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Advise from those with it...

Started by EmannVB, December 31, 2009, 08:27:19 AM

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EmannVB

As I have crushed my almost new Husqvarna 350,  I'm looking for a replacement.  I have two saws that I've narrowed it down to:  Stihl MS310 and Husqvarna 455 (both with 20" blade).  I have read all I can on this site, and the reviews of both saws on Epinions.  They are almost identical in price and size/weight/performance/popularity.  The real question I have is this:  on a few of the reviews for the Husqvarna, I saw that there may be an issue with the chain jumping off.  Anyone have an issues, or personally know someone who has had the problem?
The 350 I had was a bit small, but I thought it was a good, solid, well made saw.  I can get the 455 from Tractor Supply, and with my $100 Christmas gift card, I can have it for about $320.  That's only a good deal if it's not going to fling the chain at me!

Intended use:  felling trees mostly in the 20-30" range for firewood and for sawing on my mill.  Probably cut 10-15 cord plus the milling trees.  As I'm starting to saw for my house, I'll need a reliable saw that can git 'er done.  Most of the fire wood is Locust, Oak and Maple.  Mill wood is mostly Poplar.

Other saw I have: an early 70's Homelite C-72 (family hand-me-down).  A big, heavy man-saw made in the days before "ergonomics" and "comfort engineering".    This thing is like an old truck- it aint pretty, doesn't have heated seats and GPS, but it will never let you down.  But after a day of using it, I feel like I've been beaten by a bat.

2006 TK B20, 2005 JD TLB 110, 2007 JD 4520, Stihl MS 390, Husqy 350, 1970 Homelite C72, Husky 22 ton splitter, Kawasaki Brute Force 750, and a King Ranch F350 to haul it all!

Kansas

The question I would ask yourself if I were you is, where can you get either work done on those saws, or get parts for those saws if you can fix it yourself? Lots of places sell chainsaws. Not many can fix em, and that includes Stihl. TSC does not repair what they sell, at least around here. I would really look for a place that services what they sell. In terms of total cost, a chainsaw's initial purchase price isn't that important, if you use it regularly.

paladin

 I would recomend the ms310 over the 455, and the ms310 is about 5cc's bigger than the 455 also. If you can spend the money than step up to the ms 390 it is the same size and weight of the ms 310,but it is 5cc's bigger than the ms310. The ms290,ms310 and the ms390 are all built on the same platform and range from 56cc's-65cc's.We have 3 Ms390's in our imediate family and have had good luck with them. If you are going to carry the same weight and size you might as well have more power to go with it. Or step up to the ms 361 which is a pro model, a little lighter but the same hp as the ms390. The ms361 has had great reveiws over the years, but you will be happy with any of them just happier as you spend more $.

gemniii

You won't got wrong with either, but one of your locations is the Stihl factory town.  Do they have factory specials?

Stan snider

I bought a 455 a couple of years ago and have been disappointed in it for the most part. The chain jumping off is no joke. Even after beveling the insides of the rails it still does occasionally. It had a carb rebuild when if probably didn't have 20 hours on it. Sold by chain farm store with no dealer support. When everything is perfect it will really cut but that does not seem to last long. On the othe other hand I have a 345 that I found alongside the highway,new,in a case, chain had never been sharpened. It is a very nice saw and with the smaller chain will go through a log as fast as the 455. MUCH less energy used when running this saw, mine and gasoline. I reach for it every time unless I need a couple inches more bar. Someone was sure disappointed! :( Stan

John Mc

Other Husky options to consider:

359  more of a "pro-built" saw than the 455. The 359 has almost 1/2 more HP, and weighs about 3/4 of a pound less than the 455. People around here generally run 3/8 pitch chain on this, but I've also seen it with .325 pitch. List price is around $529.

346XP a pro saw, reputation very good. 1.8 pounds less than the 455, but still has slightly more HP. Husky recommends .325 pitch chain on this. List price $489.

I'm guessing the 359 might be more suited to the 20"-30" firewood trees than the 346XP.

If you want to spend big bucks, look at the 357XP. Lots more power, still about 1/2 to 3/4 pound lighter, but a lot more $$.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

EmannVB

Thanks for the replies/advice!

Unfortunately, living near the Stihl factory get me nothing in terms of discounts!

I just went and looked at the MS310. It's $419, and $44 for the case, but with the case comes 1 free chain (hmmm... chisle or skip-tooth...) so net out the door is ~$460.  I looked at the bigger models, but they're quite a bit more $$...IMO.

I like the flip up gas/oil caps... anyone have a problem with them breaking?

Leaning a bit toward Stihl, especially with a forum member confirming the chain jump issue with Husqvarna.
2006 TK B20, 2005 JD TLB 110, 2007 JD 4520, Stihl MS 390, Husqy 350, 1970 Homelite C72, Husky 22 ton splitter, Kawasaki Brute Force 750, and a King Ranch F350 to haul it all!

Cut4fun

Just throwing this out there. You can get husqvarna 365 speical for $599 tax free and free shipping  ;) Same weight basically of the 290 310.

