Now it's my turn, teak sawmillshed, lol

[Ljohnsaw]

good eye OG. it's something devious. Well, the theory is that with the roller tables up side down they have a little wall on the sides, like 2", so the logs won't fall off when i send them down the line.

But now you have to cut out the cross pieces that the logs won't want to glide over.  You will need to do some re-arranging.

How about this alternative.  Will this work?  With the tables right-side-up, drill a new hole for the right side of the first roller so it sits down low, making the roller angled to the right.  Then second roller, do the left side - and so on.  That will give you a V-table that might keep the log centered?  The rollers will look like an X when viewed from the end.  Just make it that the middle of the X (top side) is higher than the cross supports so the log won't hang up on them.

[teakwood]

That would be way over complicated and would take days (the axles of the rollers are hexagonal) , i have a simple solution.
there are upper and lower supports welded in the roller tables, i cut out the upper ones and screw the hole frame to my 2x6" structure i did there
 
you can see the holes on the c channel laying on the wood, just need to buy some short screws with a big head

the first roller table has a wood wall now so the logs don't roll off



still scratching my head over this one

[nativewolf]

This all looks great, next pig roast should be in CR!  I hate to be the person that brings this up but what about waste, can you get another roller table and have it angled downward into the wall (cut a hole) and shoot the waste into a pile outside and below the mill for locals to use for firewood?  Do you have a small battery powered blower?  They are great for blowing sawdust off the mill area.  

[teakwood]

This all looks great, next pig roast should be in CR!  I hate to be the person that brings this up but what about waste, can you get another roller table and have it angled downward into the wall (cut a hole) and shoot the waste into a pile outside and below the mill for locals to use for firewood?  Do you have a small battery powered blower?  They are great for blowing sawdust off the mill area.  

good idea with the pig roast! i have the space to host such event.
don't worry about the comment, i really appreciate all the income, especially the useful, productive comments, which makes one overthink the plan, something maybe overlooked.
i know that waste will be the biggest negative point in my plan. i came up with several solutions:
Sawdust i will shoot out and put a elbow or something curved to the sawmill so the sawdust piles up aside of the mill and can be easily loaded and disposed, or the best thing would be a collection system, like i have in the wood working shop. more costs and more electrical bill
the wood waste i can throw over the concrete wall which is 3.5m high on the other side and my neighbor collects them or another guy owes me some money and can't pay, but he has a drop trailer for a agriculture tractor, i could fill it up and haul it away with the skidder.    

[teakwood]

Finished with the floor


the log deck also looks alot better now. from tree length to shortwood



next week is good lunar phase, so i will cut just like 16trees and try out the new sawmill shed!

[trimguy]

Happy Birthday 🎂 

[teakwood]

A simple solution to fix the roller tables so i can cut out the upper support, just a big head wood screw 

@sprucebunny , i took the axle out as it's stationary now and it's much easier because there is nothing standing out, so i can walk freely. put in some wooden legs because the chassis sags down with the weight of the carriage and a heavy log
 

[teakwood]

today we cut 21 trees and skidded them home, the log deck is pretty full

[teakwood]

Did some modifications to the mill

As i saw small diam wood 99.5% of the time this one lever fast rising manual backstop system will bring down my handling maneuvers  big time.

 

[teakwood]

did another mod and now i'm back to sawing, and i like all the new improvements, infeed system and the new shed and all the mods. brought down my whole process at least 30%, I'm pretty happy 

[Ljohnsaw]

Nice.  But, hmmm, where does all the sawdust and slabs go?

[mike_belben]

Probably right over that cliff hes working on.   ;D


Very slick alterations TW. The linked up lay down backstop is great!  Youll be spittin timbers out left and right now.

[thecfarm]

All the work and planning has paid off!!

[teakwood]

Nice.  But, hmmm, where does all the sawdust and slabs go?

Sawdust gets piled up aside the sawmill, will have to be shoveled out, not ideal but it's how it is. Does anybody of you guys use a dust collection system? i could buy a 2hp grizzly one for 300$, how effective are they? i mean, one thing is the shute but all the other dust that flies around?
the slabs are piled up inside the shed if i have an instant pick up from somebody

or fly over the wall to the cliff as mike suggested . i have a neighbor there who hauls them to his house for wood cooking, or if it piles up too much i will pile them with the excavator and make a big fire

[teakwood]

The linked up lay down backstop is great!

thats by far the best mod i did, just those little one handle rising stops make up for 10% of handling time

[mike_belben]

A walk behind leaf vac or air broom makes a good gas powered ["off-grid" if you wanna be fancy] sawdust blower if you do a little tin work. 

