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Is there an industrial swing saw ?

Started by rfa, January 30, 2006, 01:13:04 PM

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rfa

I like the idea of the small less expensive, thin kerf blade, and  cutting and edging in one cycle.   But, I don't need to be portable. and would like something heavier then the Peterson or Lucas swing saws.  Are there heavy-duty swing saws ?  I'm thinking making one.  Any ideas of what issues I might find with gyroscopics of rotating a turnig blade ?

Captain

Define heavier...heavier duty??  The only thing that would make an ASM more industrial would be a set of steel log bunks.  That is commercially available.  Many have purchased WM bed sections for this job or fabricated from scratch. 

I'm in the middle of plans for a building to setup an automated swing mill in permanently, I'm tired of working in the rain and having to come in a dark.

Captain

Buzz-sawyer

Quote from: rfa on January 30, 2006, 01:13:04 PM
I like the idea of the small less expensive, thin kerf blade,


Yea...but thier aint one :D :D :D :D
In order to be inexpensive , a blade losses the characteristics needed to be dependable, or thin....
I toured Menominee saw show last summer and saw a lot of blades being built....but not the one you described...or I woulda bought it :)
If you like circle mills the blades peterson and lucas use are pretty neat, and inexpensive.....

compared to heavy commercial blades which cost about $2000 now.
sounds like what you may want is a Mobile Dimension or a mighty might.....OR BETTER yet contact Lindsey at D&L double cut and have him make what you want.....
Are you gonna build one yourself....I have worked on severaland would be glad to help. :)
    HEAR THAT BLADE SING!

jpgreen

Take a look at Petersons' thin kerf blade.  Full 6" cuts.

That's pretty awesome..  8)
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

Dangerous_Dan

First you make it work, then you trick it out!

jpgreen

Just when I thought it was finally safe to go back outside..  :o..............  :D
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

thecfarm

Dangerousdan sticks again.Boy,you gotta love this guy.I went to work and told everyone about that outdoor furnace of yours.Everyone was impressed.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Dangerous_Dan

Don't worry it's still safe to go outside, the mill is not done yet but I'm working on it.
First you make it work, then you trick it out!

fencerowphil (Phil L.)

Hey, rfa,

have you checked this:

http://www.brandxsawmills.com/

Phil L.
Bi-VacAtional:  Piano tuner and sawyer.  (Use one to take a vacation from the other.) Have two Stihl 090s, one Stihl 075, Echo CS8000, Echo 346,  two Homely-ite 27AVs, Peterson 10" Swingblade Winch Production Frame, 36" and 54"Alaskan mills, and a sore back.

rfa

Yeah BrandX looks like a nice machine alot heavier.  But I want to build my own What is that Dangerous_Dan thing.  Thats what I'm talking about.  I was thinking about a electric motor.  How many horse ?  What RPM and what are you useing for a blade ?  Were can you get blades for these.  I like it.  Please tell me more.

Dangerous_Dan

Motor is 15 hp 3 phase.
Blade is the Simmonds 8 inch cut Lucas copy from Bailey's. $150
I currently have it geared for 2500 rpm but I'm told the lucas blade should run at 3600 rpm.  Anyone have experience running this blade at different speeds? I have not even run the motor yet.
The frame is 2 inch OD .095 wall, round tubing (another great scrapyard find, 30 brand new pieces still bundled with tag, $95).
What else you wanna know??
First you make it work, then you trick it out!

rfa

How do you have the different axis rigged for movement I saw some chain in one picture ?  Any automation ? What is the overall dia. of the blade and the kerf width ? I heard the bradx has holes through the blade so you can spray water on one side that will go through to cool both sides. that sounds smart.

woodbowl

Quote from: Dangerous_Dan on January 30, 2006, 10:20:14 PM

The frame is 2 inch OD .095 wall, round tubing (another great scrapyard find, 30 brand new pieces still bundled with tag, $95).
What else you wanna know??

I wanna know if you bent that tubing yerself or if it already had some bends in it.  ;D  ........... What gearbox are you using? What Ratio? When is the first test run?
Full time custom sawing at the customers site since 1995.  WoodMizer LT40 Super Hyd.

GlennG

Dan,

Very nice, its apparent that you have put much thought and planning into your mill. I`m building a 90 degree dimensional mill, using 2 Bailey blades, 2 Kohler engines.Wish I had 3 phase power here.  I hope mine turns out as nice as yours. Nice job.

Glenn

thecfarm

rfa,if you want to read about Dangerousdan outdoor furnace and his other projects,click on to his name on the above reply,this will bring you to his profile page.You should see Send A Message,Read Posts,click on to Read Posts,this should bring you to Show Posts,you want Page 4,post 67.Lots of interesting projects here.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Dangerous_Dan


Horizontal cut.

