Manual mill trailer build questions.

fishfighter · March 09, 2015, 08:10:10 AM

I'm fixing to start building a trailer for my mill. Can't do any milling due to all the mud and a lot more rain to come.

Question I have is how wide of a axle is one to use? Any trouble pushing the mill head around the tire?

I am even thinking of building a side walk way on the side of the milling /push side of the trailer, but going up and down steps kind of has me saying no.

21incher · March 09, 2015, 08:53:38 AM

The width and location of the axle will determine the center of gravity on the mill going down the road so you don't want to go to narrow which could cause it to become unstable on sloped turns. I built a small trailer for my mill and used tires that were small enough that the mill would clear them and they are not in the way when pushing the mill down the tracks. The first thing you have to do is determine the working height you want for the mill and then see what size tires are available for the load rating you need. Then you will know if the mill will clear the tires based on your mill construction. If it doesn't I have seen cases where the wheels and fenders have to be removed when using the mill. Post pics of your build.

goose63 · March 09, 2015, 04:42:20 PM

Here is mine hope this helps

the axel is 6inches back form center

fishfighter · March 09, 2015, 06:55:29 PM

Goose, you went off there trailer plans? Did you build the axle? There plans are stating like 38" wide pipe axle with detachable hubs.. I'm not a fan of that due to I will be moving the mill in rough stuff. ;D

schmism · March 09, 2015, 06:57:56 PM

If you look at the trailer packages for any of the moblie mills, there is about 4" clearance between the inside of the rubber tire and the outside of the frame rail of the mill.

If you use a standard 15x5 5-4.5 wheel that should have a 3" backspace. so figure the tire is 8" wide.

if you want 4" clearance, 3" backspace plus the 1" extra for tire width, would give you a hub face to hub face measurement of 16" wider than the frame rail of the mill. eg frame of the mill is 36" wide, face to face axle width =48"

goose63 · March 09, 2015, 07:08:49 PM

@fishfighter I went off there plans and bought the axel rims spring package from pioneer rim and wheel will go out in the morning and put a tape on it for ya

21incher · March 09, 2015, 07:29:11 PM

Here is the trailer I built. I wound up going with 12 inch tires to leave room for the fenders that are required for a trailer here and they were perfect for achieving my desired working height. Also I added a loader that uses a farm jack because I do not have a way to lift a log that big.

For the axle, springs, hardware, wheels, tires, coupler, lights, and wiring I purchased a harbor freight trailer and cut the axle to my required width.

fishfighter · March 09, 2015, 08:20:26 PM

21, I have to go with full size tires due to mud. I like your lift, but I have a backhoe.

Thanks goose.

homesteader shane · March 09, 2015, 09:01:41 PM

I put a trailer under mine adout 5 years agoe and still love it today. I run on alot of gravil roads and have had to pull it into a site with a tractor because of mud. alot of people ask if it trows the mill head out of squar but the sawmill aways runs true

justallan1 · March 10, 2015, 05:47:14 AM

@homesteader shane that's pretty much exactly what I want to do for a portable setup. Are you using springs on yours or just inserting a stub axle into a receiver on the tracks? Do you have any close up pics of it?
I'm thinking of using stub axles and real wide implement tires off an old John Deere round baler and going without springs.

fishfighter · March 10, 2015, 05:55:31 AM

Quote from: justallan1 on March 10, 2015, 05:47:14 AM
@homesteader shane that's pretty much exactly what I want to do for a portable setup. Are you using springs on yours or just inserting a stub axle into a receiver on the tracks? Do you have any close up pics of it?

This. I like that set up. For my main beams for the trailer, I was planning on using some Ibeams from a house trailer that are about 12" wide. I even though of doing a reverse spring set up. But I really don't need springs at all due to I will only be moving it around on my place.

justallan1 · March 10, 2015, 06:19:37 AM

@fishfighter if there is much farming and haying going on in your area you may find an old junk or burned baler free or cheep. The ranch I work for has a burned one and 2 that are just old and used up. I'm not sure about the John Deere, but on Case balers the hub assembly and stub axle are held on with one bolt, so you have everything already made.
I decided to go the free route and tore into an old airplane hangar and got 2x6x¼" channel to use. I'm figuring just my tracks are going to weigh well over 1,000 lbs. and know for sure the axles will be strong enough.

homesteader shane · March 10, 2015, 07:23:44 AM

the I beams are the key of holding everything streaght. No i dont have and springs with the mill head moved to the front of the mill and locked it uses the supeson of the truck for the bumps. Iv had zero problem towing it with this setup on the highway at 90 or sideroads

The winch at the back lifts the mill fram up to put the axil in place. once its installed i push the mill head to the back and the it counters the tounge weight and make it light enought to pickup

justallan1 · March 10, 2015, 08:07:14 AM

Thanks. I do like that setup for lifting it up and would guess a guy could weld a receiver on the side and use the same winch for parbuckling and turning if he had to. Very cool indeed.

fishfighter · March 10, 2015, 08:47:47 AM

Homesteader, thanks. I am going to go with the way you built yours. I do have a backhoe that I can lift it to pull the axle as needed. Taking along some timber 6x6 ers to put under would put my mill at the right height for milling. I do have a heavy axle on a old trailer that I could make do if I figure a way to make it removable. ;D

I see that you bolted the rails to the Ibeams. Would there be any problem just welding them on?

homesteader shane · March 10, 2015, 09:16:28 AM

the olny reason we do that was if things get bent its easey to get off to replace. ald it give me alittle adjustment if needed to align everything

Joe Hillmann · March 10, 2015, 10:02:40 AM

Quote from: homesteader shane on March 09, 2015, 09:01:41 PM
I put a trailer under mine adout 5 years agoe and still love it today. I run on alot of gravil roads and have had to pull it into a site with a tractor because of mud. alot of people ask if it trows the mill head out of squar but the sawmill aways runs true

That is about the same process I go through to set up my mill except the axle stays in place and I just unbolt the wheels from the hubs. With my wheels on I can't roll a log up my ramps, I can't cut less than 3 inches thick for my last cut and for large logs it is too high.

ReinkeFandS · March 10, 2015, 10:27:35 AM

I just finished my trailer, and for what it is worth I would do a few things just a little different. I had an axle from a 2000 utility trailer that I cut down to fit exactly under the frame but once I assembled the mill the carriage was too wide and hit the tires. I bought wheels spacers so it was an easy fix but I think 21incher's design above is way better for the spring mounts to keep the axle wider. Also I went with 1.5"x3" 11 gauge tube (cost and weight) but would go with 7 gauge next time for less flex.

ReinkeFandS · March 10, 2015, 10:34:29 AM

@homesteader shane, I like your set up too

Hale87 · March 10, 2015, 01:13:26 PM

It never ceases to amaze me some of the ingenuity you see on this form!

fishfighter · March 10, 2015, 01:21:54 PM

Well, I'm going to have to hold off for some time. Yesterday getting out of a lounge chair, I popped my right hip/leg out of place. Had to go in today to see the Doc. It's back in place, but hurts like hell.

I'm falling apart, piece by piece. :'(