[Durf700]

good looking set up there!  what do you mostly make out of your logs?

[kanoak]

Aloha, beautiful shed and nice set up. 
I love my cliff. Built it after seeing how useful it is for quickly sorting debris at another mill. 


 
I have been running a 2hp dust removal system and it is working great. 4" tubing. 


 


 

[teakwood]

@kanoak , great shed and system, can you post a close up pics from how the 4" pvc piping is attached to the sawmill? 
How many % of sawdust do you guess you extract with the dust collection system? how much flies around in the shed and stays inside?

Thanks 

[teakwood]

good looking set up there!  what do you mostly make out of your logs?

everything! 8' wood for 0,75, 1, 1.25, 1.5, 2" thick boards. widths from 4-6". for decks, beds, doors, furniture,....
and longer wood for rafters, posts, beams
in widths i'm pretty much limited to 6", maybe the occasional 8x8 or 8x6 

[kanoak]

Aloha, still working on the mill shed and system, but I am happy with both. This is my first mockup for the dust collection and it has been working great for about 50 hours. System collects 85-90% of the sawdust, even running without the front covers on the mill. I only blow the mill off with my airbroom after sawing now. No airborne dust when cutting green wood. Dry wood varies but is not bad. I have very good ventilation, and although I am quite aware of dust I have not felt the need to wear a mask sawing yet.


 
Custom quick connect. 4" Thin wall pvc, no glue except at the cap. Pipe is cut to fit closely to the sawhead housing; the bolt on the right near the cap, and its invisible counterpart, are the only real solid connections into the metal. 




Here is the top swivel. Invisible is a ledge glued on the outside of the upright made from cutting about 1" off of a coupling. The drainpipe adaptor rides on this loosely and this seems to work very well.

I highly recommend vibration dampening the motor unit to reduce noise and unit fatigue. I mounted mine on some old shock absorber bushings. Also, a rubber coupling to the solid dust-pipe.

Much appreciation to the forum and its members; this was put together after looking at others setups and using materials at hand. I only think I bought the 4" flexible pipe and rubber coupling.

[teakwood]

Thanks for the detailed info, i'm more convinced now to invest an extra 600$ for the dust system. I'm starting to use the new shed and mill location more often now and see a problem with the saw dust. Not only does it pile up alot it flies around everywhere and gets into the wood storage alot. the shed is wide open and with some wind the dust gets all over everything. the 85-90% collection would really help alot! 

[kanoak]

The dust system is worth it for me, I save a significant amount of time on cleanup and donʻt even keep a shovel at the mill any more. Teak has one of the finer dusts of the wood I have cut; I have not tried the dust collection with it yet, but I have some thinnings that I will cut soon and let you know how it performs. 

[teakwood]

@kanoak , thanks for the info, i decided to buy the system. the engine and propeller i can buy for 200$, the hose is really expensive here, 50$ per meter and i need 4-5m. maybe there is another cheaper way to do it. i guess 500-600$ will buy me everything.

do you have plantation teak in Hawaii? what sizes? i had the best results with a woodmizer silvertip blade 1.25" is what i use, they're cheap and cut well. for my small hp mill it's perfect, bigger mills use bimetal blades.
teak is very tool damaging because of the natural oil it has in it.

here is a link of a topic from my plantations if you're interested

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=97910.0

[kanoak]

aloha @teakwood, the flex tube was expensive, I got 50ʻ for $100 shipped, but I understand how hard it can be to source specialty stuff in exotic locations.

I would say I have a small woodlot of teak; less than an acre. Ill take a little cruise here soon and get you some numbers. My dad planted the first stand, interplanted with cuban mahogany, from local seed around 1984. When I came back after high school in 2000 I pruned them and we planted more from selected imported seed. We have a large number of other species planted from 1994 on in mixed stands from selected seeds; some awesome genetics especially the toon from CATIE. I have been managing the forest, pruning and thinning as much as I have been able for the last 20 years now, and am gearing up for our first commercial thinning. 

Some of the first wood I cut on my little woodmizer lt10 was teak. I tried carbide, 4º, bimetal, and 10º bands. Settled on 10º and now cut with it exclusively. Couple of reasons. I did not see or feel much difference in the cut when the blades are sharp and the 10º was cutting faster, even in small diameter hard wood.  A lot of what I cut is much softer than teak. The main reason though is that I get free dull bands from other mills around cutting koa and they are 10º. Throw them in the electrolysis tank to blow the rust off, sharpen, set, and run ʻem again and again till they pop.

Pictures are now missing from older posts, but I totally enjoyed your plantation thread. It is inspiring to see your project and how well you are keeping up with your trees.