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husky enuff?

Started by turningfool, December 23, 2006, 06:53:03 AM

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floorboy

I am in dowagiac, mI. that is about 1.5 hours from GR.

rebocardo

I use a Husky 365 all the time cutting mostly oak. The toughest thing to cut is rotted wood, totally bogs the saw down and clogs up under the clutch cover. That is with a 28" bar running full skip.

There is no way you are cutting at max RPMS in white oak with a 36" bar. Even the Husky 372 is recommended for 32" max. bar length.

imo, WAY WAY WAY too much bar for that saw. I have cut a 54" oak with my 365 running a 28" and it took long enough.

I would suggest investing in a new 28" bar and (3) chains of 30RCS from Baileys. Because of dog length, bar tip, etc. that will limit you to a 52-53" wide cut without getting too fancy, cutting a normal notch from the left and right sides. On this tree you might have to wing both sides, but, because of the rotted appearance, I suggest the following instead.

For occasional use JUST for the felling, a 32" inch bar with 30RCS might be barely acceptable. I certainly would not use it to buck the tree. The slower the chain, the greater the chance of kickback and just plain killing the saw. 32" bar would allow you to easily cut down a 60" diameter tree without too much risk.

When cutting a rotted dead tree the last thing you want to do is go slow. You want to make the back cut (plunge or not) as quick as possible before gravity and tree defects start taking over.

Please wrap that tree with chain before starting. looking at the latter pictures I would not want it to barberchair or anything else.

FWIW: I would hook a cable and truck to that tree and shake it before I started cutting to make sure bark and trunk are not going to do a widow maker on you. A slab of bark and wood falling even from 30 feet can put a serious hurting on you.


turningfool

thanks for the info rebo..its much appreciated..the main reason i use the 36 is for cutting off slabs from 25" logs for my hat making..it seems to work great for that,but i will cosider getting a 28 incher after the christmas bill are paid :o

SawTroll

Quote from: rebocardo on December 28, 2006, 08:36:27 PM
.....
I would suggest investing in a new 28" bar and (3) chains of 30RCS from Baileys. Because of dog length, bar tip, etc. that will limit you to a 52-53" wide cut without getting too fancy, cutting a normal notch from the left and right sides. On this tree you might have to wing both sides, but, because of the rotted appearance, I suggest the following instead.
.....


I believe about 2 1/2 x effective bar length is possible, if you bore trough the notch and make a "fan" in the senter of the tree.
Information collector.

jokers

Quote from: SawTroll on December 29, 2006, 12:07:58 PM
I believe about 2 1/2 x effective bar length is possible, if you bore trough the notch and make a "fan" in the senter of the tree.
Yes, or we also call it beavertailing

turningfool

you might very well be hearing from me floorboy

rebocardo

> if you bore trough the notch

I would not walk in front of this tree to make the notch from the other side, never mind bending down in front of it as I take its support away, while boring though a notch.

imo,  That is just asking to get killed or squished.

BTW: I like that wood hat, hard to believe it is made from wood. I think you would be able to sell something like that easily on E-Bay

floorboy

turningfool if you pm me I will give you my numbers.

PB Logging

My first post and its going to sound like a fish story but here goes.  Last week I took on an 8' dbh mulberry, located 10' from the house. and 15 or so feet from two sheds and  a garage. There was about a 30 degree window in which to work with out hitting a building, narowed down to a ten degree window to avoid any of the trees in the homeowners orchard. I had 2 ' to play with to clear the corner of the house.  ice storm put a great deal of the tree top on the house,  sheds (one crushed) and garage 01DEC06. 

Began by striping what remained of the tree out from the bucket truck and then blocked the log down to about 35' tall and 48" diameter or so.  After I blew up a section of brick paver sidewalk when one of the 48" rounds got away from my ground guys. I said "(&)*(^&)^&() it" and decided to drop what remained witout further blocking.  I had originally planned to block out more wood but re evaluated and adjusted accordingly to overcome.  The log was now low enough I could stay off the neighboring church property, out of the fruit trees and off the structures if all went well.


Ran a 3/4" 8 strand bull rope through the pulley on front of the bucket truck.  Ran out the line and then attached that to the F700 dump truck that we had set up in the neighboring church parking lot.  fueled up my 088 with 48", 395xp with 36", a 345 w/ 16" and an old Jonsered 970 with a 3' for back up, a 5 gallon bucket full of an assortment of wedges (mostly plastic but a couple steel), 3 # sledge and an axe.  tail gate meeting with crew, driver in bucket truck, driver in dump truck, a ground man in front of me to relay my instructions to the trucks and me. 

I began with a Humboldt face cut 40% deep with the flat at well above my waist.  began the back cut and sank 4 x 6" wedges. At 75% of back cut I stepped away, re-evaluated and proceeded.  stacked 4 wedges, drove them hard and continued back cut to about ~5% of holding wood.   To get the angle I wanted on the fall I shimmed up on the Northeast side of my cut (was looking for a west south west fall.  Centered, set, then hammered a large steel wedge to send the log over. 

When the log hit the ground it felt like I  lifted out of my shoes just a touch.  At no time did either truck pull ourside the initial tension that was set on the rope.  I then spent the next two hours blocking out the log into pieces the guys could load into our large hand truck (rated at #1500) so that they could move it out to the boulevard for pick up by the maniacs that follow us around for the free wood (there are six different guys/families that I call evrery friday to advise as to where we left wood piled up and without fail it all disappears every weekend). 

I gave great consideration to the removal of this tree.  The use of a crane was considered and had the crane I've worked with in the past been available it would have been utilized.  The potential to life, limb and property was great.  Had the resources avaialbe to me been less I would have polietly refused the job.  I've been blessed with a good education which has been supported by ten years of hard experience (resulting in my back being broken twice and surgical repair of my right wrist following an 044 bite to name just a few specifics). 

I havn't taken the time to tell this tale only so taht I can brag to a group of nameless/faceless people, however wonderful you all are.   I'm tired, its late - I don't want to offend but the moral of my story is be safe.  Always, be safe especially when you factor in unsafe nature of working with standing timber.   

Whatever your experience may be - the suggestion that a massivly oversized bar be used on a small/mid size saw to address the tree you described is foolish.  Again, I do not mean to offend...  I suggest that you take a step back and further evaulate this job ( if that doen't convince you try the view from a block away).  I strongly advocate working with-in the parameters of the resources avaialbe.  Getting away with something is a really bad teacher...


If all else fails give me a shout and I'll sell you the 72" bar with .404 chain off the God-foresaken 090 that sits way in the back of the shop taking up space. 

Have a safe day and good luck.


Ed

Welcome to the Forum PB Logging.
That sounds like quite a tricky removal!
I can't help thinking about the mess that Mulberry tree would make each year when the fruit ripened.  :D :D I can also imagine the mess from the birds would have been quit considerable also.  :D :D

Ed

turningfool

point taken pb..the 72" bar is out!..ty for the info.  b safe always! ;D

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