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F.F. pavilion build.

Started by Jeff, June 05, 2020, 01:00:32 PM

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Jeff

Do we have any members near me making 6/4 t@g for visible sheeting on a pavilion?    I need to purchase about 300 square feet. Problem is the length. My structure is 16' with one foot overhangs. So 18 feet is perfect, everything else is waste. My rafters are 3.5  by 7.25 on 4ft centers, so nothing comes out right with out waste.

I can special order it from menards is the only place I can find it, and I really really REALLY don't want to do business with Menards.

I have read, understand, and agree to the terms of posting an ad on the Forestry Forum.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

barbender

I don't have anything like that Jeff. But I am glad you read, understand and agree to the terms of a Forestry Forum ad😁 
Too many irons in the fire

Southside

If you can figure a way to make the shipping economical I have the capacity to make it. 
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Jeff

Man, thats a long ways for what, less  than 500 bf.

My brain isn't  working, but wouldn't 9s and 10s work without a bunch of waste?

End rafters are 5.5x7.25s. Others are 3.5 by 7.35 at 4 foot centers. 1 ft overhang

Roof area per side, 18 x 8'1.5"



Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

btulloh

That's what I'd do.  Stagger the laps.  Trim the ends after they're all on.  You just sounded like you were set on using full length.  Plus you've got nice wide rafters so laps would have plenty of purchase and be easier to nail than lapping on a standard 1.5" rafter.  Easy peasy.

And you wouldn't have to pay a commission for doing commerce here.   :D :D :D :D  BIG savings right there. 
HM126

Jeff

The amish product is 8'  That just dont work out. To expensive to gave a bunch of drops.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

doc henderson

can you mill the boards and have the Amish guys (if nearby) mill the tongue and groove?  or do a ship lap or spline on your saw?
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

btulloh

Yeah. 8's and 10's could work, but not with the current rafter spacing. Any standard length would still leave a lot of waste. I've adjusted my rafter spacing a few times to make the material work out better. Maybe add 1 rafter. Pick spacing starting with the two middle rafters. I've even spaced them a little different on the two outside rafters to make it work. Should have a lookout on the overhangs anyway, so visually it can work. Maybe the look of the equal spacing is a must have. Maybe not. Just personal preference. Set the sail or sail the set?  Yes. (Sailing reference.  Stink-potters wouldn't get that. . . )
HM126

Hilltop366

14' & 5' (10' cut in half) would only be 1' of waste per row. If I figured that right.

Jeff

I think the decking should be dried, and I dont have the logs to saw that out.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

doc henderson

If you plan to run long a little extra is good.  Only 6 inches on each end and a nice fresh cut.  could even make the over hand 18 inches and or taper from 12 inches at the edge to 18 inches at the top to add some visual interest... not that it will need any more.  just ideas from another guy who hates to waste much.  I know they have little hardware gadgets for deck floors, any chance you can use reg. 2 x 6 lumber with fasteners to keep the boards even across the span between the rafters?
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Jeff

Its more about the look I think. I dont thing there would be much sag in 45 inch span on 6/4 but shrinkage could create funky gaps in time.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

btulloh

Yeah, you get to choose the look.  That's what counts in the long run.  There are ways to get there, just a matter of finding the way that suits you.  In the end, having a bunch of waste may be the best choice, even though most of us like to minimize the wasted material.  Might actually be cheaper or at least acceptable. 

I wonder if @DonP has seen this post.  This is right up his alley.

That structure looks like a good place to have a pig to pick on.
HM126

Don P

I've seen it ... I drew Jeff's current problem :D

Y'all have hit all my solutions. TF is nice but wider spacings can be a problem for efficient material use. I even tried that 19.2 and 24" spacing in regular framing and came to the conclusion that in the end they were not really saving anything unless you do very careful planning of everything.

Whatcha think of the look of the bracing?

btulloh

Ha.  I should've known you had something to do with this.

