LT 40 Super or LT50 Woodmizer.

[Tin Horse]

I've been considering upgrading to either a Lt 40 Super or possibly a LT50.   Been comparing features between the two lately. My current mill has been flawless and I'd prefer to keep it but the wife and money won't allow it. My mill is fully hydraulic with a 35 HP Kubota diesel. My reasons for upgrading are to simplify and speed the process. So some questions for the Woodmizer experts.
1. My mill as a chain turner. Would I regret the claw turner on the LT40?
2. Would the Tier 4 diesels be an issue or problem?
3. I would go for the stationary Accuset 2. Main consideration here is ease of use and the board return for a 1 man operation.
I was able to see a LT 50 operating recently and was impressed. Even the wife liked it which is half the battle.
I also prefer the vertical back stops. The speed of the machine was easily double that of mine.
One other reason for consideration I like is the dealer support and its value retention.
Wondering if there are many LT50's out there? Seems to be a spread from the 40 to a 70??
Thanks in advance. 

[boonesyard]

I don't have any experience with any other make or model of mill, so I can only give you what I know about my LT50. It is a wide head with debarker and the tier4 Yanmar (I think it's a 2017 model). I have had absolutely no issues with the engine and I run mine in some cold cold temps. No issue with starting or regen. Plenty of power and hydraulics are fast, faster than my bones ;D . It's been a good, solid piece of equipment.   

[WV Sawmiller]

Tin Horse,

   Both are way advanced of mine. Do you saw short logs very often? If so you might consider the side support issues with the vertical supports. I have a pair of additional side supports on mine that are a life saver when sawing real short stuff. Are they an option with the LT40 Super? Just something else to consider.

[Southside]

I went from a claw to a chain, you can't compare the speed or utility between the two. I would not go back to a claw. 

[YellowHammer]

If given the opportunity, I would go LT-50 Wide, with the biggest diesel they offer, Accuset 2, dragback, dragback fingers (a necessity), full length WM outfeed table, HP blade guides, and .055 Turbo bands.  

I've had three WM mills, and I'm a big fan of go big or do it again, and thats why I've had three WM mills. :D :D  I didn't follow my own advice.

The chain turner is nice.

[boonesyard]

If given the opportunity, I would go LT-50 Wide, with the biggest diesel they offer, Accuset 2, dragback, dragback fingers (a necessity), full length WM outfeed table, HP blade guides, and .055 Turbo bands.  

I've had three WM mills, and I'm a big fan of go big or do it again, and thats why I've had three WM mills. :D :D  I didn't follow my own advice.

The chain turner is nice.

YH,
Not to hijack the thread, but can you get OEM dragback fingers or is it home remedy you add yourself? What is the benefit of the HP blade guides over "standard" guides, and I guess what are they? 
Thanks

[Tin Horse]

I don't have any experience with any other make or model of mill, so I can only give you what I know about my LT50. It is a wide head with debarker and the tier4 Yanmar (I think it's a 2017 model). I have had absolutely no issues with the engine and I run mine in some cold cold temps. No issue with starting or regen. Plenty of power and hydraulics are fast, faster than my bones ;D . It's been a good, solid piece of equipment.  

Thanks and that's good to hear. When it needs to go into regen. does it interrupt the sawing process though? Like a time out to burn clean.

[Tin Horse]

Tin Horse,

  Both are way advanced of mine. Do you saw short logs very often? If so you might consider the side support issues with the vertical supports. I have a pair of additional side supports on mine that are a life saver when sawing real short stuff. Are they an option with the LT40 Super? Just something else to consider.

Yes occasionally I do cut short logs that a customer brings. Off my own property I'd cut nothing less than 8' if possible. 

[Tin Horse]

This LT 50 I looked at may be available. It's a 2013. Loaded. Even the laser. 47 hp Yanmar. no regen. Vertical back stops plus 2 manual in between. It has the Accuset 2 walk along.( not wide head). That's probably the only issue.
I recall I think Yellowhammer speaking of steps and walking. I strongly agree. My current mill is wire-remote which I like.
Am I missing something here because the walking back and forth doesn't appeal to me? Woodmizer says they can be changed to stationary but about $5000.

