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Help with primitive sterilization box

Started by Jim gaster, September 23, 2021, 10:42:47 PM

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Jim gaster

I plan on using 500 watt halogen lamps to heat my box. Its insulated to r13. Its 6' w x 14' L x 2' tall. 

Any suggestions on how to cycle the lamps to maintain temperature?

How hot do I need for 8/4 and 10/4 to kill bugs and or set pitch?

Ianab

Something like this for temperature control? (Random Amazon search). But it can be set from -40 to 212F, has a fancy display, and can switch up to 15 amps. So it should do the job. 
Amazon.com: Inkbird Temperature and Humidity Controller ITC-608T Pre-Wired Dual Stage Thermostat 120VAC 15A 1800W ETL Listed Mushroom Greenhouse Homebrew : Appliances

Bugs die at about 135F, held for a couple of hours. Thicker wood just means it takes a little longer for the heat to work in to the core. 

Pitch setting varies. If you heat the wood to 140F, that will kill the bugs, and the lighter parts of the pitch should evaporate. The wood shouldn't bleed (much) unless it goes over that temp in the future, then heavier chemicals in the pitch can still start to melt and run. So 150 or 160 might be used, which will of course do a number on any bugs even quicker. 
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

caveman

Ian, the Ink Bird thermostat controller that you shared the link to may be the cat's meow as far as controlling sterilizing temperatures.  We have to do a little repair to our box - I got it a little too hot on the last load.

If we were to plug our 500 watt lights into the controller, set the desired temperature, will this apparatus just turn power to the lights off and on as needed to keep the temperature at the desired level?  

Thank you for sharing this.
Caveman

doc henderson

this is a great idea.  not sure how much you plan to do in each batch, but you will have to allow for some room between the lights and the wood.  and prob. a fan to move the heated air around.  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

samandothers

Jim do keep us appraised as you progress.  I have thought about doing one of these too.  I enjoyed caveman's build.  If you don't mind as you go share how you plan to construct the box and type of insulation.  Also what type fan you use.  Inquiring minds you know!
Thanks

KenMac

If you need more amperage than the previously mentioned thermostat you can always use the t'stat to control contactors to bring in the heat source. Then your amperage is only limited to the power available. Just use contactors of appropriate rating and coil voltage. Good luck.
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willscot

Keep in mind the wattage rating of that controller. 1800 watts will run 3 -500 watt bulbs.
15 amps at 120 volts = 1800 watts, so that particular controller will handle all the power available on a 15 amp circuit. 

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