Swing mill gearbox

[bandmiller2]

Some of you guys that have built your own swing mills what did you use for a gearbox??Frank C.

[Firebass]

You might find some info here.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=15613.msg350029#msg350029
If not email me privetly I'd be happy to share what I know.
Firebass

[woodbowl]

Firebass used Curtis model # 211. Brand X uses model #215F.

What have you got in mind there Frank. Tell us all about it. Don't hold back now.  ;)

[Dave Shepard]

Sounds like he's fixin' to do some inventin' and fabricating. ;D


Dave

[bandmiller2]

Trying to get somthing past you guys is like trying to sneek daylight past a rooster.I find the swing blade concept very interesting but hard to figure the mechanics especially the verticle and horizontal cut intersections.

[Captain]

Build one with an electric motor...no gearbox required...

I'm struggling with the electric or diesel decision currently.  If fuel does not stop increasing, electricity is going to win.

Frank, is your bandmill stationary??  I run into some resawing occasionally that would be better on a bandmill.

Captain

[Firebass]

I like the electric Idea.  It wouldn't be all that much more to mount a electric motor on a gas powered unit w/ the gearbox.  Then you could use either gas or electric.  I have a fairly simple design for my gear box.   As for the mechanics, it's no different using a electrical motor than a gas one both need the swing to be 90 degrees the only differance is that the gearbox input shaft need to be centered on the axis of the 90.  if you can handle that part it's a piece of cake.  Using this also allows you to easily change speeds for differant sized blades.

Firebass

[scrout]

Trying to get something past you guys is like trying to sneak daylight past a rooster.I find the swing blade concept very interesting but hard to figure the mechanics especially the vertical and horizontal cut intersections.

Bandmiller2,
As far as I can tell, the pivot point it related to the diameter of the blade and it's cut width.
So for a 17 x 1/4 inch blade, doesn't the pivot point have to be 8.5 minus 1/4 inch?

I am looking to build a swinger also (after the bandmill......) and am thinking about a design similar to the SkillMill, but with a 7.5 HP single phase, no gearbox, just offset belt drive, nice and compact.
Hopefully to fit onto the existing bandmill carriage.

[woodbowl]

So for a 17 x 1/4 inch blade, doesn't the pivot point have to be 8.5 minus 1/4 inch?

I'm not sure, but I would think that the pivot point would be exactly half of the dia. of the blade minus 1/16 inch to create the step on the wood.

[Firebass]

Yep guys your on it.  I had to shim out my saw arbor 1/8" because I got a unexpected over cut groove in the wood about a .032" deep.  By shimming it out I make more cut on the log than it would without the shim.  Consequently no more groove.  I would say better to shoot for the center of the blade than the edge.   I also made my rotation adjustable so that under or over sized blades will work.   Remember,  if your using a Lucas blades it's they're metric and rounded off to the nearest Inch size.  I think this is where my error came from.  Using a electric motor you wont run into this too much but you should count on spending some time getting the axis  adjusted just right. 

Scrout
Welcome to the forum,
Your welcome come take a look at mine if you'd like.

Firebass

[woodbowl]

I had to shim out my saw arbor 1/8" because I got a unexpected over cut groove in the wood about a .032" deep.  By shimming it out I make more cut on the log than it would without the shim. 

I should have said "plus" to create the step instead of minus. I would be making an overcut as well.

I also made my rotation adjustable so that under or over sized blades will work.

I've seen rotation points in pillow block bearings and teflon or UHMW stock, what did you use and how is it adjustable?

[Firebass]

My main Indexing plate has individual adjustable slots for Achieving  the exact 90 degree rotation of saw.  This adjustment is seldom used after initial set up but its a good addition to compensate for wear of the latching mechanism should it ever need to be tightened up.  Then I slotted a secondary plate and made it so the that overall plate assembly can be adjusted for saw horizontal levelness.  This makes a simple left / right horizontal plain adjustment and works very well. I just loosen the bolts level the bladen tighten them back up.   I use the chain adjusters for front to rear horizontal plain adjustment.  So the Only other adjustment I need is vertical blade carriage left right.  I just used shims for this.  I plan to make a simpler adjustment for this but it rarely if ever needs adjustment.

Dangerous Dan may have some good points about using a electric motor.

;D

Firebass

[Firebass]

Oh :  Another good reason to make a  adjustable index plate is that it can be set up for milling siding as well.  I just haven't made the duel slot indexing plate for setting the saw at the siding angle  as well as square.   

[bandmiller2]

Thanks guys for info so quick.I can see the advantage of elect. the whole motor can tip really don't need a gearbox.

[bandmiller2]

Captain, now my bandmill is stationary, built to be portable but my log turner and clamp is run with 220v. once you get a mill set up and leveled log brow set up you hate to move it.Electric power is the balls I'am not sure how expensive it is to run a large 3phase converter with the price of diesel now it must be competitive.I'am sure some of the guys here know.Frank C.