Electrical help needed

[Hagwoodhunter]

'88 Lt 30 wires are rat chewed and so forth and I have been trying to get it the up-down motor running and from what I can tell I need to rewire ..... but I want it to be a simple as possible.  like one switch that I flip and up/down has power as well as forward/reverse. no voltmeter no hour meter since They haven't worked in a decade or so.  

1. Is this possible?
2. What would it look like?
3. I have a very limited understanding of wiring. 
 
Easy to follow pictures, please.    I'm just lost right now.    My motor has its own key for starting it up 19hp Kohler

[beav]

I don't think you will find a simpler wiring scheme than the original supplied on your mill. Imho your best plan would be to get an original wiring schematic and go with it. The factory or someone else here can supply it

[SawyerTed]

Have you registered your mill with the HQ?   Once you have, you can get support and get the manual with schematic. 

[Hagwoodhunter]

Yes I have registered with Hq but I do not plan to put the voltmeter or the hour meter back on since they haven't worked and I don't see a need for them at this point. Just need a switch in place of a key.  But ill take a look at the wiring diagram from HQ I have an idea f what needs tp be done
  

[Southside]

Volt and hour meter will have their own circuit so it will be easy to disregard them.  The easiest solution is the get the original wiring diagram from WM 

[Ben Cut-wright]

'88 Lt 30 wires are rat chewed and so forth and I have been trying to get it the up-down motor running and from what I can tell I need to rewire ..... but I want it to be a simple as possible.  like one switch that I flip and up/down has power as well as forward/reverse. no voltmeter no hour meter since They haven't worked in a decade or so.  

1. Is this possible?
2. What would it look like?
3. I have a very limited understanding of wiring.

Easy to follow pictures, please.    I'm just lost right now.    My motor has its own key for starting it up 19hp Kohler

What do you have to work with, how much of the original components are still there?  Do you mean to say "one switch" is desired or that one switch currently has "up/down and forward/reverse?

"haven't worked in a decade" means the mill has been idle or the functions have not worked?
 
It would take much more than pictures to provide an understanding of the wiring control of these functions, IMO.  Someone with little to no electrical experience might be able to connect terminals to original wire colors IF the wiring has never been altered.  Replacing a drum switch might require added complication.   Deleting the hour meter is of no consequence.
 
The "voltmeter not working in a decade" means there has been an alternator retrofit?  Are you interested in returning the wiring to original/as built, or reinventing the wheel?

[Hagwoodhunter]

ok from what I can tell the wiring is anything but original. I stripped it all out yesterday ill be coming back with the drum switches(which I assume are the forward-reverse and up-down switches) wired in parallel to the battery with a toggle switch.  the wiring going from switches and speed control seems intact with only a little cracking.  Then I will run a hot wire to the Kohler 19hp engine I replaced 6 or 7 years ago. then ground it to the frame. I have used the mill in the past year to answer your questions as to use.  it appeared there had been many patchworks done.    

I believe this should allow me to flip the toggle switch and have power to the head unit. 

[Ben Cut-wright]

Understanding wiring diagrams dictates you can determine what all components are and how they interact with each other.  With no clear understanding of what "patchworks" have been done, modifying different schemes from the manufacture's diagrams in order to add more patchwork could be futile. 


It appears you are adverse to a key switch, prefer the toggle.  Not sure you are gonna be able to keep it simple by doing that. 


Apologize for having more questions than answers.  From my vantage point,  your dilemma is not simple.   Trying to get a picture of (what you think you need/want to do) by reading your posts is confusing.  How is the engine presently wired? Is there starting, charging and kill wiring?   What is the purpose of the  "hot wire run to the engine and then grounded to the frame?  Do you intend to have charging indication of any sort? 


You "replaced the engine years ago, used it in the past year". So, what electrical portion is working and what isn't working? 

[Hagwoodhunter]

I apologize for being so inept at using the correct terminology. 

ok, Let me try again 
my rebuild consists of:

I have a wire running from the positive terminal of the battery to one side of the toggle switch.
On the other side of said switch, I have both positive wires from the F/R and U/D drum switches.

On the negative terminal, I have a wire running that pigtails into the negative wire wires from the drum switches on the F/R and U/D drum switches.

I also have a wire going from the positive terminal that I was planning to use to start the Motor.

When I turn on the toggle switch I am able to use both u/d and F/R motor to move the saw head ......now I can't get Powerhead to turn over.  the powerhead has its own separate Key switch attached to it. I really do appreciate the help.



 

 

[Ben Cut-wright]

Reason I ask so many questions is, I don't know anymore about your current wiring and where you wish to go with it than I read in your posts.  My advice is to use as much of the manufacturer's design as possible, including any retrofits or upgrades. 