I like the bracing.  What is it?  Repurposed stuff already on hand?  Or . . .

One other thought hit me:  Wider overhangs on the end.  May help with material usage, or at least the waste becomes part of the roof.  I've chosen 1ft overhang before because it looked generous on the drawing.  After it was done, I looked up and wished it was longer.  Just food for thought.
HM126

Don P

I had thought the same thing on the overhangs, just dangle it out there and pick a happy point. If Jeff were only closer, I'm just up on a tea break from dropping pine, could make em any length. I'll let him fill you in on the bracing I was just curious on what you thought of the look. I used to think I had perfect taste, that has been challenged before :D

Back to the fun part, that one is all over but for the mountain of limbery in the front yard  ::)

Jeff

In going to move this topic to the tf and log building board and use it for the build topic. Im getting stuff scattered and dont want to be reported and or punished.
:)

Riteleg is the hero on the bracing. I called Tamiam and she grabbed Kevin. I gave them my idea, they ran with it and sent me a pdf, I sent back my tweeks and we were golden.  They were cut out this past week. Just need bent welded and powder coated.

I was contacted by a guy this morning that wants some year old red pine sawn and may want to saw on shares. Its on longer lengths. This may be my answer to the sheeting.

I'm under construction this morning. Last 2 days i was down with a double root canal. I got up today lean and mean and raring to go. If you know anything about me, you know that when I got to the bottom of the first hole and this came up, it was a very good sign.



 

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Don P


Dan_Shade

Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Jeff

I don't  know if this is a thing, but I decided to put handkebare on my post to guide it in the hole and to be able to adjust it easily. I just moved them to each posts.  I am within 1/16 max measurement measuring at ground, or top, post to post and diagonally.  Now I have to level the tops and it will be ready for the first beam.  I'll raise my beams with an elevator I will make from harbor freight crank boat winches.


 

  
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Walnut Beast

Quote from: Jeff on June 06, 2020, 03:20:08 PM
I don't  know if this is a thing, but I decided to put handkebare on my post to guide it in the hole and to be able to adjust it easily. I just moved them to each posts.  I am within 1/16 max measurement measuring at ground, or top, post to post and diagonally.  Now I have to level the tops and it will be ready for the first beam.  I'll raise my beams with an elevator I will make from harbor freight crank boat winches.


 

  
Your project is looking good Jeff👍

btulloh

Quote from: Jeff on June 06, 2020, 03:20:08 PMI don't  know if this is a thing, but I decided to put handkebare on my post to guide it in the hole and to be able to adjust it easily.


Don't know if it IS a thing, but may become a thing now that you showed your handlebar.  That would be really helpful when setting posts without a helper.  Simple and quick and handy.

Looking good.
HM126

Jeff

And even better with a helper. Those 6x6s are heavy. I had a concrete cookie (half a 4" solid) in the bottom of each  hole and it made it really easy to adjust the posts, and much easier to get the post in the hole without knocking dirt and stones down on the cookies.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Jeff

Here are the beam jacks I came up with. 2 harbor freight hand winches lagged to two- 2 by 8s (Tom Tom. Tripleword)


 

 
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Brad_bb

I don't know if you got it settled yet, but my first thoughts were - is this just for sheathing, is there roof paper/synthetic and roofing going on this?  What wood species are you looking for in the T&G?  I would definitely add another rafter or two preferably to reduce the span.  Get the span down to 2-2.5 feet and you could use 1x.  I'm assuming you don't have boring bees (carpenter bees) there because that would dictate what wood type you use- no softwood.

It would be much easier for someone on FF to supply rough sawn boards and have someone else on the forum dry them and have someone else machine them if you can't find anyone to do all three.  I doubt anyone will have finished material in stock.  Actually all you need is air dried boards down to 12% since this is going outside.  So if Someone could supply air dried boards, and then find someone to plane, edge, and T&G them....
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

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