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My Master Bedroom Floor Project

Started by firefighter ontheside, October 12, 2021, 03:39:16 PM

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firefighter ontheside

I have to figure out how to run my flooring into the logs on one side of the bedroom.  The floor comes into a log about 2/3 up the log, so I have to figure out a way to make it look good.  I'm thinking about scribing the border board to the log and trying to cut a 45 on the bottom.  Another option might be to to put some sort of a trim piece on top of the flooring board and scribe it to the log.  Anyone have any bright ideas.  On the first floor, the logs sit on a 1" board which created a space for the flooring to tuck in under the logs.  That's not an option upstairs.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed


kantuckid

Well I don't have any seriously unique ideas on scribing the floor to log but can say that that i go fairly good at doing that! My originals have slight gaps from logs drying which is a challenge but my ERC porch floors the logs were long dry and spot on in either direction. Ends are easier of course as you can take another shot at the meet ups. 

Waterlox is sold by hardware chains and I think I got mine from ACE through a store that didn't stock it. Comes in 4 gal cases.  Non-low VOC matters to me as I HATE lo-VOC finishes! It is also used on my wormy chestnut dining table and honestly the best stuff I've ever used varnish wise. 

I saw a floor yesterday in an 1880's house in rural Hazel Green, KY that was very interesting. The meet-up was to see a guy who does custom sawing and I had no cell # to reach him to see about him sawing 6MBF EWP for my wall logs. 

We sort of knew each other from me selling him a wood stove last year. he'd been around in my woodshop and seen the many types of woods I have and had told me to see his house they'd remodeled.  The house was built by a French carpenter brought to the USA to build this house for a small town/ village actually, local banker and the bricks are handmade from the land behind it, floors are alternating strips of parquet walnut and ash. The staircase is all handmade walnut and stunning as well. Even the entry door is handmade and has neat brass period original hardware and glass. All wood work was worked by hand on site. 
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

firefighter ontheside

I'll do a few samples of how I can run the flooring into the log wall and see what looks best.  Likely I am not going to cut the logs to accept the flooring.  

The red elm that I made into flooring is really nice.  It was the first time I have worked with red elm.  That stuff made my planer protest more than any other wood I have planed.  I was worried that the results would be similar when running the flooring with the shaper, but it didn't seem much different than white oak.  I really like the figure the elm has, especially from where all the epicormic sprouts were.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

Tom King

Get a Mirka backup pad for your Bosch sander.  Mine has run boxes of sanding disks, and the pad on the machine still looks like new.

Mirka 9956 6-Inch diameter Abranet Grip Faced Pad Protector 5-Pack - Hook And Loop Discs - Amazon.com

firefighter ontheside

Thanks @Tom King I just ordered one.  I just measured the buffer we have at the firehouse.  The fiber pads we have for it measure 17".  Presumably that means the buffer is a 16" as you mentioned.  If your offer still stands, I would take you up on it to send me a disk.  
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

Tom King

PM your address, and see what the finish recommends for sanding between coats.  Some of them are so fine, they might be too fine.

Tom King

You will need to buy a 16" pad.  Red, or white, it doesn't matter.  You need one of those to hold the disk in place.  A 17" pad will keep you off the wall, and make it hard to tell where you set the disk under it.

firefighter ontheside

Thanks Tom, I will look at the finish when I get home from work tomorrow morning and let you know what it says.  I will get a 16" pad.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

alan gage

It looks like you're going to have a beautiful floor and I can appreciate all the work you're going to. I did the same thing (with fewer species) last year. I also used a water based finish because I wanted to be able to put down multiple coats/day, have something that dried quicker so less settling dust would stick in the finish, and I didn't want something that would yellow over time. 

But I decided I did want the initial pop that comes from an oil based finish to give the floor a little richer look. So what I did was put down two coats of shellac seal coat (Zinsser) first. It dries very quickly and the stuff that's labeled "seal coat" is non-waxed so you can put anything on top of it. Another benefit is that it doesn't raise the grain very much and then seals the wood so your water based finish doesn't raise it either. 

I've used the same process (shellac seal coat under water based) for my cabinets and other woodworking projects with success and am happy with the process and results. 

Just something to think about.

My floor was mainly white (bur) oak and ash with some elm, hackberry, and red oak mixed in.





Alan
Timberking B-16, a few chainsaws from small to large, and a Bobcat 873 Skidloader.

firefighter ontheside

That looks great, Alan.  The seal coat is a good idea.  I have used it several times as a seal coat for finishing pine.  It is supposed to seal the pitch and keep it from bleeding thru the final finish.  Fast drying was definitely a priority for me too.  I figure I'll get the finish done in 2 days if I'm lucky.  

I made what I hope is the last of the flooring today.  I cut all the ends square and brought it all into the housel.  If I'm a little short, I'll just go back out to the shop and scrape up some more wood to make more flooring.  I still have walnut, elm, white oak and some maple too.  If I'm short it will likely be because I didn't have enough of one size to go all the way across the room.  I know I have enough in total square footage.

 
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

WDH

Alan, that is a beautiful floor.  I want one.   
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

firefighter ontheside

Its take out the carpet day and clean up some of the logs that were never properly buffed 20 years ago.  I was in a hurry to move into the house, since I didn't have it done before we got married and we needed to live there.  The logs look much nicer now.  I hate carpet tack strips.


 

 
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

Crusarius

Allan that floor looks really nice. Can I get a closeup of it? I am still trying to decide on finishes to bring out the depth of the grain and protect it.

My goto for the last lots of projects has been polycrylic water base poly urethane. But I would like something that really brings out the grain.

alan gage

Quote from: Crusarius on November 29, 2021, 02:56:35 PM
Allan that floor looks really nice. Can I get a closeup of it? I am still trying to decide on finishes to bring out the depth of the grain and protect it.

My goto for the last lots of projects has been polycrylic water base poly urethane. But I would like something that really brings out the grain.
All I got:






Alan
Timberking B-16, a few chainsaws from small to large, and a Bobcat 873 Skidloader.

Crusarius

Thanks Alan. does look nice. I just do whatever I can to avoid the yellow tint.

firefighter ontheside

I'm going to use a product called Last 'n Last.  It is water based and is supposed to be crystal clear.  
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

Crusarius

have to let me know how that works and looks. very interested.

firefighter ontheside

I got about half of the floor installed today.  I hope to get the rest done tomorrow.  It will be close.  I really like how it is looking.

 

 
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

firefighter ontheside

Quote from: Crusarius on November 30, 2021, 08:06:38 AM
have to let me know how that works and looks. very interested.
I will let you know in this thread if you keep following it.  I hope to be putting finish on it this weekend.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

Crusarius


WDH

Can't wait to see the finished floor then I can pick out my favorite board  ;D.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

metalspinner

The walnut and cherry will really help in the long term to keep contrast in the floor. 
Looking great!
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

Tom King

I found the disks yesterday, and hope to remember to mail them today.

firefighter ontheside

Quote from: Tom King on December 01, 2021, 08:36:04 AM
I found the disks yesterday, and hope to remember to mail them today.
Danny, I'd be happy to send you some pics of my favotites to help you find yours.  What are some characteristics that you see in a "favorite" board.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

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