Hello, quick question- (did a search and couldn't find the answer)
What is the typical groove size for 2" t & g (EWP) flooring? I plan on using a radial arm saw with a dado or cutter head, grooving both sides of everything, and using plywood splines.
Quick question back.. what is the thickness of the plywood you are making splines from?
probably 1/2" which would actually be more like 15/32. So, I would go for a 1/2" groove... I figure once its planed down, these 2" rough boards will be more like 7/4
1/2" groove seems about right to me, intuitively
Since you mentioned radial arm saw, I used one with a molding head to tongue and groove my flooring...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26833/Molding_Head.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26833/Fence.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26833/Corob.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26833/TG2.jpg)
Thats exactly what I need..........now to find a molding head for my saw!
You can find old molding heads on eBay all the time. There are basically two types: Craftsman and Delta-Rockwell (the blades are not interchangeable). I recommend the 3-cutter, Delta style (about 3-5/8" in diameter) for the radial arm saw. Corobcutters.com use to manufacture the cutters for Delta and still makes new blades for them today (also new molding heads). FYI: Corob sells blades for both styles. I like the "wedge tongue and groove design". However, the blades are only 1 inch wide. For thicker boards, you need an extra pass through the saw to clean off the residual on the tongue side. It's nice to have two molding heads so you can just swap the heads instead of changing the blades. Of course, a higher power molder/shaper would be better, but the RAS is what I have to use.
Can a table saw be used to do this? Of course an extra-tall fence attachment would certainly help and I would suppose that the lower-HP direct drive saws like mine wouldn't work well, but could it be done?
I have a carob cutterhead and use it on my old craftsman table saw. It work fine and I was surprised at how easy it cut and what a good job it did...
Herb
If you wanted to use a molding head on the table saw, you would want the larger molding head. If I put my Delta 3-5/8" molding head (or Corob MHKHD50) on my table saw, it's too small in diameter to raise it high enough to reach the top of the table when I crank it all the way up. You would most likely need the Corob MHKHD75 head (which has a total diameter of about 7 inches with the knives installed).
I think it's a little safer molding board edges on the radial arm saw or shaper since the boards lie flat on the table. Although you can do it, I think it's more cumbersome running long boards up on edge against the fence on a table saw.
You're better off using a shaper if you've got one. I just finished up 8000 square feet of siding and used two shapers to make quick work of it. If you want to use a table saw to make the grooves use a dado stack. It'll do pretty good work. I feel like most of the time grooves tend to be about a quarter of the thickness of the wood.
I suppose I will get a shaper. Within the next year or so I have a bunch of T&G to cut for paneling inside my home. Thanks for the advise y'all...