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Author Topic: linseed oil as end seal????  (Read 3977 times)

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Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #20 on: December 20, 2018, 05:22:53 PM »
Some latex paint, especially interior non-gloss, breathes too much.  Anchorseal only costs about $5 per MBF of logs coated.  This is a small cost for quality logs like cherry, walnut, hard maple, oak, etc.  Note that some species have a greater risk of end checks than other species. 

In any case, coating ASAP is critical because coating prevents checks but does have much effect on slowing existing checks.
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Offline farmfromkansas

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #21 on: December 23, 2018, 06:55:22 AM »
Do the log end sealers adhere to the log ends when they are saturated with water?  When I brought the walnut logs home, water seemed to be pouring out.  Figured the end would have to dry a bit before anything would stick.  Certainly latex paint would have had problems.
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Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #22 on: December 23, 2018, 08:32:47 AM »
Because Anchorseal is in water, it will stick to a wet end, but water pressure from the inside, often from bacterial infected wood, can blow the coating off.  I suggest coating as soon as possible and then repairing any coating that comes off.  With an valuable species like walnut, you can afford the cost of a good end sealer, like Anchorseal, and afford giving the ends a second coat.  Be careful however in freezing temperatures, as the exuded water can freeze and the Anchorseal will coat the ice but not the wood.
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Offline Brad_bb

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #23 on: December 24, 2018, 12:11:18 AM »
This discussion has come up a lot.  Anchorseal is not expensive when factored into the cost/board foot.  Nothing works as well.  It applies very smoothly as a water based wax formula, and dries rather quickly leaving a good wax coating.  Just get Anchorseal and stop being penny wise and pound foolish.  You'll lose more in wood defects from not using Anchorseal than you'd ever save trying to use something else. I think Anchorseal comes in as little as a quart, but I couldn't ever see getting it in that small of a quantity.  I buy it 5 gallons at a time.  

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Offline nybhh

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #24 on: December 24, 2018, 01:32:26 AM »
Like everyone else,  I have used Anchorseal(2) almost exclusively and like it a lot.

HOWEVER, I ran out recently and tapped into some leftover end sealant I had from an ipe deck I built a few years ago.  The lumber supplier included a quart with my order and I had just enough lefover to coat the ends of a couple of logs.  

Anyway, the stuff went on much thicker than Anchorseal and although it is too soon to tell if it works better, I think I prefer it and a single coat feels about like a double coat of anchorsel.   It cost about the same for a 5-gallon pail and I have NO affiliation with this company although their deck oil is great too.

https://www.deckwise.com/ipe-seal-end-grain-sealant.html
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Offline Tom the Sawyer

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #25 on: December 24, 2018, 12:15:02 PM »
nybhh,

I checked out the link.  They say that it is applied at a rate of 500 square feet per quart.  AnchorSeal recommends 100 square feet per gallon.  Do you get anything near 500 square feet of coverage per quart?
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Offline nybhh

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #26 on: December 24, 2018, 12:52:55 PM »
Thats a good question.  If my numbers are right.  An 18 diameter circle is 1.75 sf per side so 3.5 sf per log.  Would a full quart have covered 142 logs?  No way.  

I usually slather it in with an old chip brush and just based on the thicker consistency, I think it might  cover less based on my application methods but at 100sf per gallon, your only getting 28 of those logs per gallon with Anchorseal and that seems a little low for me maybe?  

Hmmm, I think coverage is probably about the same if your painting it on. Hard to say though because I didnt have that much left and I tend to make a mess with that stuff when its cold and Im in a hurry  :o

Edit:  I just re-read their website and I think they are recommending 1 qt per 500sf of DECK.  Assuming a 10 x 50 deck of 5/4x6s. That 50 of length is going to give you about:
50 x 12(inches per foot) x 1 (thick) x 2 sides = 8 sf per quart or 32 sf per gallon?  It goes a lot further than that on large surfaces and went further than that on my deck.
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Offline charles mann

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #27 on: September 24, 2021, 06:08:45 PM »
Dredging up an older thread. I rescued a big pecan and got 3 gal of anchorseal 2 from amazon. I used a whole gallon on 1 log, the biggest log too, but still, 1 gal on 1 log with 4 cuts to seal. At what point do you stop applying the sealant? I started on 1 end, worked my way around, then when i went back, i noticed the end i started on didnt look like i applied nothing more than water to it. So i reapplied till it stopped sucking the sealant up. 

Did i use to much? 

Iv got 4 or 5 more logs i need to coat, and iv read at least 2 coats, but at what point? 1st coat, let dry in 3-4 hrs, then reapply or apply till it stops soaking in? 

Since the logs have been down 3-4 days, im gonna water the ends several times once i get them relocated off the ground and within reach of the hose, then apply the sealant to the damp ends. 