[Bandmill Bandit]

I have an LT40 that i have pretty much upgraded to what i call an "Almost Super" and i am very happy with it! 

HOWEVER; I still bug my dealer for under selling me. There is no question what mill I'd buy IF I upgrade. LT50 with full option load and wireless remote. 

I haven't looked at what kind of money your looking at for the used mill BUT if the $5-$6000 gets you with in $10,000 ish  of new delivered the way you like it then you'd have to take a serious look at the new one with warranty. 

$10,000 is about 2 weeks of steady sawing in my world. Even if it took you 3 months to recover that it would be well worth it.

FYI 
Factory red laser is useless unless your under a shelter/inside. BUT changing  the laser module over to high power Green or blue is not real costly and makes the laser a very nice time saver in production sawing. 

It also will help make you bit more meticulous about keeping your alignment bang on the marks. IF your not a meticulous  type of person don't waste your money because it will just irritate you.

[YellowHammer]

With a good stationary setup and command and control control console, I rarely have to move more than a few feet to saw a log, unload boards, put them on a pallet, etc.  

Many times I'm sawing boards faster than I can walk, anyway, I much prefer to stay at the console and let the machine do the walking and I stay out of the dust and noise.  

The Tier 4 on my LT70 goes into regen occasionally, there is nothing to it, just keep sawing until the light goes off.  If I'm done sawing and it goes unto regen, I bring it to idle and shut it off.  The next day, after it is warmed back up, it will return to regen mode and finish the cycle.  It's a non event for me. I have had no more or less maintenance than on my old Tier 3 in my LT-40.

I built my dragback fingers myself, they weren't offered as an option back then.  I'm not sure now if they are or not, however, @123maxbars is getting WM (I believe) to build him a set for his LT40.  He'd have to answer more on that.  Dragback fingers are critical to get the board feeding back straight without any hands on input from me.  

Here is an old video of me sawing red oak with my old LT40.  Not a Super, just a regular, with diesel and dragback. My mill wasn't the fastest, but the point is that with a drag back and fingers, the Yellowhammer Dragback Shelf to hold the boards up until dropped, Command Console, Accuset 2, and a good table for the boards to land on, then even the "slow" mills will eat wood. 5 boards off a cant in 1 minute 37 seconds without me having to move anything but my fingers on the control.    

A lot of people don't believe in, or like the HP blade guides.  They are little metal "bump" pads that mount to the guide rollers and are spaced about a hairs breath (0.010") under and over the band, sandwiching it, but not touching it.  So under normal operation the band never touches them until the event of a wave or dive.  Then they will constrain the band and keep it from floating down off the roller guides.  So they don't prevent wave but they do a good job controlling it, if it occurs and they keep it to a minimum.  Since they are so close to the blade but not touching it, I am convinced they also serve a useful secondary purpose as blade scrapers, knocking and rubbing off any major sap buildup.  For fast sawing, I believe they are critical to keep a slight wave from becoming board ruiner.  Some of the boards I mill sell for a few hundred bucks and a bad wave that I can't plane out ruins two boards, the top and bottom. So for me, they are worth it.  I'm not saying they allow me to keep sawing if there is a band issue, I'm saying it goes from a "well I guess I better change bands" to " Oh, no, I just ruined two high dollar boards."   
 
Here the video:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YpO3njUNe4g

[boonesyard]

The only thing my mill is missing is the command control or remote station, and I wish I had it. After 2 short years of milling, I'd pass on the walking, and I'm in pretty good shape. For me sawing in the winter with heavy clothes on, the dead man switch being one speed coming back is fast, sometimes too fast. I checked in to upgrading it to a remote but WM said it can't be done (without a LOT of expense). I know there are a number of members that run the seat including MM and I've often wondered about adding that option.

