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WM lt35 waives in board at first 2"-3" of cut

Started by widetrackman, November 18, 2021, 01:47:56 AM

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widetrackman

Now and then I get about 4 waives in the first 3" of cut and they are not perpendicular, more like 15 deg. off perp. I think its got something to do how fast I enter the log but I am yet to figure out how fast or slow to go. My feed control will not let head creep real slow, no go, then starts moving faster than a creep. Seems simple but I just can't figure it out how fast or slow to go if that's the problem. The blade is sharp and a 747 T and after the first 3" cutts great with no waives. Suggestions appreciated.

Southside

Yup, you answered your own question. With that band you need to run the cut speed right up against the governor.

My 35 dosen't have the torque to enter the cut fast enough without dogging down the engine, so it's a slower entry then get more speed which stops those marks.
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

SawyerTed

I went through a time where I had a wave or two at the beginning of the cut. My LT 35 wouldn't let me move the head slow enough.  After running troubleshooting per the manual, replacing the speed potentiometer, checking the feed motor belt, it got worse.  Finally figured out the feed motor brushes needed replacing.  Once I did that a slow entry into the log at least a blade width was possible before running up the feed speed to cutting speed. 
Woodmizer LT50, WM BMS 250, WM BMT 250, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher

widetrackman

Quote from: Southside on November 18, 2021, 07:41:42 AM
Yup, you answered your own question. With that band you need to run the cut speed right up against the governor.

My 35 dosen't have the torque to enter the cut fast enough without dogging down the engine, so it's a slower entry then get more speed which stops those marks.
Are you saying enter the log at a high feed rate short of bringing the governor in?

WV Sawmiller

   Also I would check the blades for tilt with the clip on tool from WM to see if the blade is perfectly parallel to the mill bed. Its an easy fix if the front is higher or lower than the back to adjust it if needed.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Southside

Enter as fast as you can without dragging the RPM or causing the band to dive, then increase the feed speed. 

Watch the sawdust, it should be course like grits and coming off the band in a tight, hose pattern, before it gets to the guide roller. Also your boards should be practically dust free as they come off the mill. Leaving packed sawdust is a sign of either too slow of a feed rate or too much water being applied to the band. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

cutterboy

Don't worry about those first 2or3 inches. That is why the logs come with an extra 6''.  That happens to most of us from time to time, at least those of us who have small mills. I've never had a customer complain or even mention anything about it to me.
To underestimate old men and old machines is the folly of youth. Frank C.

widetrackman

Quote from: cutterboy on November 18, 2021, 06:52:22 PM
Don't worry about those first 2or3 inches. That is why the logs come with an extra 6''.  That happens to most of us from time to time, at least those of us who have small mills. I've never had a customer complain or even mention anything about it to me.
Good to hear. I thought about trimming the boards but too much unnecessary labor.

Southside

Some customers actually request marks on their lumber.
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

widetrackman

Quote from: Southside on November 18, 2021, 06:20:53 PM
Enter as fast as you can without dragging the RPM or causing the band to dive, then increase the feed speed.

Watch the sawdust, it should be course like grits and coming off the band in a tight, hose pattern, before it gets to the guide roller. Also your boards should be practically dust free as they come off the mill. Leaving packed sawdust is a sign of either too slow of a feed rate or too much water being applied to the band.
Well lots damp fuzzy coarse (sort of) saw dust on the boards with slight light ripple close together with new blade. I have been using lots water mix as I was milling SYP, also maybe to slow. I haven't got enough experience to get the speed figured out. I have read somewhere that about 25-30 fpm for a lt 35 w/ 25 gas hp. Don't know might calibrate the feed knob by marking the cabinet below the pointer then learn from there. I also noticed with the blade installed per WM specs the back of the blade is running a 1/8 to 3/16  from the guide flange on both guides. It appears guides are running about a 1/16 from the blade gulet. The Mill came this way and as only 6 hrs. I hate to start adjusting stuff as I have never been around or operated a Mill. Hope not TMI am I getting to technical. Thanks for any help as I need it.

Southside

Your sawdust should come off the board by just flipping it over.  If you have to scrape it off then you are running way too much water.  First, check you drive belt tension, it's recommended to check it after the first 20 hours then every 50 hours after that, but it's one of the most common source of problems and frequently overlooked.  A loose drivebelt will cause your band to slip in the cut and drop FPM it's cutting at, resulting in the band diving or raising in the cut when it encounters grain changes, knots, etc.  

