Husky 350 clutch spring replacement...ARRRGGHHH!

[Old Greenhorn]

Tearing my hair out this afternoon, they heat and a delinquent client didn't help my mood either. I bucked some logs up this morning and loaded the mill deck for milling in a few days and in the process I killed the chain on my little 350 with dirt and gravel on the logs. It was due for a cleaning anyway and this one gets used most sporadically. So I did the chain after I took a shower (soaked through and covered with sawdust). Then pulled the bar, cleaned that up, checked the edges, no dressing required and cleaned the rest of the saw and clutch cover. I could not remember the last time I greased the bearing on the clutch drum so I removed the clutch to do that. In the process, one of the springs popped out. I have the same clutch on my 450 and when it happened on that saw it only took me two minutes to figure it out and get it back together (with no special tools that I recall). On this one, try as I might I could not get that thing back in, or even close. I even found a video of a guy with a trick he used, but it didn't work for me (and I have the blood blister to prove it). This should not be that hard. Here is the clutch:



 

 I looked to see if Husky had a special tool for this with no joy. Does anybody have a trick or better yet, a proper solution for getting these back together? I gave up in frustration (given the other stuff). I figured I'd ask here because often you guys save me hours of misery and/or many $ just because y'all know more than I ever will. No sense beating my head against the wall.
 To be honest I like this saw. I bought it from the original owner and after putting on a used jug and piston I got from Spike it's been running like a top. I want to keep it that way. Looking at the spur drive, there is fairly good wear, so I am thinking of getting a new drum/clutch/bearing kit anyway. It's a 2001 saw as far as I can tell, so maybe it's due I think. Maybe go to a rim sprocket while I am at it.
 @spike60 is there a special tool for these springs?

[rusticretreater]

Here is a post that shows a bit of a different method.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=38150.0

You could also go look for something called lock ring pliers(not snap ring or circlip pliers).  These pliers have flat ends.  The pliers below open 1 1/2 inches.

https://www.jbtools.com/wilde-tool-straight-tip-lock-ring-pliers-9-inch-with-satin-finish-g407-np-bb/?wi=off

Piston ring installer pliers also come to mind.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/lisle-piston-ring-installer-remover-pliers-33500/22984306-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=22984306-P&srsltid=AfmBOooJ4OqdFKEZ6GwJDmKmALlt4qc_U3_K39sts6y5Q8bLcy9o9R2ethU

[Old Greenhorn]

Well I will certainly try that method in the morning but given what I learned with all my different attempts today, I am not really hopeful. I am thinking, given the age that maybe there is too much wear on the tabs of these springs and a new clutch is the right thing here. But believe me, I will give this a good college try (just keep in mind I never graduated from college). ;D

[rusticretreater]

You responded before I finished adding links to my post.  Hope you read it again.

[Old Greenhorn]

Yeah, just read it again. I may have one of those pliers in my shop somewhere, I'll have to go on a hunt tomorrow. Thanks for the help. I just think these springs may be worn on the ends or may be one of the revised springs noted in the thread you referenced. I had vey little trouble with my 450 which is much newer. This one just seems different and less do-able.
 Tomorrow is another day.

[doc henderson]

It took two of use to reinstall a chain brake that came out on my friend husky.  It is usually not the obvious.  may have to pry open the other side, to get the other in.  I also agree with replace parts, but they may all come separate anyway.

[donbj]

Are you holding your mouth the right way?

[doc henderson]

sometimes, and sometimes there were words coming out that I cannot spell here.

[Fishnuts2]

Bear in mind, that you don't have to take the clutch off to grease the bearing on these.  Give it a couple of shots on the end of the shaft with a bar grease tip.
Good luck with that spring too.

[Old Greenhorn]

Doc I did the chain brake spring a couple of years ago and don't recall any exceptional problem getting it in, it was just a little tricky. I don't recall what caused me to do that, I think I replaced a broken one on another 350 or it popped out. So far, I haven't used any 'words', but I have been close.
 Don, I can't say, but maybe I should set up a mirror to check, that could be it. ;D
 Fishnuts, I'll have to check and see if this crank has the grease hole, not all do. But in this case I was doing a general inspection and I wanted to get a look at the bearing condition as well as that spur drive and also give a good cleaning back there, which was never done on this saw that I could recall. I try to do this on all my saws once a year at least because that's how I find problems before they become issues.
 I just have a feeling its something else with this clutch. That spring is really stiff and not very close to snapping in. Any tools I have used to try and pull the spring in place require a LOT of force, more that I think they should need. Since it's the same clutch as my 450 I would have already ordered a spare/replacement if I were a little more flush.

 I hate having saws in pieces on the bench, especially one that weren't broke when I started on it. Makes me crazy. I'll give it another shot in a little while.

