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3D printing and woodworking ( Watcha printing ? )

Started by 21incher, November 15, 2023, 07:22:54 PM

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21incher

Over the last 6 or 7 years I have been using 3D printing to make things like tool and clamp racks, jigs and fixtures,  and project parts. Just thought I would start a thread where we can post ideas showing how everyone  has implemented 3D printing in their shop along with everywhere else. For me 3D printing has been a very slow process up to now. I just jumped on one of the lowest price fast enclosed printers at black Friday pricing. There are many better and multi color ones available now if you want to spend the money.  I just wanted an enclosed printer that is capable of printing materials other then PLA in the future for lasting outdoor items. I got the second generation Creality K1 and it's fast.

Now there are several sites with shared files of just about anything.  Thingiverse is the oldest and no longer the best, printables , and Creality has started their own. Just a maze if items to choose from and some like to design their own.  I know many have and use 3D printing so this may be a good place to have a thread for those interested

I'll post my first couple prints right out of the box with my printer. Opened it up, plugged it in and basically it took off on its own doing the setup and calibration.  Scared me when it went wild vibrating at different frequencies to calibrate the high speed shaping.  I printed a couple files in memory and it's  scary fast. A benchy in a little over 15 minutes that took my old printer over an hour. Then a flexible cat with the joints printed in place. After that I went to printables and found a SD card holder for my camera and drone cards. That took about 45 min to print and using the Creality slicer with stock settings it came out great.


 
Then I installed the app on my phone and found an item I was looking for on the Creality app. Downloaded and sliced on my phone. Then printed it from the phone. It is a sanding block that has a threaded knob to retain the paper. This took about an hour and a half to print and is really nice. The fine threads were a little tight at first and after sanding off the layer step flash it works great. This is on the Creality cloud if you use the app.


 

 
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Looking for a molding profile sanding block set and outside radius blocks next but may have to design my own. I just can't believe how easy and fast 3D printing has become over the years. I will be getting a lot more use from this one. I have many upgrades planned for my lasers that I bought this for.
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

Ljohnsaw

John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Crusarius

I am still trying to get the BLtouch to work on my ender 3. I think they sent me the wrong parts. Pretty sure they did since I had to drill a hole and bend a bracket to make it work just to hold the BLtouch.

SwingOak

I did basically the same thing, and bought a Soval SV06 during Amazon Prime days for $100 off. Got a filament dryer too. I use Solidworks all the time, so I've designed a bunch of functional prints that worked out great as well as printing some free downloads of things like print-in-place articulated horses, dinosaurs, various animal sculptures, loons, etc. most of which are cluttering my girlfriend's desk at work.

Really, the possibilities are endless. Everything has been in PLA so far, but the Soval can handle lots of other polymers. Don't count PLA out, because as long as it isn't going to be exposed to hot temperatures (like hot water or inside of the car hot) or direct sunlight, it will hold up very well and for a long time.

This guy has some really good videos where he tests out and gives you a review of just about every type of filament and polymer there is:

I Tested (Almost) EVERY FILAMENT on Amazon: Every Single Filament Part I

   

21incher

I just wound up ordering 5 rolls of the Creality hyper PLA after trying and having problems with standard pla and the speed the K1 is tuned for. Also have some TPU on the way to try ( there supposedly is a K1C coming out soon that will have upgrades to use the lower flowing regular PLA.  ). Also ordered the hardened nozzle kit for tougher materials but need to figure out a way to vent it as once you switch  to things like ABS and ASA the fumes can actually make you very sick. A whole new experience after my CR10S and Anycubic Chiron that were a pain to level for a decent first layer. 

Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

Crusarius

I have done a lot with ABS, it is my preferred filament. The PLA when setup correctly is very good but I like the ABS a little more.

21incher

I have not printed  abs yet but from looking at the shrink rate of the different colors of 2 to 3% it seems like each filament  will need to be tested and print size adjusted for accurate prints. I think PLA  is only in the .01 to .03% shrink range that makes it easier to start with and more forgiving of the print surface.  For most items PLA will work  but I found It just doesn't stand up outdoors and has been hard for me to keep moisture and freezing from damaging my parts. All the racks and fixtures in my shop have stayed fine with no sagging using PLA. Recently read a post about a kid that got very sick from printing ASA without ventilation so I definitely have to work on that before messing with that. 

