cut merely closed.  What a mess, and a very dangerous situation to boot.  This was late yesterday afternoon, so I quit to think about the situation. 

Last night as I lay in bed contemplating what a pitiful mess I had made and after reliving the event over and over to assess where I screwed it up, I came up with several ideas:

1).  Leave it for the next storm to blow over.  No.  Ticking time bomb.

2).  Go above old face and back cut and start over.  No.  Not enough hinge left and a good way to get killed.

3).  Use the tractor.  Attach several tow straps to the tree using a tall ladder to get as high as possible to attach the straps.  No.  Tree sitting dangerously.  Would be a weird scene for the Investigators when they found me under a ladder, under a tree, dead.

4).  Use the tractor forks or bucket to reach as high as possible and push the tree over.  No.  Dead top would break out and kill me.

5).  Attach some blocks to the tree with screws and use a jack to lift the tree up and over to the intended felling spot.  Hmmmm

So I built a contraption this morning.  However, did not work.  Screws just pulled out of the wet pine wood.



 

Side view.



 

So, next plan was to cut a slot out of the back of the tree for the jack to sit in, sacrificing the wedges.



 



 

Done.



 

A lesson in how-not-to-do-it  :).
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

beenthere

edit:
Anxious Glad to hear about 1) how you worked it out.   ;D
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

bill m

NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

mikeb1079

do you have any anchor points to tie a winch or come-along to?  guessing not but just thought i'd throw it out there....
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
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JohnW

On the other hand, beautiful.

WDH

I also screwed up the original post by hitting the wrong key before I was finished, so I went back and modified the original post to make it complete  :).  Whew, what a day. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

thecfarm

Glad to see it all worked out for you.  ;D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

barbender

I hate a tree that gets hung like that at the end of the day, I'm glad you got it on the ground, Danny.
Too many irons in the fire

Left Coast Chris

Not a good time of the day to get an adrenaline pump....  whew.   Good work getting it down.
Home built cantilever head, 24 HP honda mill, Case 580D, MF 135 and one Squirel Dog Jack Russel Mix -- Crickett

Ianab

Quote4).  Use the tractor forks or bucket to reach as high as possible and push the tree over.  No.  Dead top would break out and kill me.

Dead top is what would make me nervous alright.

A young local guy was killed last week by a similar tree. Professional faller, all the right gear. They were using a large excavator to help with taking your some pine trees close to the road. They had gripped the tree with a grapple on the ~20t excavator and the guy walked up to complete the cut. The top broke off with the vibration from the excavator and landed on the guy, killing him instantly. They had probably done the same thing 100 times before and had no problems.

Anyway, good (safe) recovery from a tricky situation. The jack lets you ease the tree over without jarring the top loose.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

SwampDonkey

In the situation you were backed up against there, the jack was a great idea. I think I've read about others using jacks on occasion. Leaning the wrong way, I would have slung a rope just above where the bottom end would be heavier than from the rope to the top and had a little tension on it. Not a lot because I would be worried about a quick snap of the fibres, while sawing, at the stump dislodging that dead top.

Tricky stuff.  ;D
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JDeere

I think given the circumstances you did a great job. You walked away to re-think the best approach and dropped it safely. A felled tree is like landing a plane. Any time you can walk away unscathed, consider it went well.
2013 Western Star, 2012 Pelletier trailer, Serco 7500 crane, 2007 Volvo EC 140, 2009 John Deere 6115D, 2002 Cat 938G, 1997 John Deere 540G, 1996 Cat D-3C, 1995 Cat 416B, 2013 Cat 305.5E

thenorthman

Jacking a tree is an old trick for big timber, and back leaners.  Uses less grunt then pounding in wedges.  A company called Silvey makes a couple of different sizes of tree jacks (they are all spendy... 1k plus) but a good 20-30ton bottle jack with a chunk of 3/8 steel plate on top works pretty good, just use em with a wedge incase of jack failure...

the other trick is to stack your wedges, usually a little pocket with a label on one side, fill that with dirt slap another wedge on top pound em one after the other.  The dirt keeps em from popping out acts like a shock absorber and traction device.

I've heard of guys stacking three wedges, where it is possible I've never needed to do it.

As far as dead tops go... You would be much safer to fall it with the lean, or tie a rope on it first, and pull after you've made your cuts.  Dead tops have a habit of falling whenever and wherever they want to.  Pounding wedges into a snag causes huge amounts of vibration, that vibration is what causes the dead stuff to break, looking for the perfect target to land on, soft and wet with nice crunchy finish (your head)
well that didn't work

Corley5

I've been cutting bug killed ash on my own woodlot with the Fabtek and it's bad enough being in the cab as brittle as the tops are.  I've got three that are too big for the machine to cut that I'll have to hand fall.  I considered leaving them but the kids play in the woods.  Keep an eye on the top all the time while falling. 
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

mesquite buckeye

Just glad you are OK and the tree is safely down.

I always hook up my back leaners with the big come along before starting. Only got hit on the head one time so far. ;D :o
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

Magicman

Glad that you got-er-down Danny.   :)

My friend, Wayne Smith, here in Brookhaven has three different patents on a tree pusher invention that solves those felling problems:  http://www.google.com/patents/US7891390
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

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Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

millwright

I use a small porta power with a duckbill on it for large leaners, for smaller ones I built a pike pole with an old fashioned ratchet car jack attached to the bottom, you jamb the point of the pole into the tree and the jack end into the ground.

Magicman

The trick is to keep if from twisting or turning on either end.  You can dot an i with that setup.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

GAB

The last fence line leaner that I took down I put a choker chain as high as I dared to climb and attached the winch cable to it.  Notched the tree and then put some tension on it.  Then started to cut the back side for a ways, added more tension and then cut until it went in the tugged or persuaded direction.  Note: I did stay above the wires.
WDH:  1.) Are you going to shelve the wedges so as to remind yourself of your experience.  In any case they should make for some interesting conversations.  2.) Had you used lag bolts instead of screws do you think your jack set up would have worked?  Gerald
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

WDH

Yes, I bet 5" lag screws would have probably held as long as the wood platforms did not split and fail first. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Ron Scott

~Ron

Peter Drouin

Im glad your ok,and you did a good job to get it down, but with all the land and good green trees you have . don't make it hard on your self, this time in your life it should be fun, leave the dead trees for the bugs, I have walk around trees like that and cut an easy one :D :D :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

WDH

Now that is sound advice, for sure  ;D.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

thecfarm

Quote from: WDH on April 29, 2013, 07:32:03 AM
Now that is sound advice, for sure  ;D.

Yes,it is. But where is the sense of adventure in that?  ;D  We have all been in a mess like that. And don't I hate it and know better everytime it hapens.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

grweldon

Quote from: WDH on April 28, 2013, 09:28:50 PM
Yes, I bet 5" lag screws would have probably held as long as the wood platforms did not split and fail first.

This is the first thing that went through my mind... 1/2 or larger lag screws, but then again, the pressure required to push the tree most-likely would have split the wood that was secured to the tree.

I think the pocket was a great idea!
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