[Old Greenhorn]

Done. 8)

 Took about 10 minutes this go round. :D I could not do the 'plier/spreader thing', the spring is just too strong for that. I used a combination of needle nose and water pump pliers and just worked it in as I held it in a vise compressed, probably the same as I did last time. I think yesterday it was just a buildup of uncomfortable heat after working in the sun at the mill, frustrations over totally unrelated stuff, being tired and a lack of beer (at that point, later resolved). This morning was just a fresh clean rested mind. I also pulled the side plate and checked the oil pump function and cleaned all that up too. Back to running like a top again and it's off the bench. ;D I like knowing what condition my saws are in without having to take them apart when things go wrong. This is my saw, there are many like it but this one is mine......

Fishnuts, I did check and there is no grease hole through to the bearing on this one. You have to remove the bearing to grease it.

 Next time I have excess cash :D and invest in some spare parts I will order another clutch and drum as a spare, this one could be replaced anytime now, it's getting worn. I use this saw mostly for firewood, yard work, and trimming logs at the mill once in a while. It rides in a scabbard on the Mule most of the time.

[doc henderson]

the chain brake was just as you describe this clutch.  It took several hours and taking it to a dealer was discussed.  it came apart when it threw a chain.  I do not remember the exact details, but the brake was in the engaged position, and we could not change it so had to pry and compress the spring and get so close and it would pop out.  It required us to practice many times and finally a little luck and sweat and it was back together.  had we taken it apart, it would have been easier.  My buddy worked in repair at a major case dealer here and has tons of experience at this kind of stuff.  It took both of us.  If it ever happens again, I will ship it to you.  his son worked at an outdoors business selling mowers and chainsaws and had seen this before and said there was no easy way to fix it or put it back together.  no special tool.  He was in Mississippi.

[Spike60]

I've always used a pair of snap ring pliers. Just a matter of seconds. Works on all of those springs up to the larger ones on the 385/390. 

[Old Greenhorn]

Some of these things can be a real bear to get right and one's frame of mind plays a big part many times. I had the chain brake mechanism on the clutch cover in the wrong position once it it confounded me for a bit, then I figured it out and it took about a minute to fix. Again, I don't recall how I did it. I do know I have talked with others who had this happen and they were beyond frustrated trying to fix it and wound up needing help or service. I bet Spike saw these things all the time and hoped he had popped in with a simple solution so we all learn.

Ah, there he is now. Well Bob, none of the pliers I had would work on this one. Pretty sure that's how I did the 450, but these springs were strong!

 No matter, I am good to go now.  

[Spike60]

My snap ring pliers are a decent size. I changed an awful lot of those springs, so I had to have something that worked quick. 

 That clutch was used on a lot of models, so they are lying around everywhere at a former shop near you. No cash needed, cold beer is the preferred  currency of choice. Especially in this thought it was over heat wave. 😫 

[rusticretreater]

Glad its "fixed".  Uh, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!  

[Old Greenhorn]

Yeah, it wasn't broke until I was working on it. :D But I learned something.
 I don't use clutch removal tools or a piston stop. I just stick the end of a beat up felling wedge in on the clutch shoulder and give it a sharp whack with another wedge. I see too many guys do this with a screwdriver or worse, a chisel. This is a BAD IDEA. That clutch is made from investment cast tool steel and it very hard to resist wear. Hardness contributes to brittleness and striking something that hard with a steel tool can cause is to shatter. Then you are really in a tough spot. Those plastic wedges work just great for me.

[doc henderson]

It was the side cover we were working on, and it had to go back together in the "hardest" position to fit back on the saw.  with a spring very compressed.  I am not a Husky guy.

[Guydreads]

I gave in last week and bought a clutch removal tool. Let me tell you, it's worth it. I have the same clutch on my Jonsered 2150. I had to take it off as I had mis-installed new crank seals twice (I do it right because I do it twice, stolen I know). I could not for the life of me get it off with the above mentioned method, so since I needed new seals anyway, I figured I might as well by the tool from the company I bought the seals from. Boy was that tool a life saver. It makes it so easy. Funny story as well. When I got into the cylinder, the base gasket had folded itself into one of the transfers, also causing a massive air leak. So, long story short, I put new seals in for the 3rd time, did a gasket delete, and the saw runs better than I ever remember now. 

[Old Greenhorn]

One of these days when I am ordering related stuff, I might get one but honestly the felling wedge method works every time for me, usually by the third shot and I could do it just as quick in the field if I needed to. It was just this one time that the spring popped out. Honestly (and I am not casting blame here) I think the one spring in there is a bit overbent because even when I got it snapped back in the tabs didn't settle in as cleanly as I have seen on any other clutch. I think I am seeing wear on the spring tabs, but haven't done  enough of them to really recognize it for sure.
 But yeah, I should probably get one too, they are easy to find. One of the tools I would like to find is the cleaning tool for bar grooves. I saw one at Boonville but for some incredibly stupid reason I did not buy it (or 3 of them). Having a tool that goes all the way in the groove can bring out an awful lot of junk. They are probably worth about $.50 so figure a 3 dollar selling cost. We should all have them on the bench, but who does? I use a flat nut pick and that works well, but those are hard to find too. :D