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Cant reading; 101

Started by Tony, May 11, 2007, 09:13:00 PM

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Tony

      Well I've got another dumb one ::) ::) ??? ???

   I bought a highly recommended log end sealer to seal some red oak logs. I sealed them per instructions. The problem is I can't see the drying checks in the end, there's not one because the sealer is doing its job very well. I've been able in the past to read the checks and turn the log to put the crack\split in one board instead of all of them. I've milled about 400 bdft and probably 300 of it has split. It doesn't seem to matter how I turn the cant. I'm losing some good boards, 12 and 13 inchers and I haven't gotten to the biguns yet. The logs are straight and the bark is not spiraled.
    Do I look at each face and what do I look for ??? ??? ???  Any and all advice will be appreciated ;D

                                                  Tony   8)
   
TK1600, John Deere 4600 W\frontendloader, Woodmaster718 planer\moulder, Stihl MS461 Stihl 036 & 021 & Echo CS-370
"You cannot invade the mainland United States.  There would be a rifle behind each blade of grass."  Adm. Isoroku Yamamotto ( Japanese

Bibbyman

I'd take a chain saw and freshen off the ends about 1/2", saw the lumber and stick it and then re-paint the ends of the boards and maybe up an inch or so up the sides.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Tom

One thing you can do is take a crayon or log crayon and mark the heart check before you seal the log.  a purple mark layed on top of the check should be visible through the end sealer.

I've marked logs like that when the heart check is small.  It helps to speed things up when they hit the mill.  You can mark a bunch in just a minute or two.

You might be able to scratch enough end seal off of the logs you have not with a little spade, at leasst enough to see the check.

solidwoods

Your orienting the log faces based on end checks?
I guess your talking about a perfect 4 face log.
Logs are oriented to cut based on the defects in the log, not end checks.
jim
Ret. US Army
Kasco II B Band mill
Woodworking since 83
I mill & kiln dry lumber, build custom furniture, artworks, flooring, etc.
If you mill, you'll be interested in some of my work in one way or another.
We ship from our showroom.
N. Central TN.

Tom

You have to start somewhere.  I've always used sweep and heartcheck as my first judging points.

FiremanEd

Quote from: solidwoods on May 13, 2007, 07:31:11 AM
Your orienting the log faces based on end checks?
I guess your talking about a perfect 4 face log.
Logs are oriented to cut based on the defects in the log, not end checks.
jim

I agree with Solidwoods. I make my opening cut on the best looking face of the log. The exceptions being severe sweep or a major split.
Full time Firefighter / Paramedic
WoodMizer LT300 as secondary, full time job.
AccuTrac Electric Edger

WDH

Interesting.  I make my opening cut on the worst face of the log with the best face down on the bed.  That way, when I turn the log 180 to the best face, I am cutting parallel to the bark on the best grade.  Oh well, probably the wrong way to do it........ ::).
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Norm

I usually make my opening cut on the worst face. My reasoning is that it's most times got bumps or knots or other defects that won't lay well on the mill. I'll slab it heavy so it sits on the mill better and makes the other opening cuts a little more accurate.

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