Whatcha Sawin' 2020 ??

[TimW]

Brandi,

  Looks good. If anybody steals it I'd first check with the local ER to see if anybody reported recently with back problems. :D
 

Thanks WV!
I am gonna add braces to the bench and legs to keep them together if water tries to move it.  It will be placed in a scenic area by a gully at the back of my property.  We have had some deep water there before.
hugs,  Brandi

[EOTE]

EOTE,
  How do you like that JET planer?  Also, with that clean floor and all those vacuum ducts, where do you dance on Saturday night?  
        hug,  Brandi

Bindian,
I love the Jet planer!  I have the helical head and once I got it set up properly, it works flawlessly.  I've run over 8,000 board feet through it so far and it really does a nice job.  I haven't had to change the cutters yet but that is probably due to doing mostly pine.  You have to keep the table waxed thoroughly for the boards to run through smoothly.
I port the chips through a Harbor Freight dust collector and out to my 16K dump trailer.  I made a bin to dump the chips.  Each trailer load is about 9 yards of chips.

Sweet!  What Harbor Freight dust collector do you use?  I was thinking the one in the store on display might be too small.
I have a 5hp helical Grizzly planer.
hugs,  Brandi

Brandi,
I have the basic 1 -1/2 hp. version.  I don't use the dust collector bag and filter much as I ported it directly into my dump trailer.  My dump trailer holds 9 cubic yards of chips and fills up quickly when planing boards.  I would be exhausted trying to empty the removable bag all the time with the amount of chips I've generated.  To give you an idea, the 6,000 bf of shiplap generated 3 trailer loads of chips and sawdust.  Keep that in mind when setting up your planer and dust collector.

[tule peak timber]

Setting up the trusses this morning. I devised a pallet jack system to move and set. 8) 8)

 

 

 

[EOTE]

Setting up the trusses this morning. I devised a pallet jack system to move and set. 8) 8)

 

 

That's a pretty boss build you have going.  Nice work!

[Walnut Beast]

Looks pretty impressive without metal plate connectors

[tule peak timber]

It is my office, but there will be a guest house in the back for clients  that visit.
  As far as the connectors-nothing exposed and gentle curves on the timbers , here and there.There are three big jobs that will run through the real estate before I can shut in, The Mingei Museum counters, the New Natural Resources Headquarters wall , and the gates to hell (big wooden gates). I just don't have room in my shop for this years projects. :D

[WV Sawmiller]

 

 

 I decided to saw some walnut bench legs out of a short piece I had on the yard - about 4' long. I was also experimenting with a 3 legged stool out of a poplar cookie. I used some ash legs I cut yesterday was concerned they might have sat too long. Turns out they had as they snapped off at the connection when I went to cut them to length so instead of punching or drilling them out I'll just try again later but I see my ash is going in the firewood pile. I got 9 each 4' 9/4 X 9/4 bench legs which will make 3-4 more walnut benches. 

   When I finished I prepped the mill and moved it to the front lot and gave it a good bath, changed the air filter (which came in today) and washed the particularly nasty prefilter then loaded up the truck for a 3 log mobile job 44 miles away on Friday.

[TimW]

Brandi,
I have the basic 1 -1/2 hp. version.  I don't use the dust collector bag and filter much as I ported it directly into my dump trailer.  My dump trailer holds 9 cubic yards of chips and fills up quickly when planing boards.  I would be exhausted trying to empty the removable bag all the time with the amount of chips I've generated.  To give you an idea, the 6,000 bf of shiplap generated 3 trailer loads of chips and sawdust.  Keep that in mind when setting up your planer and dust collector.

So you are just using it to vacuum (shoot?) the dust and chips into your trailer?  How long a run is it from planer to outlet at the trailer?
hugs,  Brandi

[TimW]

I didn't cut much today, as I took a friend to the doctor.  I was able to cut another rotten Red Oak log into 12 inch wide boards.  I think the 3 of these  would make a great table top with acrylic fillings.  I can't figure what price to put on them.  Any ideas on price would be appreciated.
          hugs,  Brandi

 

 

[Old Greenhorn]

I decided to saw some walnut bench legs out of a short piece I had on the yard - about 4' long. I was also experimenting with a 3 legged stool out of a poplar cookie. I used some ash legs I cut yesterday was concerned they might have sat too long. Turns out they had as they snapped off at the connection when I went to cut them to length so instead of punching or drilling them out I'll just try again later but I see my ash is going in the firewood pile. I got 9 each 4' 9/4 X 9/4 bench legs which will make 3-4 more walnut benches.

