Lube-Mizer spray nozzles

John_Haylow · May 02, 2009, 05:34:30 PM

I'm trying to replace the two brass spray nozzles for my lube-mizer system. It looks like the previous owner used vise grips and rounded over the hex head on them. I can't seem to budge them even after spraying penetrating oil on them.

The vise grips I have are old and the teeth are not the best so maybe a new set may help. Any thoughts?

John

Bibbyman · May 02, 2009, 05:40:37 PM

Quote from: John_Haylow on May 02, 2009, 05:34:30 PM
I'm trying to replace the two brass spray nozzles for my lube-mizer system. It looks like the previous owner used vise grips and rounded over the hex head on them. I can't seem to budge them even after spraying penetrating oil on them.

The vise grips I have are old and the teeth are not the best so maybe a new set may help. Any thoughts?

John

I had the same problem but I WAS the nut that rounded them off! One idea would be to take the whole assemble or at least the guide block off. That way you can put it in a bench vice and get to the fittings better.

When you put them back in, don't put them in so tight!

Here is a link to an earlier post I made about the same problem...

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,30418.msg512935.html#msg512935

Hi-Country Orange · May 02, 2009, 05:46:32 PM

i've had to use a good pair of vise grips & then smack them
with a hammer 8)

Dave Shepard · May 02, 2009, 06:37:44 PM

Yes, I had a similar problem. I wonder what they are using to stick them in there?

Bibbyman · May 02, 2009, 07:59:12 PM

Quote from: Dave Shepard on May 02, 2009, 06:37:44 PM
Yes, I had a similar problem. I wonder what they are using to stick them in there?

I assembled them when I updated to the new Super Performance Guides. I didn't put anything on them. (maybe I should have?) I just kept on crankin' until they were tight and then turn them more until they shot water/lube on the blade. I've learned since not to put them in so tight.

Hi-Country Orange · May 02, 2009, 08:37:07 PM

one might try putting some antiseize on them

backwoods sawyer · May 02, 2009, 11:14:25 PM

The wrench should be hanging on the wall or laying on a shelf near the saw. If the wall is falling down look in the weeds near there. It could also be in the shop near the workbench, or with the spare saws, but a specialty wrench like this is usually kept handy.

One you get the guide assembly off and mounted in a good vise, take a file and file two sides flat so that you can use the next sixe smaller wrench to turn it out, don't force it but just keep adding steady pressure until it releases. If it still wants to round off, you will end up either cutting the end off and using an easy out or drilling and tapping it.
All it took was one time for me and I replaced mine with stainless spray nozzles at about three times the price of brass ($21.00 each). However, they do not round off like the soft brass ones.

One other thing, clean or replace the inline filter if they are plugging up.

fstedy · May 03, 2009, 12:29:52 AM

Try some teflon tape on them works wonders!!

LeeB · May 03, 2009, 12:42:43 AM

Teflon tape is actually meant to be a thread lubricant. Working as a thread sealer is just a by product.

Bibbyman · May 03, 2009, 02:00:28 AM

Quote from: backwoods sawyer on May 02, 2009, 11:14:25 PM
All it took was one time for me and I replaced mine with stainless spray nozzles at about three times the price of brass ($21.00 each). However, they do not round off like the soft brass ones.

Where did you find a stainless steel nozzle? I couldn't find a brass one local.

backwoods sawyer · May 04, 2009, 01:08:40 AM

I went down to one of the two local sawmill supply stores and bought them there so we could compare and measure the size of the orifice. You can also order them on line as well. I forget the orifice size, however you can order the smaller size and drill it out larger if it needs more. These are quite common in industrial edger's and there are several different styles. When they live inside of an edger and are spraying along side of a dozen or so others it creates a tough environment and Teflon tape is no match, but the stainless steel is. You get what you pay for. I have asked woodmizer if they would stock the stainless and they said no they were too expensive. However, for anyone that has had to spend an hour or so removing a stuck nozzle the price is well worth the peace of mind.

Bibbyman · May 04, 2009, 03:02:58 AM

Quote from: backwoods sawyer on May 04, 2009, 01:08:40 AM
I went down to one of the two local sawmill supply stores and bought them there so we could compare and measure the size of the orifice.

Ah! That's why I couldn't find them local. We don't have a sawmill supply store any where near us.

John_Haylow · May 10, 2009, 05:27:10 PM

I managed to get the old nozzles cleaned and working. I will keep spraying them with penetrating oil and hopefully they will break free and I can replace them. Thanks for all the tips.

John

Dan_Shade · May 10, 2009, 08:28:44 PM

McMaster-Carr sells stainless nozzles:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#flat-fan-spray-nozzles/=1thwpx all the way at the bottom.

John_Haylow · May 11, 2009, 05:32:53 AM

Thanks Dan.
John

Tracker65 · March 18, 2024, 05:06:10 PM

Does anyone know what orifice size the OEM nozzles are? I see McMaster-Care sells replacements but you need to know the orifice size.

terrifictimbersllc · March 18, 2024, 05:55:33 PM

I can measure it tomorrow with some drill bits. I know it's less than a 16th so my guess is 3/64 or 1/32. I have drilled them out at a 16th and I regretted it. They don't work that well that big.

terrifictimbersllc · March 20, 2024, 07:50:54 AM

New woodmizer lubemizer nozzle.

A 0.030 safety pin fits, a 0.036 #20 brad does not.

So if it is fractional inch, it is 1/32".

I put the safety pin in the toolbox for cleaning it out.

YellowHammer · March 20, 2024, 08:09:07 AM

If you want to get it out, put a propane torch on it and heat the assembly some, both will expand to slightly different ratios so it may break the corrosion or galling.

You can buy a set of "stripped nut removers" for an impact driver and those work real well.

Or if you just want to gorilla twist it out, see if you can get an old school pipe or monkey wrench to it. They are designed to grip the round surfaces of pipe and would either take it out or twist it off.

Either way, it's brass, so replace it using Teflon tape, just past finger tight, and it'll come off easy next time.

tacks Y · March 20, 2024, 08:13:40 AM

Taking apart threaded fittings or nuts a hammer tapping around the outer parting will help free up. Use a larger hammer as a backup. Not sure what the part looks like that these are threaded into if this is an option.

Magicman · March 20, 2024, 08:33:36 AM

Quote from: Tracker65 on March 18, 2024, 05:06:10 PMDoes anyone know what orifice size the OEM nozzles are?

I can not answer OEM. I have a new one but I would not have anything to measure the orifice. Just thinking about maybe my acetylene tip clean outs?

My drilled out nozzle measures 3/64.

Magicman · March 20, 2024, 08:42:46 AM

Quote from: tacks Y on March 20, 2024, 08:13:40 AMTaking apart threaded fittings or nuts a hammer tapping around the outer parting will help free up. Use a larger hammer as a backup.

This advice should be read and remembered by any and everyone that takes stuff apart.