Sounds like your roller guides are set up for something more like a 10° or 4° band, they have a much shallower gullet than what you are running.  You could get away with 3/16" to 1/4" between the back of the band and the flange and be fine, this will help prevent the back of the band hitting the flange in hard conditions.   

Are you mixing your water with detergent of some kind?  Sounds like you are using way too much.  Cotton Picker Spindle Lube Cleaner is a great product that is water soluable and will keep your bands clean of SYP pitch.  You mix it into the water until the tank looks milky and that's about the right amount.  

As far as speed goes, you really can't put a number on it because sawing boards from an 8" cant is completely different than opening up the same log when it was 25".  The only thing I can say is that you need to listen to the motor and push the speed until it wants to drop RPM's then back off just a touch.  It will be a different speed for every condition.  

I like the regular Turbo 7 on my 35.  It works great for me in SYP, Oak, Gum, etc.  I have not run the 747 personally but have read how it's marketed and have heard back from guys who have run them.  Woodmizer will tell you that you can't run a regular Turbo on a 35, that's all I run on mine.  If you get a chance, try a regular Turbo 7 and see how it does for you.  If you find youself up this way give me a shout and I will give you one, I have a pile of them in 158".  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

widetrackman

Quote from: Southside on November 18, 2021, 09:46:51 PM
Your sawdust should come off the board by just flipping it over.  If you have to scrape it off then you are running way too much water.  First, check you drive belt tension, it's recommended to check it after the first 20 hours then every 50 hours after that, but it's one of the most common source of problems and frequently overlooked.  A loose drivebelt will cause your band to slip in the cut and drop FPM it's cutting at, resulting in the band diving or raising in the cut when it encounters grain changes, knots, etc.  

Sounds like your roller guides are set up for something more like a 10° or 4° band, they have a much shallower gullet than what you are running.  You could get away with 3/16" to 1/4" between the back of the band and the flange and be fine, this will help prevent the back of the band hitting the flange in hard conditions.  

Are you mixing your water with detergent of some kind?  Sounds like you are using way too much.  Cotton Picker Spindle Lube Cleaner is a great product that is water soluable and will keep your bands clean of SYP pitch.  You mix it into the water until the tank looks milky and that's about the right amount.  

As far as speed goes, you really can't put a number on it because sawing boards from an 8" cant is completely different than opening up the same log when it was 25".  The only thing I can say is that you need to listen to the motor and push the speed until it wants to drop RPM's then back off just a touch.  It will be a different speed for every condition.  

I like the regular Turbo 7 on my 35.  It works great for me in SYP, Oak, Gum, etc.  I have not run the 747 personally but have read how it's marketed and have heard back from guys who have run them.  Woodmizer will tell you that you can't run a regular Turbo on a 35, that's all I run on mine.  If you get a chance, try a regular Turbo 7 and see how it does for you.  If you find youself up this way give me a shout and I will give you one, I have a pile of them in 158".  
The dust will fall off when I turn the board or is easy to Wisk off with a brush, so maybe water flow is ok. I am using the fluid that came with the Mill and the Mill came with a 10 deg. blade that I removed and installed a 747 T. For laughs, 1st blade running, backed into cant, scratch one, 2nd  blade hit backstop, scratch #2, 3rd 747 T blade cutting 8-10" cants real well (about 250 bf), no ripples and flat until I went to a 14" cant, milled several 14 x1.5, then feed slowed and almost  stalled the head, I then helped it along to finish cut, big mistake I now have a  1/4" dip on top of the cant that I will have square. Should I have stopped and backed out ? Is this a sign that the blade is dull, however it felt sharp but installed a new blade and will see what happens tomorrow. BTW as to water mix I was planning using water and a shot of Cascade like Magicman does when factory stuff is gone. Again thanks for you time and help.

Southside

Yes it sounds like that band is dull. You want to remove a band while it's still sharp and has just lost it's edge. They will sharpen easier and give you more total life BF as a result. 

What does the sawdust coming out of the chute look like? If it's fine and powdery then it's definitely dull.

If it's windshield washer fluid in your tank the only benefit that has with SYP is your hose won't freeze. It doesn't cut pine pitch.

Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Stephen1

SS does a good job of helping with the problems. @6 hrs of run time I would get out the tension tool and check your drive belt tension. 250 BD FT is getting to the limit of blade sharpness. It doesn't take a lot dirt to dull a blade. 
Try a 739T and see how they work. 
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

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