Vertical cut.

Motor and pulleys.

The vertical height is controlled by a gearbox and #40 roller chain. 1 turn of the handle is 1 inch, each spoke is 1/4 inch.

The track and wheels came from a Frick 01 carrage.

Glenn- I don't have 3 phase either. My shop has a converter but I don't know if it can run 15 HP. If that don't work plan B is to run it off a 30Kw Onan genset I use to power my current mill. If 15 HP is pleny I might try a 10 HP single phase if I can get one cheap.
Woodbowl- I used a GreenLee conduit bender. There is no gearbox, just belts. Nice and simple. I don't know the ratio off hand but 2500 rpm was my calculatd blade speed for the pulleys that are on there. First test run in a week or so.  I hope. Everything takes many times longer than I think it should. Progress is slow.
First you make it work, then you trick it out!

getoverit

YOU DA MAN!!

I'd pay just to watch ya fire that thing up and try it the first time ;D

There's just some deep dark manly hormone that enjoys seeing a big pile of scrap turned into something really useful. My hat goes off to ya !

YOU DA MAN!!
I'm a lumberjack and I'm ok, I work all night and sleep all day

Dangerous_Dan

Here's an update.
I tried running it with my shops phase converter (5 hp motor running as a  rotary converter). No good. Motor starts to spin and breaker trips.
Plan B. Onan genset relocated to outside my shop. Motor now starts and runs nice.





First you make it work, then you trick it out!

jpgreen

That is awesome Dan,

I need that very deal to hang my Husky 3120 chainsaw from with a long bar to slab monster logs.

How time consuming is the frame to make?  smiley_beertoast smiley_beertoast  smiley_beertoast



-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

rfa

Do you think the 15hp will be enough for hardwood ?
Did it seem ridgid enough ?
Good job looks great 8) 8)

D._Frederick

Dangerous_Dan ,

That is some mill, it looks like to did a lot of planning before you started to cut iron. I have a couple of questions:

I looks like you welded every thing solid and didn't allow for adjustment of the pivot bearings. How did you do the alignment to get them dead on?

The other question, I don't see any hold-downs to keep the wheels from jumping off of the track. With a 15 hp motor, if you lock/pinch the blade that motor has enough torque to make things happen. It may not be a problem, I haven,t seen Peterson address this as a issue.

That is one nice job, looks real good!!

Dangerous_Dan

You need to look a little harder to see the pivot adjustments.
One end of the pivot adjusts up and down with a 3/8 bolt pushing up on the flange bearing.

The other end of the pivot adjusts left and right using bolts on both sides of the bearing.

I used a magnetic level on the blade to make the initial adjustments.
There are no hold downs for the main carrage wheels or the rollers on the sawhead.
It's not done yet.
I need to add a lot of things including a water tank, metering valve and solenoid.
Some type of resetable setworks for the sawhead moving side to side.
The list goes on and on.
When I get some more things done I'll do more testing.
Thanks for the interest in my project. :)

First you make it work, then you trick it out!

woodbowl

Quote from: Dangerous_Dan on February 01, 2006, 04:37:42 PM
Here's an update.
I tried running it with my shops phase converter (5 hp motor running as a  rotary converter). No good. Motor starts to spin and breaker trips.



Dan,
  How did you make your phase converter? If I remember right ............   ::)   the working motor and the convertor motor need to be matched up as the same Hp.  It would take 3, 50 microferid capacitors and two relays to make a homemade phase convertor. I've got the plans around here somewhere, they are probably availible on the net as well.  It looks like you got it working good. What's next? Have you spotted any bugs yet? What about automation, or will you keep it manual?  Congratulations for a fine achievement.
Full time custom sawing at the customers site since 1995.  WoodMizer LT40 Super Hyd.

GlennG

Congrats Dan......Awesome! This inspires me.

What did you make the saw blade mounting flange and arbor shaft from? I`m making mine on my lathe from scratch but I looked for  commecially available parts for a while before giving up and making each piece.

Glenn

getoverit

Dan,
I gotta admit that this is one of the most interesting threads I have seen on the forum yet. your ability to make something out of nothing just plain amazes me.  I am SOOOOOOO interested in seeing how you automate that monster, and the improvements you make on it.

The only suggestion I could offer for now, humbly speaking out of fear, is to please make some sort of guard for the blade. I'd hate to see a genius trip and cut himself in half before the world can get a good look at this GREAT creation you have birthed :)

You da man!!
I'm a lumberjack and I'm ok, I work all night and sleep all day

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