I like the 3 legged stool, looks cool. Sorry you snapped a leg. I am still trying to find an easy and safe way to cut those legs. Doing it on the mil is very tricky and I have had the blade grab a few.
I am wondering how that poplar cookie behaves for a seat? Doesn't it check and crack like everything else, or is it stable? I have a couple of those logs and might give it a try. Maybe I should try it on pine?
 As for me, today was tamater stakes;


 

[WV Sawmiller]

OGH,

   Yes the poplar 8/4 cookie already had a check in it and one of the mortises was not very clean which was another reason I ditched it when the leg snapped rather than attempt to repair/replace the legs. I'll try again as I think it has good potential. I also think they may also be a prime candidate for epoxy to strengthen and reinforce the wood. I don't have any experience using epoxy so I don't know if you could apply it on green/fresh cut wood or have to wait and just repair the crack when they appear. Seeing the crack is helpful in deciding where to put the mortises. This also looks like a real good candidate for a jig to get the 60 degree (Wait! guess that should be 120 degree) angles. I'll try again. Its like making benches - you learn each time and hopefully the next one will be better than the last.

[doc henderson]

@Bindian , they are worth what ever someone will pay, depending on your market.  it takes a special kind of woodworker to see the beauty in the more natural and rustic pieces.  In rough form, I would throw out a number like $300.  but if dried, planed, or made into a river table top, the number would keep gong up.  they are great looking and have a lot of character.  I hope you find them a home.  and make something for you time and equipment.  remember, I am a hobby guy and do not charge for my stuff, so maybe others will chime in.  but I also hate to give a non answer.   cheers!

[doc henderson]

they look to be about 7 feet long?  that is 21 sq. feet, and if 1.5 inches thick. about 42 board feet,  and for oak at 1.50 per board foot, that is 63 bucks.  given the character I think they are worth more to the right person.  

[teakwood]

etting up the trusses this morning. I devised a pallet jack system to move and set.  

How do you do those cuts so perfectly? I kicking around the idea to do a new sawmill shed with teak wood and would love to know how to make the joints   

[tule peak timber]

We are using a combination of portable band saw, big and small circular saws, a power mortiser, and lastly a small hand saw.Getting all the joints as tight as possible is tricky and takes a bit of trim work -here and there.I also took the step of making templates of all the parts from a full sized drawing.
  A lot of reading on the internet prior to starting this first time out.
  A shout out to Don P for his PM's and advise prior to designing the joints. This forum is a GREAT resource for study before starting a build like this. Rob

[richhiway]

 

 
I cut the material for the porch roof @ camp. A new pellet grill will find a home under it.
Have a great weekend.

[alan gage]

Brandi,
I have the basic 1 -1/2 hp. version.  I don't use the dust collector bag and filter much as I ported it directly into my dump trailer.  My dump trailer holds 9 cubic yards of chips and fills up quickly when planing boards.  I would be exhausted trying to empty the removable bag all the time with the amount of chips I've generated.  To give you an idea, the 6,000 bf of shiplap generated 3 trailer loads of chips and sawdust.  Keep that in mind when setting up your planer and dust collector.

So you are just using it to vacuum (shoot?) the dust and chips into your trailer?  How long a run is it from planer to outlet at the trailer?
hugs,  Brandi

That's what I did this winter when I was planing lumber to line the inside walls of my shop. I have a stationary cyclone dust collector that's plumbed to all the equipment in the shop but I also have a smaller dust collector on casters that I can move around. No cyclone or bags on the moveable one. I just set it up near the door and ran 4" rigid ducting out to the dump trailer parked just outside. It's a 12' dump trailer and I filled it up 3-4 times. Like EOTE said it doesn't take long with planer shavings.
I stepped up the duct size to 6" with a whye where it blows into the trailer to cut down the velocity of air so it didn't have such a tendency to blow all over the place. Every once in a while I'd need to use a scoop shovel and push the chips to the other side of the trailer since it doesn't fill evenly. On windy days it would make a bit of a mess in the driveway but I was pretty happy with it. Will do it that way again for big projects.
Alan

[EOTE]

Brandi,
I have the basic 1 -1/2 hp. version.  I don't use the dust collector bag and filter much as I ported it directly into my dump trailer.  My dump trailer holds 9 cubic yards of chips and fills up quickly when planing boards.  I would be exhausted trying to empty the removable bag all the time with the amount of chips I've generated.  To give you an idea, the 6,000 bf of shiplap generated 3 trailer loads of chips and sawdust.  Keep that in mind when setting up your planer and dust collector.