Then if you ever wanted a bigger saw you can put a 70.7cc 372, 74.66cc 372xpw, 76cc big bore aftermarket if needed for a rebuild too.


SawTroll

I dislike the 290 series saws for several reasons, but the 310 sure will work better than the 455 (that I also dislike, but not for as many reasons) in 20" wood.

Information collector.

downeast

Quote from: EmannVB on December 31, 2009, 12:10:30 PM
Thanks for the replies/advice!

Unfortunately, living near the Stihl factory get me nothing in terms of discounts!

I like the flip up gas/oil caps... anyone have a problem with them breaking?
Leaning a bit toward Stihl, especially with a forum member confirming the chain jump issue with Husqvarna.

If I were that close to Va. Beach HQ, I'd do some serious G2 on the company to find a friendly  employee contact.  8)

Flip caps are better than sliced bread IMHO. No worry about tools to open or crack caps in the cold. You can use the flip caps ( a.k.a. "Flippy Caps" ) with mittens.
Only con: the threads and flip mechanism have to be free of debris before closing.....not a big deal. Especially after one time getting the fuel mix over your pants in the wrong places. ::)




EmannVB

I too like not having to use a tool to open them.  I was just wondering if they hold up well.  I could envision busting the flip piece off, and then not being able to open or close it!

I'm pretty certain it will be a Stihl...

I'm going to list my new, but broken, 350 on Ebay, unless anyone want to make me an offer I can't refuse!  Handle is cracked, and trigger is missing- aside from that, it's as new as can be.  Maybe 5 hours on it before the Poplar was  :(
2006 TK B20, 2005 JD TLB 110, 2007 JD 4520, Stihl MS 390, Husqy 350, 1970 Homelite C72, Husky 22 ton splitter, Kawasaki Brute Force 750, and a King Ranch F350 to haul it all!

downeast

Quote from: EmannVB on January 01, 2010, 05:37:03 PM
I too like not having to use a tool to open them.  I was just wondering if they hold up well.  I could envision busting the flip piece off, and then not being able to open or close it!
I'm pretty certain it will be a Stihl...


3+ years with the MS260 flippy caps: in serious cold, wet, silly abuse and misuse, saw dropped while fueling in snow and on rock.   ::)    Maybe I should have logged the cords and hours, but I'm too non-compulsive to do it.  ::)
So far so good----NO problems. Well engineered and built. Stihl will not allow me to get a piece of the company except to buy the products.
Now, if only they could do a Stihl 346XP clone...................... :D

peterc38

Just my two cents and I don't know what your budget is, but for 10-15 cords of hardwood a year plus whatever you cut for milling of the size trees you are describing I'd want a 60-70 cc pro grade saw. Forget the 455 or ms310

60cc= ms361
70 cc= 372xp
Kubota L4060 Cab
562XP
371XP
346XP
Fiskars "Super Splitter"
Logrite 60" Peavey
Huskee 22 ton splitter
2 Great Danes

cheyenne

If it were me I'd go with a Husky 359 with 20 & 24" bars or better yet pick up a good used 372XP & use the gift card for oil & chains...............Cheyenne
Home of the white buffalo

EmannVB

372XP on Ebay is $799 with free shipping.  But it has an 18" bar, so I'd need to add at least a 20" bar and chain...That's pushing $900.  Wife might throw the flag on that one! "...upon futher review, the ruling on the field stands.  The 372XP IS necessary..."  :)
2006 TK B20, 2005 JD TLB 110, 2007 JD 4520, Stihl MS 390, Husqy 350, 1970 Homelite C72, Husky 22 ton splitter, Kawasaki Brute Force 750, and a King Ranch F350 to haul it all!

John Mc

I keep seeing new Husky saws on eBay. I thought Husqvarna put a halt to internet sales a few years ago. How are these guys doing it? If they are not an "official" Husky dealer, how are they getting a good enough price to compete with those who are dealers?

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

jteneyck

If you intend to use the saw for milling get a pro model.  Milling is really tough on a saw as you are running it full throttle under high load for long periods of time.  65 cc is the minimum, and I wouldn't use that on much of anything wider than 12".  I have a 385XP that I bought on the internet about 5 years ago for about $750.  I run a 28" bar for milling on an Alaskan Mill, occassionally up to nearly 24" logs.  It is tough on the saw, and a sharp, really sharp, chain is key to efficient sawing.  I've found Oregon's ripping chain to work best.  If I had a Logosol or similar set-up, I'd go with a 24" max. bar and use a 0.325 chain or the Stihl Pico chain, which would mill faster.   

I occassionally use the 385XP with a 20 inch bar for bucking logs.  It's like a knife through butter in nearly any wood, but it is heavy and I prefer my Husky 55 or MS290 for anything up to 18" or so.  In your case, the 372XP or whatever the equivalent Stihl is sounds like a good compromise.  Whatever you choose, use a really, really sharp chain when milling, with lots of lube.   


