Anybody use this sharpener??

[parrisw]

Just wondering if anybody has used one of these benchtop chain sharpener's.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Electric-Chainsaw-Sharpener-Grinder-For-Stihl-Chain-Saw_W0QQitemZ330025124300QQihZ014QQcategoryZ85915QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks

[scsmith42]

Parris, I have not personally used one of those chain sharpeners, but every other Chicago brand tool that I've tried has been a total piece of junk.  I will not buy another one.

They (Chicago) would not even stand behind the warranty on the last tool (a $300.00 concrete vibrator), because someone on e-bay had bought it and resold it.  It appears to me that this is the same type of deal that you're looking at.

Good luck...

Scott

[Raphael]

  The item description is lacking some important details and the picture isn't helping much, near as I can tell from the picture the structural members are plastic.  It doesn't look like the head angle and motor reverse, I'd ask about that before bidding.  I'd also get the range of motion for the head angle and if there is an offset adjustment on the chain clamp (guide).
  I generally avoid auctions where they spend more time generating cutesy snow flakes and advertising their other items than they do describing what they are selling.
  If I were looking for a sharpener on eBay, I'd be looking for an old Foley-Belsaw or similiar 'professional' unit.

[leweee]

Will....real chainsaw chain grinders start at about $300.00 & up. :P
           Stay away from the junk :

Bailey's   LINK

If you get real serious about grinding chain you use one of these. ;D

Bailey's  LINK

[parrisw]

Ok, thanks for being Honest guys, I will stay away from it then, I looks like the same one that Horbour Frieght sells, but I m not sure.  Maybe I can find a good deal on a used pro one.  I m not ready to spend $300usd on a sharpener for the amount I use my saws, I thought since I cut wood with    2 other people maybe we can split costs on a good one.

Thanks

[parrisw]

Ok, I found another on ebay, its a Oregon, it doesn't look like their pro model, does anybody know anything about this one.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/OREGON-MINI-CHAINSAW-SHARPENER-GRINDER-115V-BENCH-MOUNT_W0QQitemZ7742251282QQihZ018QQcategoryZ85915QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks

[beenthere]

Couple of things come to mind.
It's been discussed before, and learning to hand file a chain is better for many, compared to the marginal job one gets from a grinder. Getting one set up for all the right angles and depths just right for both right and left 'teeth' takes more talent than hand filing correctly, IMO. 
Second, this one being a 'mini' bench model, leads one to suspect it isn't as good as the big boys.

I'd only use a grinder if the chain teeth were damaged from a foreign object (stone, metal, insulator, fence wire, etc.) and needed a lot of tooth filed off evenly all around the chain.
Just food for thought.   Sometimes one just has to find out for themselves. It will happen.

[parrisw]

fair enough, I agree with you about learing to do it by hand, and I ve done it like that for a long time and Im ok at it, I usually use a oregon file guide, the type the file mounts into. this type

[PawNature]

Well Personally I have one that I use got from Harbor Freight. Paid about 29 bucks I think. I use occasionally no daily. I have had very good luck with it. Although you can tell that it is cheap made.
I would never expect a company to stand behind anything I got off ebay unless I contacted them first.

[micky boy]

I've got  a grinder sharpener, one of the dearer ones. I haven't used it for ages, I got fed up with it. Why ?................
It takes far too long to sharpen a chain
I only used it with chains that were really blunt - like too hard to file (Mostly harvesters)
If a chain is blunt that bad then by the time you have finished grinding it there aint much tooth left. Once a chain is hit bad it's never really the same again
You can EASILY over heat the tooth buy pushing too hard
By the time you've ground a few badly blunted chains the abrasive wheel shows signs of wear, I turned them over, but not as good.
Basically, I would stick to a file. You can get a much sharper result by eye and feel.
Thats just how I find it, although I dare say that some may get on with them fine.
A lot of money for a lot of time consuming hassle, I think.

[parrisw]

Ok thanks again guys, I will stick with the file for now, if my chain is badly hit, I will just take it in and get it dressed for $10 or whatever they charge locally here.

[Al_Smith]

 A real cheap alternative to big grinder is a Dremel type grinder,made by Oregon.It works real well for an ocassionaly grounded or rocked chain.

On the subject of hand filing,once you get the hang of it,not a problem to do a 20" loop in less than 5 minutes,on the saw.I've heard of the "90 second tickle" but have yet to see it. :D

[Kevin]

The little roller guides designed for your Husqvarana saws are a good buy.

[parrisw]

Not sure what you mean by roller guides???

Will

[beenthere]

parrisw
I think Kevin means the roller guide (also called combi gauge) that Husky sells (I adapted one to fit my Stihl chain) that snaps on the chain and the hand-held file is held on two rollers. Easy to quickly sharpen a chain, I found. Here is a pic. It is on the Husky site (search Combi gauge Husqvarna) and this is a picture. Included is a plate for filing the depth guides for either hardwood or softwood sawing. For me it works good. About $8 US

[parrisw]

Thanks man, that looks pretty cool.  Have to get one and try it.

[beenthere]

Here is a pic I snapped of my combi gauge file holder on my old saw chain (old, tired chain too  ).  Shows the two rollers holding the file at the right depth, and the steel late with two locations for softwood and hardwood depth gauge settings. The depth gauge is located in the narrow slot.

[parrisw]

Cool thanks man, so that combi gauge doesn't give you the angle of the cutter though??  Doesn't look like it.

Thanks again.

Will

[beenthere]

True, it doesn't 'hold' the file at the right angle, but teeth have the angle scribed (etched) on the tooth as well as the guide sets at the right angle so can be sighted in, so to speak.

[Al_Smith]

Now then,on the"angle" ,true Oregon and Stihl have witness marks or guidlines build into the chain.Usually at 30 degrees.The easiest file guide is the one made by Oregon.It has ,usually,depending on the size,30,35 and on occasion,25 degree marks,scribbed on the guide.
I use them ,myself,about every second or third filing,just to keep things in alignment.Other than that,I file free hand.Believe or not,I'm usually pretty close.

[parrisw]

Just cut some Oak today with my 394 after sharpening free hand, I haven't done it free hand in a while, and this time I thought I would do free hand, took my time, and to my surprise it cut awesome went through it like butter.  I think I will do it this way from now on.  Except if the chain gets rocked out or something.

[rebocardo]

I have been using the Speedmaster ($150) I bought from Bailey's and have been happy with it for what it is, a real time saver, made in Italy, with translated English directions that I could not understand  :D  that cost less then $200.

I have already worn out one wheel.

Some days I can go through 8 chains. Even with full skip and 93 DL, 4-8 28" chains is a lot to sharpen. Yes, I could get them sharper by hand, but, this is so much easier and gives me time to do other things such as watch the History Channel and Mail Call   ;)

[biggkidd]

I've got one of the HF chain saw sharpeners. I bought it 12-15 years ago for $19 or $29 I love it for repairing damaged chains. I generally sharpen by hand but when I hit something embedded and foul one up good the grinder is the way to go. I hear lots of horror stories about them and learned it's the way people use them not the tool itself. Getting the right left angles the same can be a little tricky but mine has been well worth the money. Where I see most if not all people messing up with these sharpeners is over heating the teeth and removing to much metal to fast. SLOW and easy rocks on!