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Dado blade box joint issues

Started by Brad_bb, September 24, 2013, 12:45:10 AM

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Brad_bb

The guy who makes the blotch control I mentioned has a detailed video about blotching on his main page that explains it well.  I won't post it because someone might consider it advertising.  He talks about both soft and hard woods and how it works and why blotching occurs.  My first project that I stained blotched real bad and looked terrible.  I searched the web and came across the blotch control and learned all about it from the video(multiple videos actually).  It applies to soft wood and hardwoods with figure.  The worst is SYP veneer plywood, which is what many choose because it's availible in some box stores and looks pretty good at a low price(until you try to apply a finish or stain without blotch t)  That was what my first project was made from. 
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

LeeB

Does it do anything to control chips?
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

beenthere

I still wouldn't use it under a danish oil finish. Hope it turns out ok.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Axe Handle Hound

Your project turned out real nice Brad!  Glad to see you stuck with your box joints as they really dress up a piece and I learned a little from this thread as well.  In regards to the blotch control, that's typically only an issue on woods that you apply stain to and most of the "wood conditioner" or "pre-stain conditioner" products are just thinned out polyurethane.  I don't think you having applied it will negatively affect the impending application of Danish oil seeing as how Danish oil is mostly a varnish anway.  If it were me, I would apply one coat to see how it reacts.  I'm guessing that you won't need quite as much DO as you would have on an unfinished board because the blotch control should have filled and sealed some of the open pores.  I would be careful about adding too many coats though or you might get a gummy surface.  One or two followed by a two coats of a semi-gloss or satin poly would give you an attractive finish with the figure popping benefits of the DO and the durability of the poly.  Poly will be a lot more forgiving when it comes to waterstains from spilled drinks, half-melted marshmallows and chocolate drippings.  Just my thoughts anyway.

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