Jim Spencer

I have a Logosol with a Stihl 066.  I hardly ever use the 066 for anything except milling.  I use a Stihl 028 with a 16" bar and .325 pitch for almost every tree and log I cut to length.  I also have an outdoor furnace and burn about 30 cord of firewood a winter.  Heat my wood workshop quite a few days here in southern Michigan.
I find that if I keep the chain sharp I can cut anything up to about 30" diameter about as fast as any larger saw.  I also have an 029 and only use it if I get the 028 hung up for some reason.
Really like the 028 and never feel like it is too small for anything.  Sure cut a lot of wood with it.

EmannVB

Sorry for the confusion JT.   I have a bandsaw mill, I would use the chain saw to fell the trees for the milling process- not for use in a chainsaw mill. 

2006 TK B20, 2005 JD TLB 110, 2007 JD 4520, Stihl MS 390, Husqy 350, 1970 Homelite C72, Husky 22 ton splitter, Kawasaki Brute Force 750, and a King Ranch F350 to haul it all!

jteneyck

Sorry for the confusion JT.   I have a bandsaw mill, I would use the chain saw to fell the trees for the milling process- not for use in a chainsaw mill. 
=========================================================
In that case, the saws you are considering should do fine.  Personally, however, I'd still go with a pro or prosumer saw if you're cutting that many cords per year, something around 65 cc.  Weight really matters if you want to cut for several hours, but a saw that doesn't bog down gets the job done quicker.  Finding the right combination of weight and balance, HP, and $$ is always a compromise for the intended job.  And, as others have said, unless you are going to work on the saw yourself, buy local from a dealer you have confidence in.  Even if you do all the maintenance yourself, having a dealer nearby for parts and advice is still good.  Having worked on both Stihl and Huskys quite a bit, at least the ones I've owned, I can tell you that Stihl's are built like a battleship, but Huskies are elegantly simple and, therefore, easier to work on.

ford62783

the 455 isnt a great choice many repair shops here wnt touch them if u buy them from a box store and they do jump chains alot more for sum reason but im not a fan of the 290 either if ur cutting that much wood and milling with the saw ur best bet might be to check at local saw shops for a used saw that was traded in usually can get a pro model for around 300 to 400 depending on size around here and sumtimes for less
timberjack 240e

EmannVB

So I decided on the Stihl MS 310 and went to purchase it today.  Walked out with a 390 instead (310 wasn't in stock...I'm a sucker for the up-sale).  Saw, case, extra chain, full tank of gas & bar oil, plus the Uncles share - $540.70
2006 TK B20, 2005 JD TLB 110, 2007 JD 4520, Stihl MS 390, Husqy 350, 1970 Homelite C72, Husky 22 ton splitter, Kawasaki Brute Force 750, and a King Ranch F350 to haul it all!

beenthere

Quote from: EmannVB on January 21, 2010, 12:45:03 PM
So I decided on the Stihl MS 310 and went to purchase it today.  Walked out with a 390 instead (310 wasn't in stock...I'm a sucker for the up-sale).  Saw, case, extra chain, full tank of gas & bar oil, plus the Uncles share - $540.70

Good on your purchase....but there was no federal tax on it, was there?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

EmannVB

Quote from: beenthere on January 21, 2010, 03:38:32 PM
Quote from: EmannVB on January 21, 2010, 12:45:03 PM
So I decided on the Stihl MS 310 and went to purchase it today.  Walked out with a 390 instead (310 wasn't in stock...I'm a sucker for the up-sale).  Saw, case, extra chain, full tank of gas & bar oil, plus the Uncles share - $540.70

Good on your purchase....but there was no federal tax on it, was there?

The Uncle has family in VA too!  ;)  Maybe 1st cousin.
2006 TK B20, 2005 JD TLB 110, 2007 JD 4520, Stihl MS 390, Husqy 350, 1970 Homelite C72, Husky 22 ton splitter, Kawasaki Brute Force 750, and a King Ranch F350 to haul it all!

des170stihl

Quote from: downeast on January 01, 2010, 06:07:59 PM
Quote from: EmannVB on January 01, 2010, 05:37:03 PM
I too like not having to use a tool to open them.  I was just wondering if they hold up well.  I could envision busting the flip piece off, and then not being able to open or close it!
I'm pretty certain it will be a Stihl...


3+ years with the MS260 flippy caps: in serious cold, wet, silly abuse and misuse, saw dropped while fueling in snow and on rock.   ::)    Maybe I should have logged the cords and hours, but I'm too non-compulsive to do it.  ::)
So far so good----NO problems. Well engineered and built. Stihl will not allow me to get a piece of the company except to buy the products.
Now, if only they could do a Stihl 346XP clone...................... :D
I own a ms 260 with flippy caps and I think they are great. The only thing I would.nt want is Stihls toolless chain dodad. I would take it off and put the regular clutch cover and 19mm bolts on.... 
STIHL MS170* STIHL MS260 Pro* STIHL MS 230* ECHO CS 341* Husky 339 XP * Wallenstein 20 Ton Splitter* Massey Ferguson 1528 w/Grapple ( Skidder Wanna Be ).

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