Little Things Can Make You Mad!

[DR Buck]

One of the reasons to buy new is to avoid having to deal with all the little problems that can be 'hidden' in a piece of used equipment.  It doesn't take to many 'little' problems to add up to lots of time wasted fixing things that you didn't plan to be fixing.  

I've put about 6 hours on my NEW LT 40 Hyd and have already spent way to much time fixing things that shouldn't need fixing.

The first problem was encountered on my first log and is still not resolved. The forward saw head movement stops part way into a log.   Following advice given in this forum to another new WM owner  that reported similar symptoms, I spent time trying to tighten the drive belt to no avail.  I soon discovered that the problem was related to the speed control.  If it stopped and I increased or lowered the speed the head  would start to move again.  I soon discovered that if I tap on the control sometimes this would make it move also.   I guess next weekend will be spent taking the control panel apart and trying to troubleshoot the problem.
 
The second problem was discovered today when greasing the mill.   When I pulled the grease gun off of one of the zerk fittings on the log turner, it  pulled the zerk fitting right out of the hole.  The threads on the fitting are stripped.  I was going to replace it, but it appears to be a non-standard size that I don't have in my grease fittings kit.  I'm not sure the if the hole is stripped or not, but I was able to 'push' the stripped fitting back into it for the time being.   I don't know when I will get around to fixing this , but most likely, I will have to tap and re-thread the hole to take a standard fitting thread size.
 
Has anyone else purchased a new WM and run into any of these "little" problems?  Are there any others I should be expecting?

(Sorry if it sounds like I'm venting, but I am frustrated.)   >:(

[Kevin_H.]

Dr buck, I too have a lt 40 hd 24.

Now mine is a 97, so I dont know how much they have changed, but on the grease fittings...Mine are simply pressed in, I have had a couple come out while greasing, I have had to drill out and tap the hole in order to get a new fitting in.

Sounds like your feed control problem is in the varible speed control?   Although I have never replaced mine, you should be able to take out the 8 screws holding the front control panel on, there is enough wire to pull this panel forward and give you room to work.  The speed control should be easy to replace, I think 3 wires?

I would call WM first thing monday morning, I would bet the speed control will be on its way u.p.s. by that afternoon.

I think I would hit them up for some extra grease fittings if you are interested in pressing them back in.

I know how fustrating it can be when all you want to do is saw.

[Bibbyman]

Dr. Buck,

We bought our first Wood-Mizer in 93.  It was a manual mill.  Everything worked well and only required minor and normal adjustment for quite some time.  I don't remember anything going wrong that wasn't explained by normal wear and use. But it was a simple mill.

Our 2002 model LT40 Super is quite a bit more complex.  Within the first few days we found a small hydraulic check valve cracked and was leaking.  Even though the damage may have been done when we transported and installed the mill,  Wood-Mizer offered a simple field fix and sent us a new check valve.  

We also found that one small spot on the blade shielding was too close to the blade and it would dull the teeth on the down side of the blade.  We fixed that with a slight bend using a Crescent wrench.  We reported the problem to WM and they offered the same fix.

First thing you should do when you have a problem that is not easily solved is to call Wood-Mizer.  They will help you through problems like this.  They are available during normal work hours and then some and some hours on Saturday (I think 'till noon).  They are the quickest and best help available.

Could be your speed control switch is defective or some other component.  And the problem you describe indicates that's the case.

But it could be something as simple as the drive chain too tight or too loose.  Also,  9 times out of 10,  when the head stops say 6-12" into the log,  I'd check to see if a chunk of bark or sappy sawdust has bounded up the chain drive.  It'll be hard to spot the debris where the saw head stops as the blockage will be at the drive sprocket behind the shielding.  If you back the head up about a foot and look just ahead of it (check the underside of the chain too),  you'll see it – if it didn't fall out.