Any advise is appreciated. 
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Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #28 on: September 24, 2021, 10:13:53 PM »
With Anchorseal, the thickness of the coating is not a big issue.  A thin continuous coating is adequate.  Two thin coatings will assure a continuous coating.
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Offline charles mann

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #29 on: September 24, 2021, 11:01:51 PM »
With Anchorseal, the thickness of the coating is not a big issue.  A thin continuous coating is adequate.  Two thin coatings will assure a continuous coating.
So i kinda over did the application. I know the log didnt have 100sf of surface area. 
Im hopping the last 2 gallons of sealant will be enough for the remaining 5 logs. 
I did get a gal of elastomeric polymer roofing coating from a box store for the other not so critical logs. 
Thanks for the insight. 
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Offline teakwood

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #30 on: September 25, 2021, 08:37:55 AM »
I have never ever seen anchorseal, less used it.

we use melted candle wax, as cheap as it gets, just one coat.

the only negative point is you need a little heater (cookplate, spiral warmer, camping burner,...) then you need to handle the hot wax, but if you overcome these obstacles it's really easy and cheap. but if i read you guys having to apply 2 coats of a very expensive product then it looks alot better for the wax.

Side note: the hotter the wax the better, should smoke out of the pot when you take it off the fire. then it sucks it right into the wood fiber  
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Offline charles mann

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #31 on: September 25, 2021, 11:24:10 AM »
I have never ever seen anchorseal, less used it.

we use melted candle wax, as cheap as it gets, just one coat.

the only negative point is you need a little heater (cookplate, spiral warmer, camping burner,...) then you need to handle the hot wax, but if you overcome these obstacles it's really easy and cheap. but if i read you guys having to apply 2 coats of a very expensive product then it looks alot better for the wax.

Side note: the hotter the wax the better, should smoke out of the pot when you take it off the fire. then it sucks it right into the wood fiber  
An oxy/acet cutting rig provides a portable source of heat, and could melt larger batches. 
I have used linseed oil and bees wax  in the past and it seems to work. Id have to do a financial analysis between wax, wax and oil, and anchor seal. Some here thinks its being cheap and pinching pennies, but that is their opinion. 
The upside to anchor seal or of similar sealants is its portability and application compared to wax or wax/oil a d needing a heat source to melt/mix then concoction together. 
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Offline WDH

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #32 on: September 26, 2021, 08:27:32 AM »
This brings up a thought.producing high quality finished lumber consistently takes the right processes, procedures, and equipment. If you only ever produce one board, then nothing matters much as you can even hew it out by hand, let it air dry covered, bring it inside a heated and cooled space for three months to finish drying, and plane it down by hand to finished thickness.  You can get by with minimal equipment and expense.

Now, what if you had to do one million boards?

So, it you are producing many boards consistently, a quality end sealer like anchor seal becomes a vital, significantly important part of the process and home brew methods, while cheaper, will have you throwing dollars to save pennies in loss of time and efficiency.

It all depends on which cat you are trying to skin.
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Offline teakwood

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #33 on: September 26, 2021, 09:04:55 AM »
An oxy/acet cutting rig provides a portable source of heat, and could melt larger batches


I bought a small one pan electrical spiral heater for like 15$ new, it still works, but i do small batches at the time 
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Offline charles mann

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #34 on: September 26, 2021, 11:34:30 AM »
Even if my slabbing mill was complete there is little chance of me ever producing millions of BF. 

The home brew iv done in the past may not be a water based sealant but its still a sealant and the wood i coated it with has lasted 3 yrs and the wax is still covering the ends and looking at the diff between the untreated is drastically different in end cracking within the same species from the same logs. 

Im not saying 1 is any better or worse than the other im not pushing one way or the other for hm brew or commercial, oil or water based sealant and one is no cheaper than the other to buy or make. 


An oxy/acet cutting rig provides a portable source of heat, and could melt larger batches


I bought a small one pan electrical spiral heater for like 15$ new, it still works, but i do small batches at the time

Not sure how small of a batch you are talking, but iv made 3 gal batches and wasnt near an elec source so dragging the torch set over was easy and i also used the stove in the house. 
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Offline Stephen1

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #35 on: September 26, 2021, 06:40:12 PM »
I find I have troubles drying wood that customers bring in that is sealed with paint. I think that it bocks the vacuum from drawing the moisture out of the end of the wood. the anchorseal or nothing is the best. The anchor seal will melt and now the moisture will come out. 
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Offline charles mann

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #36 on: September 26, 2021, 07:11:57 PM »
I find I have troubles drying wood that customers bring in that is sealed with paint. I think that it bocks the vacuum from drawing the moisture out of the end of the wood. the anchorseal or nothing is the best. The anchor seal will melt and now the moisture will come out.
You trying to dry a whole log or do they paint the entire the surface of the boards? I dont see how painting just the ends, even if the paint leeches 2-3 in on each end, prevents the rest of the wood from drying. 
Plus im not looking at painting, im talking bout linseed oil (is a wood sealant in the first place) and wax, or anchorseal. 
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Offline beenthere

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #37 on: September 26, 2021, 07:38:07 PM »
Linseed oil may be thought of as a wood sealer, but it is not a vapor barrier sealer like wax.. water vapor still moves through linseed oil coating.
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Offline charles mann

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #38 on: September 26, 2021, 08:02:55 PM »
Linseed oil may be thought of as a wood sealer, but it is not a vapor barrier sealer like wax.. water vapor still moves through linseed oil coating.
That is why the wax is melted in with the oil. To cover the ends to lessen the evaporation.
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Offline Don P

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Re: linseed oil as end seal????
« Reply #39 on: September 27, 2021, 07:35:28 AM »
Something kind of related I've observed. On large timbers and logs, a coat of linseed oil or similar does slow the surface drying down. Coating the whole thing helps especially in the early framing when sun and wind are working over green timbers.
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