Timberking blade problems

[Groo]

I am running a Timber King 2000 mill and I am getting too much blade wandering.
I am running the tension a little high, and that helps, but that leads to random blade snapping. Even with the tension cranked and the cutting rate set to a crawl, I still get the occasional wander that can ruin a whole log.

It is particularly bad with the Tamarack in the current pile, but it seams to do it with any wood, with or without knots.

[Kcwoodbutcher]

When you say wandering I am assuming you mean wavy cuts. This is more likely a blade problem not the mill. The blade may be dull or not have enough set or the hook angle may be wrong. Need a little more info before we can go any further. What blade are you using. Increasing the tension is not the answer.

[redbeard]

I run my tension at 1000, recomended is 1200 psi. I have had best performance at a lower setting. Make sure guide rollers are deflecting enough. And blade is not too close to flange on the rollers, I like to have 1/4". Check your tracking it could be culprit. Call Mike TK Tech support. I been having really good results using the ultra max blades. My mill is a B-20 06 model a bit different than the 2000 .

[1938farmall]

like redbeard said - "make sure the guide rollers are deflecting enough".  i've had good luck with about 1/4" on my tk1600.  seems like they slip out of position if not really socked down tight.  al

[Groo]

It normally cuts strait, but every so often the blade just takes a dive (more rarely it jumps up instead) sometimes it goes almost 2" before going back to the correct line. when I run it loose, every cut turns out like crap. That is with keeping the transit speed set so low it doesn't even drop the engine RPM (and now they put a more powerful engine in it...why?!?)

Quite honestly, I am tired of dealing with Timberking. I finally have computer for the mill that works somewhat OK (#3..and the new one, R06, doesn't measure 32nds anymore), and that took over a year. plus I've had problems with a trolley bearing cracking and switches breaking. The tension indicator is way off too. I go by spring deflection. The oil drain pipe is loose, but it isn't something that can be tightened without removing the engine. the hydraulic belt is way to light to transmit the power needed (OEM belt rated for less than 1hp!) and is not designed to allow the belt to be easily tensioned. Lets not forget all the sharp points they leave on the machine...a couple set up perfectly to put a huge gash in your fuel tank, and the rest that just significantly up my clothing and bandaid costs.

Basically, I am real disappointed with this mill. I shouldn't have had a quarter of the problems I've had with it in under 100 hours of use.

[redbeard]

On your cutting problems it sure sounds like your guide rollers are not plumb.  Do you have the procedures of plumbing your mill down?  It took me awhile to learn and once you understand it the fustrations will go away. Tracking is a must to know, then your guide rollers adjusting. Your cutting problems are no stranger to all of us dosent matter what brand. They all work the same on basic plumbing the blade to the saw head. Blade has to be level and line up on the guides. Too bad about the sharp edges all my steel is rounded and soft corners with a nice powder coated, Timberking replaced a few parts that didn't suit me and were really good about it. One mistake I made was I tried to fix problems on my own and didn't use tech support like I should have. I had my mill so out of whack after 100 hrs. That I spent 4-5 hr on the phone with mike starting from scratch and he talked me threw all the adjustments I just put the cell phone on speaker and I was wrenching as fast as he was talking. Keep talking to them they will work with you. Just keep in mind you will have to learn every single part on your mill and how it works. I learn something new everytime I saw a job and everyday I read the FF. Keep your head up the TK 2000 is a cadilac mill. I had a couple of spruce logs awhile back that no bandmill could saw watch out for compression.

[downeastmark]

I also have a timberking TK 2000 mill and i was having trouble with extreme dives and rises with my blade while sawing some tamarack after installing a brand new blade.  i adjusted and tweaked and could not figure out what was wrong. eventually i tried another new blade and it cut like there was never a problem.  must have just been a bad blade in the batch, or gotten dulled or out of set during shipping or storage.  you might have already tried this but for me being new to the game i've already found that often its the simple things that go overlooked.

[ladylake]

Is your blade staying clean, tamarack needs a lot of lube to keep the blade clean.  Steve

[pineywoods]

I don't have tamarack and don't run a TK, but your description sounds awful familiar. Do have plenty of southern yellow pine, which I am told is a lot like tamarack. The key to sawing that kind of logs is plenty of set. I try to keep a good sharp blade with 30 thou set available for problem logs. Many times, when all else fails, that band solves the problem. Like others said, the blade must be kept clean. Sap buildup effectively increases the thickness of the body, but doesn't extend the teeth, effectively reducing the amount of set. A bandsaw blade tries to follow the grain of the wood. When that happens, there must be enough wiggle room in the kerf for it to straighten out.

[Groo]

I think blade gunk build-up may have been the problem a couple of times, but not most of the time. I don't think It was ever just a bad blade. I have gone through several blades. some resharpened some latest and greatest TK sourced blades, some "leftovers" from last year. I cant tell a difference between any of them. we've got a bunch of blades out now getting resharpened. maybe it isn't too late to get the set increased on some of them.