Has anyone had luck printing nuts in for threads? I am thinking print the hexes in then stopping the print to insert nuts and restarting the print so they are totally encased. Small threads just don't seem to hold for me in PLA.
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

doc henderson

I will have some questions for you all.  My son does gaming and spends tons on the real time game characters.  what is a good unit for him to print his own? 
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

21incher

Quote from: doc henderson on November 18, 2023, 09:49:35 AM
I will have some questions for you all.  My son does gaming and spends tons on the real time game characters.  what is a good unit for him to print his own?


Doc you need to decide how big does he want to print, single or multi color, source for 3d models, material type. and which slicer he prefers  before he jumps in. Ihave also seen many of those figures SLA printed for fine details without supports. Plus he is going to have to spend quite a bit of time working out the best settings and support structure.  Probably  be best for hom to start watching some videos of what it takes others to accomplish and finish them. Probably won't save a lot over buying them for quite  a while but as you know making your own is priceless in the end. Creality has some great starter units and as of right now Bambu Labs make some of the best printing and multicolor units available at premium prices.  Who knows what may be coming next week. I almost went with  the Bambu Carbon but then decided to save a grand and go with the Creality and do some upgrades over time.  Obtaining copyright 3d models can also get expensive so have him check with other gamers to find a cheap or free source for personal use. 
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

Crusarius

Quote from: 21incher on November 18, 2023, 07:38:03 AMHas anyone had luck printing nuts in for threads? I am thinking print the hexes in then stopping the print to insert nuts and restarting the print so they are totally encased. Small threads just don't seem to hold for me in PLA.


I have left pockets and just pressed the nut in after the print was done. I tried to encapsulate the nut once but for some reason my pause did not transfer over in the g-code. As long as you design it right you can have a flanged hole that the nuts fit in perfectly.

21incher

I have been playing with the gridfinity modular storage blocks. Making a setup for my granddaughters craft stuff. The gray paint pen holders are printed  in the hyper pla and I had an old roll of yellow pla to play with. I got the standard pla to print pretty  good but running  at lower speeds you can see the ringing that I can't  get rid of. Funny  how it goes away at high speed. Would be nice if the input  shaping could have 2 calibrations on my machine, but it doesn't so it's either spend a little more for the hyper pla or live with the results. It sure is nice printing out things like the pen holders in a little  over an hour where that yellow grid plate took 4 hours at reduced speeds. Have to print sharpie holders next. Amazing all the different models for holding tools available for the gridfinity 


 

 

 

 

 
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

Crusarius

That is a pretty sweet system. I bet that would be pretty sweet as bolt bins in my shop drawers.

21incher

It's  a really nice system with thousands of different models available for organizing just about anything.  Only problem  I have is it calls  for 6 x 2 mm magnets and the batch I ordered are to big as the pockets measure  5.5 mm. Turns out some sell 5.5 magnets as 6mm ones. I just ordered another batch of 5 x 2 mm magnets to be safe. You only need them for tall items you will carry. The 5 x 5 grid is the max my k1 will fit but I may pull out the Chiron for 7 x 7 grids.
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

21incher

My wife asked  me to move the Blink sync module off her cabinet.  Searched on printables and found a wall mount. Less then a hour later it was moved out of the way.  Yesterday the K1 did a firmware update and I had to run the shaper setup again.  Well since I am getting almost perfect prints that look molded.  This print was made with a partial roll of cheap PLA filament I opened over 5 years ago. 


 

 
That printables is amazing.  Found some Packout organizer models I am going buy next for some of my m12 tools.
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

SwingOak

Quote from: 21incher on November 18, 2023, 07:38:03 AM
Has anyone had luck printing nuts in for threads? I am thinking print the hexes in then stopping the print to insert nuts and restarting the print so they are totally encased. Small threads just don't seem to hold for me in PLA.
I have printed 1/4-20 up to 3/8-16 and M6 threads in PLA that have proven to be remarkably strong. You might want to try that. I've found that I need to increase the hole size a bit from the standard 75% thread to around 60% for the best results. It would probably be stronger to print threads, depending on which way the layers on your print are oriented. 
Otherwise, thread inserts would be the way to go, just like in most any plastic part. That said, I'm sure you could design the hex so there was an undersize lip and then press a nut into the hex pocket to create a captured nut.  