Also,  if you are sawing wood with sticky sap, it could be building up a lump on track bed rod.  Check and clean that off and give the rods a light coat of ATF.  Clean and re-oil the wick under the rod shield under the sawhead.

The components on a new mill are fairly tight and stiff.  So any kind of debris may cause the sawhead to drag of stop.

We've had bark and sawdust build up behind the sawhead frame and the bed frame (behind the battery box) - especially in below freezing weather.  This chunk of junk can bump into the bolt heads sticking through the frame – thus causing the sawhead to stop or drag in one spot.  A little nudge or a little more "juice" and the head will sometimes move on.

Good luck and give the Wood-Mizer guys a chance to help you.

[gmmills]

DR
  Changing the feed rate switch only takes15 minsat the most. Take out the 8 screws from the control panel and pull the panel out slowly.  Set screw on feed rate knob,thin nut holding switch assembly,and three wires on the back of switch.
  The grease fittings are 3/16" drive type no threads . I picked up spares at my local NAPA store. Before you drill and tap try a new fitting first . Put mine back in with a soft faced hammer or block of wood, which ever I could find first. If  hole is too big try taking center punch and make a few punch marks around outer edges of the hole. This should shrink the diameter of hole enough to hold the fitting.
  I agree with Bibbyman,call Woodmizer first and explain your problems. Follow the phone prompts and connect to electrical advice. Ask for Rick or Gene . Good guys,met them both at Indy. They will go above and beyond for customer. They have for me a few times and I've always been satisfied.
  Good Luck.

[Percy]

What Bibby, Kevin, and gmmills said is about exactly the way to go. The WM guys have tamed me more than once with their helpfull, no nonsense attitude. Ive always gotten knowledgable intelligent info from them and warranty when the sitiuation was iffy.. ;D ;D

[Haytrader]

I assume there is a warrenty on WM saws.  ;)
If I only had six hours on it I would not try to fix anything until I talked to the company.
WM owners (here on FF) have talked about how good WM staff and service are so give them a chance to correct the problems you are haveing.
Some people are better than others with mechanical things. Things like the problems you describe are just going to happen around machinery so you will have to learn to look for the little things that are frustrating you like Bibbyman pointed out.
Best of luck. I hope you will tell us next time that all is resolved and the sawdust is flyin.
  

[ronwood]

DR_Buck,

I picked up my new mill from Indy a year ago this weekend. I have not really any problems other than recently my hydraulics would either respond slowly or not run at all when my saw head was in a certain positions on the rail.

Called Woodmizer and the tech directed to me clean the rust off the bottom rail and clean the contacts on the bus bar that provides power to the hydraulics. I did has they suggested and problem has gone away. They have always been very helpful. I would give them a call in the morning and I am sure they will help you fix the problem quickly.  ;) ;)

[VA-Sawyer]

DR_BUCK,
Did Woodmizer help you out?  Are you happy now?

VA-Sawyer

[ARKANSAWYER]

DR_buck
  Man I feel your pain.  They should not make any thing that will not work right off the shelf.  My mill is only 3 years old and has danG a million bdft on it and I have  had to replace 3 things on it.  I realize I have knocked some paint off of it and dragged it over 30,000 miles and in 4X4 up creeks but I did pay $21 grand for it.  Made in America does not mean any thing any more. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
   Look to see if your guide pins on the side are rubbing on the side of the round rail on top or bottom.  Ther are set up with so much clearance but the paint makes them hit.  I took a  nylon buffer and buffed the paint off of my rail top and bottom.  It would drag some when new. (no problem now)  I just wipe it with ATF and wipe it down at the end of day and after road trips.  I have never had a bearing fail.  Just sounds like you are a bit tight.  Them grease zerts just pop in and out.  
ARKANSAWYER

[GF]

I would check the bearing if that is what you were greasing when the zerk popped out, I have seen this in bearings made in China, normally they use zerks measured in mm instead of inches.  Could also be an american bearing in a China made bearing frame.