Author Topic: Box jointing on the shaper. (Read 4901 times)

hackberry jake · « **Reply #20 on:** April 27, 2015, 04:18:27 PM »

I made one today using 1/2" fingers and used nothing but the cnc router to make the cuts. I lined six slats up on the cnc table and started it while I was cutting more parts. It worked pretty good and with 1/2" fingers I would only need four cutters for the shaper instead of seven. The pine one is the one I built today.

Lud · « **Reply #21 on:** April 28, 2015, 07:12:33 AM »

Nice craftsmanship, Jake.

Tom L · « **Reply #22 on:** April 28, 2015, 02:13:44 PM »

they look real nice.

hackberry jake · « **Reply #23 on:** May 01, 2015, 06:49:29 PM »

Update. I just ordered the shaper cutters for box jointing the slats. I checked around and AHturf had by far the best deals on shaper cutters. The 1/4" cut 4" diameter straight top groovers were about half the price of a grizzly, and Freeborn cutters are American made. If you guys need shaper cutters, check em out.

http://ahturf.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=26954_22218_22220

Larry · « **Reply #24 on:** May 01, 2015, 08:23:52 PM »

I order cabinet hardware from those guys. Slow shipping sometimes, but great prices.

About half my shaper tooling is Freeborn with the other half Grizzly and other Chinese brands. Just a guess but I would say Freeborn stays sharp maybe four times as long as the China brands. If I was doing it as a business all my tooling would be Freeborn....cheap tooling is too expensive.

jueston · « **Reply #25 on:** May 04, 2015, 08:19:34 AM »

a box joint is really strongest end grain to end grain, is there a reason you choose that joint for the bottom? is it cosmetic or does it make the glue up easier? it seems to me you could move your bottom side slat down a use a floating panel held in place by your bottom slat and ends.

just a thought...

hackberry jake · « **Reply #26 on:** May 04, 2015, 10:33:10 AM »

Quote from: jueston on May 04, 2015, 08:19:34 AM

a box joint is really strongest end grain to end grain, is there a reason you choose that joint for the bottom? is it cosmetic or does it make the glue up easier? it seems to me you could move your bottom side slat down a use a floating panel held in place by your bottom slat and ends.

just a thought...

I really just did it this way to simplify it. I only have two different parts that make the crate. The end pieces that are just small glued up panels and then cut out on the cnc router, and the slats. What would you use for the bottom panel? 1/4" hardboard comes to mind. It's pretty stgron and cheap. It might take away from the "rustic" feel though.

jueston · « **Reply #27 on:** May 04, 2015, 02:56:13 PM »

for that size i think 1/4 ply would work fine.

in my humble opinion, that item is a little too pretty to be rustic. i think of rustic as some roughsawn boards attached with exposed nails.

i'm not saying the bottom isn't strong enough, just saying that the joinery there seems like unnecessary complication.

i didn't realize the bottom was the same slats as the sides, making lots of the same piece is always faster, so thats a good idea if you want to knock out a lot of them.

if you changed the design to a 1/4 ply and put in dado's to hold it, it would make a lot more unique pieces, which might take more time to keep straight.

hackberry jake · « **Reply #28 on:** May 14, 2015, 01:19:59 PM »

Well, Larry was right. It took a while to get them, but they came in yesterday. While I was at it, I ordered a 4" diameter rub bearing so I can use the same cutters as a poor mans spiral pattern cutter. I got two 1/4" cutters and two 1/2" cutters for more versitility. I got the T-alloy versions instead of carbide because T-alloy gets sharper than carbide and it should help minimize tear-out. I also ordered an assortment of t-bushings and spacers (which cost about the same amount as the cutters). Since one of my shapers has a 1" spindle.
I know you boys like pictures.

tule peak timber · « **Reply #29 on:** May 14, 2015, 02:54:56 PM »

looking good---

Tom L · « **Reply #30 on:** May 15, 2015, 02:56:30 PM »

how do those flat faced cutters put the radius in the corner?

and how do you set up the adjacent cut, just redo the spacers to match?

hackberry jake · « **Reply #31 on:** May 15, 2015, 03:06:38 PM »

I havent tried the shaper yet. The piece in the picture was cut with a router bit. The sides of thr crates are cut using a router as well.

Just Me · « **Reply #32 on:** May 15, 2015, 08:25:12 PM »

I would suggest you double nut the spindle with that setup. I usually do on any cutter that weighs over 5 pounds. Was recommended to me by an old man I trust.

Larry

hackberry jake · « **Reply #33 on:** May 15, 2015, 09:00:39 PM »

That shaper just happens to have ~~a set of nuts~~ two threaded locking devices. Both nuts have setscrews as well.

POSTON WIDEHEAD · « **Reply #34 on:** May 16, 2015, 10:33:04 PM »

Larry · « **Reply #35 on:** May 18, 2015, 01:33:59 PM »

I saw this utube and thought of my friend Jake. Do a search for beehive finger joints and a whole bunch of interesting links come up.

And just to get the wheels turning, I have such an arbor that I think will do up to 12” wide. It would require some machine work. Its on a small gang rip I bought to part out.

hackberry jake · « **Reply #36 on:** May 18, 2015, 07:34:24 PM »

Man, that looks like the bees ~~knees~~ box joints!

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Author Topic: Box jointing on the shaper. (Read 4901 times)

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