The engine has components that make starting and stopping possible, looks like.  If you wish to use those, I see no problem.  The starter must have a battery cable from positive node to the starter relay.  The starter housing must have a good path back to the battery negative terminal.  If you have been operating the engine without the battery, it should continue to operate the same.  The positive wire you show going to the engine can be used to take advantage of the engine charging system.  That circuit will be used to provide charging voltage for the battery  and operate the electrical equipment, up to charging capacity  You should include circuit protection for all loads as well as provision for switched disconnect. All this is easily done with the original components.


Your toggle switch, (I don't favor toggle switches if vibration is a factor) must be capable of conducting the load of the up/down motor, the forward/reverse motor, and whatever charging amps the engine provides.  Not all at the same time, and offset by whatever charging amperage is available.  It is advisable to have some sort of charging indicator as well.  Something better than a dead battery, that is.

Might be possible to move the ignition switch on the engine to the panel.  Then starting, stopping, and power distribution can be controlled at one location.  Wiring the panel switch for starting and power isn't difficult.  WoodMizer offers a breaker to attach at the switch for circuit protection.  A volt meter is easily installed in the original hole and gives more information than an amp meter.  Does your engine have low-oil pressure shut-off? 

You are correct  that the drum switches in your drawing are wired in parallel. The switch is wired in series. Get yourself a 12 volt test light and a multimeter to test and confirm your work. 

Good luck.

[trapper]

When The switch on my 87 lt30 failed I took it to napa and they told me it was the same switch used in a willies jeep It has aux, off, run, start in that order  With aux up down and travel work but not hour meter run.      run position up down travel and hour meter work.  There is a separate engine kill button 16 hp briggs

[Stephen1]

I see your toggle switch as bypassing the fuses. 

[Remle]

The short answer is you lost power to the starter solenoid. Take a test light and check for power at the starter solenoid with key switch in the start position. Their are several possible causes. Lost ground, mice chewed wire behind engine cover, bad key switch or you are powering the wrong terminal at the molded plug.
As to your proposed wiring of the UP/DOWN and FWD/REV drum switches, they should be wired separately and current protection by fuses, as well as power to the engine.
Check it out and post back the results.

[Hagwoodhunter]

Update called HQ got a wiring diagram. And have wired it back to original diagram. Now my head motors are dead and motor won't start from either ignition  I'm going to get a new ignition and wire it in.   I'm thinking of don't have the motor grounded well. 

[Remle]

I rewired one just like it last year.
How are you wiring the ground.  In addition to the battery ground to the mast of the saw, on the left side of the panel/box ( it's not really a box as their is nothing covering the back ) holding the key switch , their are two 1/4" holes, one at the bottom and one at the top, originally, another ground wire went from the battery to the bottom hole of the panel holding the key switch, then another wire went from the top hole of the panel up to the bolt holding the engine to the base plate. This provided grounds to both the panel/key switch and engine.
PS: the ground wire should be rated for at least 30 amps. If you need more information please ask, let us know how you are making out.

[Hagwoodhunter]

got her done took me the better part of the day now to just add fuel and hope she starts. my up-down motor has seen better days probably going to have to replace it and the drum switch.  Lots of blades that need to be sharpened and set but I got time right now to do so.  Thank you all for your help. I couldn't figure out how to wire it so I could start it from the mast but oh well.  I opted out of the toggle switch and just replaced the ignition switch on the mast. Thanks again  8)

[Remle]

Glad you have gotten the U/D, F/R functions working. Switching the motor switch to function from the engine to the mast is not terribly difficult, but leave it for another time. Hopefully it will fire right up for you.  Should you have a problem , please let us know.
Remle

[Ben Cut-wright]

got her done took me the better part of the day now to just add fuel and hope she starts. my up-down motor has seen better days probably going to have to replace it and the drum switch.  Lots of blades that need to be sharpened and set but I got time right now to do so.  Thank you all for your help. I couldn't figure out how to wire it so I could start it from the mast but oh well.  I opted out of the toggle switch and just replaced the ignition switch on the mast. Thanks again  8)

Do not understand your last two sentences above.  The one seems to contradict the other.

Why was the starter motor not working?

What is the up/down motor doing that makes you think it "has seen better days"?
 
Drum switches, the ones I have received from WoodMizer,  have different wiring schemes than the OE. 

[Hagwoodhunter]

got her done took me the better part of the day now to just add fuel and hope she starts. my up-down motor has seen better days probably going to have to replace it and the drum switch.  Lots of blades that need to be sharpened and set but I got time right now to do so.  Thank you all for your help. I couldn't figure out how to wire it so I could start it from the mast but oh well.  I opted out of the toggle switch and just replaced the ignition switch on the mast. Thanks again  8)

Do not understand your last two sentences above.  The one seems to contradict the other.

Why was the starter motor not working?

What is the up/down motor doing that makes you think it "has seen better days"?
 
Drum switches, the ones I have received from WoodMizer,  have different wiring schemes than the OE.  

The U/D motor is very gritty and tough to turn.  And the contradictory is I have key switches on the motor and mast. 

Looking like a carb rebuild  on the motor let it sit too long it's my own fault.