I guess I'll try adjusting the blade rollers and see if it helps. I think I also tighten up the under track rollers a bit too. It really is kind of annoying to think it either left the factory out of whack, or it went out of alignment this quick (probably both). I was hoping to use the mill professionally, but I really question weather it is a professional quality mill

thanks for the pointers

[dmartin]

I have a Timberking B20 mill and am very satisfied with it. Both the design and construction of the mill are very good and reliable. I have had the same problem with wavy cuts from time to time and spent some time learning how to set the tracking and making sure everything is plumb. I don't want to start an argument over blades but I would suggest that you try some Timberwolf blades by Suffolk Machinery. I have used their blades for awhile with almost no trouble at all with wavy cuts. I use them and am very glad that I found them. I am not saying that Timberking blades are bad but give Timberwolf blades a try and you may be glad you did.

[5quarter]

Groo,

  I don't own a timberking, but your question has already been answered in the above posts. if you have tried every blade combo, then your trouble is due to operator error. less than 100 hrs on a sawmill is nothing. Not even broken in yet. After 1000 hrs you might be qualified to criticize. But not at this point. Listen to what these guys are saying...they know what they're talking about.
  Don't expect perfect engineering...it doesn't exist. There is not a mill builder out there without room for improvement. even Woodmizer who has been engineering mills longer than anyone is not perfect. many here who own them have made many changes and improvements to their mills...one in particular who could fill a paperback with all his mods, comes to mind.
     Did you think that you could buy a shiny new mill and become a pro the next day? it takes alot of dedication, practice and learning to become a professional sawyer. your mill is not an autonomous lumber making machine... it's just another tool in your shed.
  If you're really unhappy with your mill, see if TK will take it in on trade.

  In all fairness, I think it is wrong to claim sour grapes about a well respected Company who also generously supports this forum. some things you may not like, but that does not give you liscense to publicly question their professional quality. from now on, drive before you buy. The other thing is that I personally own an old, beat to h*** homebrew. it does not even compare to most mills here, but I cut dead straight lumber with it, every time. Imagine if you took the time to fix what you don't like about the saw and really learned how to dial it in. That saw is capable of some high production. I think you'd turn that frown upside down.

Chet

[beenthere]

I would doubt the lemon is the TimberKing. ;)
There is a learning curve to any of the bandmills, from my several years of observation. For some, the learning curve is much steeper than for others. No matter which mill, there can be problems but then there are many successes as well.

[Jeff]

The Forestry Forum is not a venue to come to spew at a manufacturer. I deleted the last post by groo that did only that. He did not ask for help, he only wanted to grind an ax.  Anyone that wants to do that, get your own website. it's not going to happen here.

[ladylake]

Have too agree, there are a lot of good mills out there that will saw straight or wavy lumber depending on the operator. Around here I've got quite a few complaints about wavy lumber sawed by bandsaws and you can bet it was the operator as they were good mills.  Steve

[cantcutter]

I agree it is a band issue, don't buy from TK and don't use their resharp program. I was running Cook's Super Sharp on my 1600, they solved all my wavy cut issues. You may also be running at too fast of a rate, listen to your engine... if it is dropping RPM in the cut, you are sawing too fast.

[beenthere]

cantcutter
I would only agree it is an operator issue, not a band issue. ;)

[Jeff]

Yup.

[ladylake]

I've used TK, Simonds, Lennox and Woodmizer blades that all cut good when sharp, set right and the right hook angle for the wood I'm cutting.  Along with the guides set right with 1/4" down pressure.   Steve

[redbeard]

I use TK ultra max and have great results.

[fstedy]

If you"re getting buildup on the blade try scraping it off with the blade idling. I had a lot of problems with sap sawing pitch pine and this method solved my problem. You also should try different blades for harder and softer woods. I"ve had good results sawing oak with Cook's SuperSharps and use Woodmizer 7 degree blades for western red cedar utility poles which are pretty dry. My TK B20 is a great machine with sharp blades. If your logs are a little dirty or the wood is abrasive the sharpness goes away pretty fast. The more experience you get with your mill you"ll notice engine rpm drop and having to increase power to the feed to mantain cutting speed. Keep trying it will come to you.

[Will_Johnson]

Groo I would be more than happy to personally address your concerns. Please feel free to call me at 800-942-4406 or email me directly at wjohnson@timberking.com.

I do think that there have been plenty of good suggestions here but would like to work with you to make you happy.

Best,

Will Johnson, President
TimberKing, Inc.

[dchiapin]

I also have a TK B-20 and when I first got the mill I had problems, though nothing serious, the people at TK have always been very helpful and spent as much time with me as possible to correct any problems.
like everybody else, I had the problem with wavy cuts and finally went to Suffolk Machinery and talked to them about the wavy cuts, they recommended a blade to correct the problem, since I mostly saw Long leaf Pine they sent me the right blades for the job. All you need to do is call them and explain the problems you are having and the species you are cutting and they will recommend the proper blade. Also I use plenty of lube a mixture of Pine Sol and water ( about a pint of Pine Sol to 5 gallons water) and let it flow. You really need to keep the blade clean or it surely will create wavy cuts.
Also as soon as you see any wavy cuts begin to happen, change the blade, don't wait because it just will get worse.

[j rock]

Groo, something eles to check- the V. belts on your band wheeles. If that are worn down and the band is toucthing steel your going to have problems. Use b-56 goodyear belts- I did'nt have good luck with TK. blades. I us Munks, on my TK-2000. The 2000 is very touchie but, when you get things right you'll turn out very true lumber.    J