Author Topic: Jointing with a stock feeder (Read 1419 times)

Larry · « **on:** September 23, 2015, 10:25:16 PM »

Last year I got a video from a friend showing an old Crescent jointer in a lumberyard sat up with a stock feeder on it to edge joint. It was only used for edge jointing and had been sat up with a feeder for as long as anybody could remember.

That really perked my interest and than I saw Jake had mounted a feeder on his jointer. I can't let that boy get too far ahead of me.

I figured out how to mount a feeder on my jointer several months ago. It was a task as not a lot to attach to. I only use it when I have a big whack of boards to joint. When it is configured to edge joint it works absolutely perfect. I had the feeder adjusted to run at 33 fpm which is fine when I'm by myself. I usually adjust the jointer for 1/4” to 3/8” deep cut but I have ran it with 1/2” cut. I want to clean up the edge in one pass. I've ran lots of pine, and oak through.

I haven't used it much to face joint until yesterday when I ran 500 some foot of walnut. Two things were quickly apparent. My jointer is 3 hp and its not enough to make much of a cut on a 12” wide board, even with the feeder at its slowest setting of 20 fpm. My feeder could also use more horsepower as it is only ¼ horsepower. I think a ½ hp would work fine. If I wanted production I would put at least 5 HP on the jointer and 1 HP on the feeder.

Results face jointing were mixed. It did great getting rid of cup on the board. Fair getting rid of bow, and twist. It does good enough I would use it over hand feeding when looking at more than 100 board foot. I expect my results to improve as I get more experience. I should also add I don't completely clean up the board when face jointing, either by hand or with the feeder. Just knocking off the high spots works well for me.

Just Me · « **Reply #1 on:** September 24, 2015, 07:54:55 PM »

I have my joiner tucked up tight to the back of my shaper and can swing the feed around. My jointer is 5 hp and the feeder 1, and no problems but....... If a board is really whacked and I want to save it I will do it by hand so a can sneak up on it and take where I want off. With the feeder face jointing its whatever it is at the beginning and thats that.

But like you say, getting old and can use all the help I can get.......

hackberry jake · « **Reply #2 on:** September 30, 2015, 03:57:59 PM »

Mine is mounted on a shaper behind the jointer. You need a pretty beefy shaper to pull it off since the feeder is extended out so far. My shaper is 800lbs and it still tried to walk if the board caught the lip of the outfeed table. After using it to face joint over 1000' of lumber, I was sure glad I did it though. I edge jointed everything by hand and my back and arms were sore for two days.
I also put one wheel in front of the cutter head to hold everything down better. I don't know which way works better as I haven't tried all three wheels over the outfeed.

Just Me · « **Reply #3 on:** September 30, 2015, 07:35:27 PM »

I run mine with all three wheels about 4-6" ahead of the cutter on the outfeed table. That way I can get it started the way I want, you know split the difference in the twist an in the case of a bow I start it curve down and set the end of the board just on the infeed table a touch.

I tried it half and half and I had no control and was losing too much wood. I work with a lot of exotics and like to save as much wood as possible.

My shaper weighs over #3000 pounds, no problem with walking....

Larry

Larry · « **Reply #4 on:** September 30, 2015, 08:27:19 PM »

So far I have the best results with it positioned as shown. I'll try moving it forward 6" like Larry is doing to see if it works better. I changed the wheels the other day to some take off OEM wheels. I found they can be mounted with two together, like duals on a tractor. Thought it might give me better control.

I'm definitely not where I want to be when face jointing so I'll keep trying things until I get it right.

hackberry jake · « **Reply #5 on:** September 30, 2015, 10:09:15 PM »

3000# shaper? I'd like to see that beast! I thought moving a 2200# jointer was nerve racking.

Just Me · « **Reply #6 on:** October 03, 2015, 09:01:26 PM »

Jake there is a picture of it in my gallery but I have not gone there in so long I can't remember how. $:-\$

If you find it that is a 9' door that it is in front of to give you an idea of the size.

Larry

beenthere · « **Reply #7 on:** October 03, 2015, 09:41:40 PM »

Just me
All you need to do is click on your forum name, and you will see the line "MY GALLERY". Click that to see your pics.

Just Me · « **Reply #8 on:** October 05, 2015, 07:50:03 PM »

Here it is, the polish princess.

hackberry jake · « **Reply #9 on:** October 05, 2015, 08:40:24 PM »

That is a beast. Do the spindles turn in opposite directions?

Just Me · « **Reply #10 on:** October 08, 2015, 07:33:42 PM »

On most old American Iron that is what they usually do, for pattern work so that you can use the right rotation for the grain you are cutting.

Not the case on this one, both spindles are reversible, comes with two hoods that are "exactly" like older Martin hoods. The hoods can rotate 360 degrees on a huge cast iron disk machined into the planed top.

Actually the whole machine is a copy of 50-60's Martins other than they have greasable precision bearings rather than the oil bath arrangement that Martin uses.

It has two 9 hp motors, and will spin a 14" cutter, just not with me running it! I have run a 10" that weighed I guess ten pounds, and it did not even whimper. Both spindles, in 3/4" and 1 1/8" did not even move the needle on a dial indicator after I got them cleaned up.

This one is a Unitronix, but the same machine was marketed as a Gomad or a Polamco. They are awesome. I have a tablesaw made by the same company for SCM and it has been my favorite for 25 years since I bought it new.

They make a wonderful single spindle with an end tenoning table that I have been searching for but they are rare. If you ever run across one of these snag it up. They go cheap because people are worried about parts, but really they are built so heavy that there is little possibility of anything breaking. For example, those knobs on the front are machined cast iron chromed, and when I took one off to check out how they were put on, i would say they weigh at least 20 pounds. Once everything was all cleaned up, you gan give them a spin and they will go around several times. There are bearings on the handles. Bearings are standard precision bearings, still available but not cheap. but they are "Huge", so I do not see them going bad on my little operation.

Larry

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