[Tin Horse]

The only thing my mill is missing is the command control or remote station, and I wish I had it. After 2 short years of milling, I'd pass on the walking, and I'm in pretty good shape. For me sawing in the winter with heavy clothes on, the dead man switch being one speed coming back is fast, sometimes too fast. I checked in to upgrading it to a remote but WM said it can't be done (without a LOT of expense). I know there are a number of members that run the seat including MM and I've often wondered about adding that option.

My Dr. says I'm in really good shape from his point of view. I get it but wish he could try out my lower back pain for awhile.
This is why I'm looking to reduce work load. The wife and I are doing firewood and lumber  and we're feeling the physical wear and tear. About to pull the plug on the firewood. I enjoy it but don't feel the profit margin is good enough anymore. Even with a small processor to much time.

[Southside]

@boonesyard Have you checked inside of the brain box on the side of your mill to see if it has a yellow wire coming off of the H bridge?  If it's the same as the 40's then that wire is unhooked from the factory, plug it back in and you will have the ability to control reverse speed using the pot.  

[boonesyard]

@boonesyard Have you checked inside of the brain box on the side of your mill to see if it has a yellow wire coming off of the H bridge?  If it's the same as the 40's then that wire is unhooked from the factory, plug it back in and you will have the ability to control reverse speed using the pot.  

I have not nor did I know that was possible. I will definitely root around in there and check that out, Thanks. Is it obvious where it plugs in?

[Bandmill Bandit]

I have the seat for my mill and do use it when I am production sawing with good help where I can keep my butt parked in the seat and the help looks after EVERYTHING that is not directly included to my job as the sawyer. If you have to jump on and off the seat that gets old real fast but sawing with the seat is a very nice way to  saw.

I made a 28" extension for my mill so that I don't lose any log length with the seat on.

[Tin Horse]

I have the seat for my mill and do use it when I am production sawing with good help where I can keep my butt parked in the seat and the help looks after EVERYTHING that is not directly included to my job as the sawyer. If you have to jump on and off the seat that gets old real fast but sawing with the seat is a very nice way to  saw.

I made a 28" extension for my mill so that I don't lose any log length with the seat on.

Didn't really think of that as an option for the sawmill. Made one for the processor and love it. Does that affect the alignment at all of the head being single post?

[Bandmill Bandit]

No it does not!

The seat is built on an independant frame and hooks to the head with a simple latch so the full weight of the seat/rider rides on the mill frame rails. have to make  sure you don't over tighten the bottom rollers of the seat frame to the rail when you install but that is not a problem once you get the hang of it and that takes about 5 minutes.

My mill also has a manual board return that is manual only because I have not got to installing the power lift for which I have ALL the parts. Also have enough rollers and related material for 3 or more scramble tables but havent needed them as a mobile sawyer.

[boonesyard]

No it does not!

The seat is built on an independant frame and hooks to the head with a simple latch so the full weight of the seat/rider rides on the mill frame rails. have to make  sure you don't over tighten the bottom rollers of the seat frame to the rail when you install but that is not a problem once you get the hang of it and that takes about 5 minutes.

My mill also has a manual board return that is manual only because I have not got to installing the power lift for which I have ALL the parts. Also have enough rollers and related material for 3 or more scramble tables but havent needed them as a mobile sawyer.

Pics of your homeade seat setup??

[Southside]

Yes, it's obvious where it plugs in, but it's also no longer in my memory to be able to guide you. 

[Magicman]

I know there are a number of members that run the seat including MM and I've often wondered about adding that option.

Yes I do have the seat and if I were ordering a new sawmill today, it would have a seat.

The drawback is if the wind is from the wrong direction, it's in your face.

[Tin Horse]

Thanks everyone for the responses. It sure helps in the decision making!

[jeepcj779]

LT-50 is only $400 more than LT40 Super with the new WM sale.

[Tin Horse]

LT-50 is only $400 more than LT40 Super with the new WM sale.

Yes, thanks. I'm building and pricing. Starting to look real pricey for new though. If only my wife would buy it for my upcoming 60 birthday. 8)

[Bandmill Bandit]

My seat is a factory seat but the extension I made myself. These are pics of the extension.