Our Latest Sawmilling/Woodworking/Timberframe Adventure

[Larry]

Your bar tops got the boss all excited.  She is thinking about something similar for a kitchen island counter.

Few questions on your choice of finish.  Do you consider it superior to something like Behlen Rock Hard?  How hard is it to renew/repair? And finally what brand?

[MemphisLogger]

Your bar tops got the boss all excited.  She is thinking about something similar for a kitchen island counter.

Few questions on your choice of finish.  Do you consider it superior to something like Behlen Rock Hard?  How hard is it to renew/repair? And finally what brand?

Larry,

We chose the pour on epoxy because I was concerned that any other film finish would either be too soft (spar varnish) and get gouged-up quick or too hard (Behlens) and chip if dented.

This was my first time using epoxy on a woodworking project but from my experience with surfboards and sailboats, I knew that it's plasticity would allow it to stretch with movement and "rebound" from impacts.

The epoxy we used was Kleer Koat #30 from US Composites. They were the least expensive but also had the best instructions and support. The support was key as pouring $100 worth of finish in one shot is scary.

As for renewing, the epoxy can be sanded back and another layer added at anytime. Right now our topcoat is about 3/16" thick. Due to financial contraints, we used gym floor polyurethane to seal the bottom side and so far we seem to be doing alright. If I had my ruthers, I would use the epoxy on the bottom as well but that would have required some creativity as I cut the joints with the bartop installed.

The joy of the epoxy is watching the finish level out on its own to a glass-like finish as you draw bubbles to the surface with a heat gun. While the slabs we used were mostly solid, there was a few dotty areas that the epoxy filled perfectly. Where one table had a through pith check running down the middle, we let the epoxy seep through and then taped the bottom and it worked great.             

[OneWithWood]

Very nice work, Scott.  It is a great feeling when a project comes together.  8)

[Burlkraft]

Epoxy is a slab furniture builder's best friend. ;D ;D ;D

I've got a desk in the works that has about 4 gallons in it right now. When I get back ta workin' on it I'll post some pics.

[Ga_Boy]

Scott,

Did you dry the ERC in your kiln?






Mark

[MemphisLogger]

Nope, I never kiln dry ERC.

[Stephen1]

Do you use the epoxy even if the wood is not dry? I am just starting to learn abot these processes. I have some rounds cut and a couple of small slabs and am wondering what to do with them. Finnish wise.

[MemphisLogger]

I think you'd have problems with blushing under the epoxy if it was too moist. The Cedar slabs I used for the counters on this job had air dried outdoors for almost a year and then in my shop for at least another year. The meter read them at 10%. I think that's fine for inside here in Memphis.

[Mooseherder]

You'll need some type of heat gun to get the air bubbles out. A  hair blow dryer doesn't work well as it blows too hard. I had good results with a handheld propane burner.
Also, plan for your edges before you pour so the 2 part epoxy doesn't roll of the sides. For a square edge, use blue tape about 1/2 inch or so above desired thickness/edge. You can also bevel the tape to have a beveled finish on the edges.   If your working on concrete, put cardboard under your piece in case ya get drippage. :(
Don't ask me how I know.

[MemphisLogger]

We had 2 electric het guns going for at least 30 minutes after our biggest pour. It was just over 3 gallons combined so we did it in 2 batches, pouring from both ends to the middle in a zig zagging pattern.

As soon as the buckets were poured, we used foam brushes to spread the over the surface, making sure to wet the entire surface and edges but leaving the bulk of the epoxy in the middle of the slab.

The epoxy in the middle then slowly flows out to and over the edges with a little prodding. The open time was 10-15 minutes and we shot bubbles with the heat gun for another 30 minutes.

We had filled the dotty areas and bug holes with a "sealing coat" of the same epoxy the day before the big pour, so the bubbles really weren't that bad. I'd hate to do one of those tops where there's pictures and coins and whatnot laid up in it--I imagine the bubbles would be never ending.