So you are just using it to vacuum (shoot?) the dust and chips into your trailer?  How long a run is it from planer to outlet at the trailer?
hugs,  Brandi

That's what I did this winter when I was planing lumber to line the inside walls of my shop. I have a stationary cyclone dust collector that's plumbed to all the equipment in the shop but I also have a smaller dust collector on casters that I can move around. No cyclone or bags on the moveable one. I just set it up near the door and ran 4" rigid ducting out to the dump trailer parked just outside. It's a 12' dump trailer and I filled it up 3-4 times. Like EOTE said it doesn't take long with planer shavings.
I stepped up the duct size to 6" with a whye where it blows into the trailer to cut down the velocity of air so it didn't have such a tendency to blow all over the place. Every once in a while I'd need to use a scoop shovel and push the chips to the other side of the trailer since it doesn't fill evenly. On windy days it would make a bit of a mess in the driveway but I was pretty happy with it. Will do it that way again for big projects.
Alan

I park the trailer right out the door and use 5" flex hose to connect to the dust collector.  What isn't shown in the picture is the hose to the trailer.  It was down when I took this photo.  My trailer has a debris net on it for hauling gravel so it helps to keep the chips from blowing out.  I made a couple of side boards to mount on top of the trailer sides to minimize any gaps where the chips can blow out between the net and the trailer sides.  I got the 5" flex hose from the big "A".  It's a medium duty hose material in 25' lengths.


 

[TimW]

they look to be about 7 feet long?  that is 21 sq. feet, and if 1.5 inches thick. about 42 board feet,  and for oak at 1.50 per board foot, that is 63 bucks.  given the character I think they are worth more to the right person.  

They are 8 foot long.  I put them on HOU craigslist.
hugs,  Brandi

[teakwood]

We are using a combination of portable band saw, big and small circular saws, a power mortiser, and lastly a small hand saw.Getting all the joints as tight as possible is tricky and takes a bit of trim work -here and there.I also took the step of making templates of all the parts from a full sized drawing.
 A lot of reading on the internet prior to starting this first time out.
 A shout out to Don P for his PM's and advise prior to designing the joints. This forum is a GREAT resource for study before starting a build like this. Rob

I know it's not easy to do, now i see that i would need to much tools. maybe i can Mc Guyver up with a hand circle saw and a hand mortiser, thats all i got, or the chainsaw but that would go near carving and i'm definitively no pro in that.

[tule peak timber]

Respectfully, you can do precision joinery with hand tools -it just takes a long time. Another option is to employ more labor force and you manage them.
  Another option is to bring in a timber framing team that will build to a cost/bid.
  A hand circle saw, a sawsall, an arbortech tool, some augers...........Develop your own system

[Don P]

You're a mortiser ahead of where I started but I had you beat by a chisel :D. Just about every old farm auction has some timberframing tools from that generation, they used what they knew and had. More tools just make you more efficient.

[Silverfoxfintry]

they call it boiled, but now that means it has toxic chemical in it to help it dry.  confusing.  good luck.  even wally mart should carry it in the paint section by the gallon.  used in some paint applications, to add and help flow.  the drying agents are metals and toxic so not to use on "food safe" applications. "unboiled" linseed oil is safe but may remain tacky for some time.

Be very careful with linseed oil. It can cause "spontaneous combustion".
Contaminated Cotton rags can "cook off" a few hours after you have discarded them. Saw a demonstration of this at an Offshore Firefighting training course a few years ago.

[teakwood]

Respectfully, you can do precision joinery with hand tools -it just takes a long time. Another option is to employ more labor force and you manage them.
 Another option is to bring in a timber framing team that will build to a cost/bid.
 A hand circle saw, a sawsall, an arbortech tool, some augers...........Develop your own system

No such thing as qualified labor here, so i have to do it myself. Time is no problem, we don't stress out that much as the first world, i learned that by now, living here. 
Timber framing teams don't exist, i could try to get a carpenter from Switzerland who wants to vacation here and help me out for a week, there are always young people who travel/work.
this are some useful tools! didn't knew them
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XO2hsjLC7Ko

[tule peak timber]

I've seen some of your furniture and millwork build posts,,,,,you will do just fine tackling the timber framing job. I might add Google timber frame joints, for some metal connection ideas--or make your own metal joints with a welder. Do some reading on the threads here and go for it.  Cheers !