21incher

I have made pockets to press them in and that works good but I want to bury them in taller parts. I found I can pause the print but will probably need to modify the g code to move the head out of the way and then go back and start printing.  I haven't has much luck with small threads in pla. For larger threads I have run a tap through but it's usually  only good for one tightening and not repeat disassembly.  I will play with it more. 

Getting really nice results now. finished up the gridfinity setup and it cane out nice


 
Then made some lampshades with the vase mode 1 wall thick and they came out absolutely perfect


 
Now  printing out custom inserts for my packouts. First is a 8 hour print that will be my longest. Getting really  nice first  layers and that new textured build plate makes the parts look molded 


 

 
Can't  wait to see everything organized. 
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

Crusarius

I have been just printing with a pilot hole with 3 perimeters and then run a 10-24 screw into it letting the screw cut its own threads. it holds fine but you are correct repeated in and out they don't last. Surprisingly though, the 10-24 actually has decent holding power.

21incher

Quote from: Crusarius on November 25, 2023, 04:08:21 PM
I have been just printing with a pilot hole with 3 perimeters and then run a 10-24 screw into it letting the screw cut its own threads. it holds fine but you are correct repeated in and out they don't last. Surprisingly though, the 10-24 actually has decent holding power.
I was thinking about trying one of those specially ground taps for wood using just a 4 wall pilot hole. They are supposed to be ground differently to cut in soft materials. Next time  I place an order with Infinity that meets their free shipping minimum. Supposed to make strong threads  in wood and I would imagine pla may be just as strong.  

Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

SwingOak

You could also use a thread forming tap, they work exceptionally well in plastics because they displace material instead of removing it.   

SwingOak

I just love that now I can pretty much make anything I need. Last night, the handle of our can opener broke. It's around 20 years old but still works well enough. So, I modeled and printed a new handle, or turny/twisty thingy, and in just a couple of hours we had our can opener back in service. Works great!



 

21incher

They sure are good for a quick fix. I am thinking of trying a cheap 3d scanner for replacement parts.

After 2 - 8 hour prints I have my first packout insert done. Not 100% perfect but good enough for my m12 rt angle die grinder. I made all the walls and surfaces 4 layers and 20% infill to be safe. They used 600 g of filament each and are very stiff. Going to try and laser cut thin black rubber inserts for the bottom of each storage area. Next up my 4 chuck installation driver. Needed 2 6mm dowels to align the halves.


 

 

 
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

firefighter ontheside

 My son has been trying to print a telescoping katana sword for the last two days.  Having trouble with the sizes of the pieces so that they telescope appropriately.  He will get it figured out.

 @21incher I am going to have my son make that blink sync holder.  I tried to secure it to the side of a cabinet with an adhesive sticker.  It lasted about 12 hours and fell down.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

21incher

Quote from: firefighter ontheside on November 26, 2023, 08:09:07 PM
My son has been trying to print a telescoping katana sword for the last two days.  Having trouble with the sizes of the pieces so that they telescope appropriately.  He will get it figured out.

@21incher I am going to have my son make that blink sync holder.  I tried to secure it to the side of a cabinet with an adhesive sticker.  It lasted about 12 hours and fell down.
This is the file I used and it fit perfect  https://www.printables.com/model/574029-blink-doorbell-sync-module-2-mount
There are several others also.

Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

SwingOak

I've been sticking with 3 lines for walls so the infill lines don't show on the outside, and when I want something to be super strong just I double the infill lines (go from 1 to 2) and reduce infill to 10 or 15%. Prints in 1/2 the time and just as strong. Not my idea, I saw it in a YouTube video. It works great, give it a try - even with infills as low as 5%!

21incher

I usually use 3 lines for walls but upped this for puncture resistance if dropped.  Could hit it with a hammer without damage I bet. Just using the stock hyper pla slicer settings and making minor changes right now but hope to figure out how to just vary wall thickness in certain areas only. Going to go back to 3 for the rotary tool one that is lighter and see how long that takes. These are just under 3 pounds of filament that is overkill but a starting point. I also bought  some .6 and . 8 nozzles  that may get it down to 2 walls eventually. Still really don't  know what I am doing yet but having fun trying. 
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

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