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Author Topic: Wood Mizer kiln settings  (Read 346 times)

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Offline Woodslabs

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Wood Mizer kiln settings
« on: November 25, 2021, 05:47:34 PM »
Hi all, 

I have the woodmizer kiln unit.  Currently the compressor turns on when the setting gets 2 degrees higher than what is set to.  I for example find that on my kiln at the beginning of the cycle the wet bulb stays around 86.7 or so.  So the compressor doesn't turn on unless I trick it by temporarily messing with the settings manually.  Is there a way to change this?  My kiln might have moisture leaks so may be why it wont get higher than that but it works well.  This is kind of annoying.

Anyone know if there is a way to reprogram it to turn on at 1 or 1.5 degree increase?

Offline K-Guy

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Re: Wood Mizer kiln settings
« Reply #1 on: November 29, 2021, 08:04:09 AM »

There is but it will cause your compressor to start and stop a lot more and shorten it's life. We figured 2 differential was the best compromise. There should be in your manual or you can get our manual on our website. 
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Wood Mizer kiln settings
« Reply #2 on: November 29, 2021, 09:15:59 AM »
What unit are you running?    

At your 86.7 WB, what is your DB?

If your WB is below the set point, and there is more than 10 degrees between the DB and WB temps, the wood is drying very well whether the compressor is running or not and will not stain white wood, which is a general rule of thumb.  

If you are not at a high enough or desired WB, or do not have 10 degrees separation, (Depression) then increase the DB by turning on the heat strips, and then as the temps come up in the kiln, either the WB will come up as moisture evolves off the wood, or the WB will stay the same, which means the wood is dry.  

The compressor doesnt dry the wood, it only removes moisture that has come out of the wood and has been absorbed by the air.  The difference between the WB and DB is what is removing the moisture from the wood.  

A leaky kiln is not a bad thing, except for energy costs, as it lets moist air out, which is all a compressor is doing.  However, leaky kilns require more energy to maintain the heat and temps required for the moisture to come out of the wood.  


Take steps to save steps.

If it wont roll, its not a log; its still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, theyre burned, and you cant fix them.  So dont burn the cookies.

Sawing is fun for the first couple hundred boards.

Offline Swernicus

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Re: Wood Mizer kiln settings
« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2022, 01:35:30 PM »
I had this same problem, and YH helped me identify that my kiln chamber had 2 big leak points allowing warm moist air to escape.  If your leaks are like mine then they are allowing too much moisture to escape and will not allow you to control your wet bulb temperature.  You will end up drying wood too quickly in the initial stages of drying, and may end up damaging your lumber.

Leak point 1 was my power and sensor cable penetrations.  I thought i had them sealed with putty but on a cold day i could feel warm moist air coming out of them and into the control box (not good!) a pretty good clip.  I spray foamed these from the inside and now they seemingly do not leak anymore.

Leak point 2 was my intake louvre (for L200 auto vent).  This was the main point of moisture escape.  The circ fans should blow against the inward opening louvres of the intake to keep them closed, but unfortunately alot of air was still coming through.  I was shocked at how much air was blowing through this vent.  As i was taping up the vent, there was quite a strong stream of warm moist air coming out as i got the to last strip of tape.

Leak point 3 is not an air leak but a liquid leak.  The bottom of my door seal will drip a ton of water at the beginning of a cycle as moisture is condensing there due to the colder temps right at the seal.  It appears spray foam overspray is not allowing the rubber seal to properly seat itself, so this is something I plan on fixing once my current cycle is over.  There's enough condensation leaking here to show a nice big wet puddle on the cinder block the kiln chamber rests on, especially in first drying phase.

Once you identify your leaks and seal up your chamber you'll see the WB will quickly climb to within 2-5 degrees of the DB easily provided your lumber charge is over 20%.  Like YH said, you still can dry wood with a leaky chamber however you likely will dry wood too quickly and risk case hardening or excessive warpage.  

My first 3 loads were done with a leaky kiln and I ended up with "usable" walnut lumber.  However I did notice that drying takes SO much longer at the very end when you over dry in the early phase.  The extremely dry shell of the lumber seems to lock in the core moisture so it takes a very long time to migrate out.  I dried walnut from 23% to 8% easily in about 15 days with a properly sealed chamber.  It took a similar load 30 or so days when i had a leaky chamber and overdried initially, and 2/3 of that drying time was spent watching the moisture probes stuck at 10-15%.

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