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Difficulty sharpening chainsaw chains. . .

Started by MrWobbly, January 01, 2014, 06:10:10 PM

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MrWobbly

I have a Mac10-10, a Stihl 026, and a Stihl MS-460. I have around 75 chains and have sharpened many successfully. However, regarding the MS-460 (35 teeth, 70 skips  105 drive links  3/8" pitch  gauge 0.050", full skip), lately I just cannot seem to do it right. I use 7/32" files at 30ยบ, I feel the very sharp cutting edge with my fingertip, and the depth gauge is below the cutting edge. The groove in the bar is kept clean and the chain is well -oiled and adjusted. However, I find that in dry, hardened logs and stumps with fibers running every which way, the chain just throws out dust and small chips. What do you think?

1270d

If you are filing down into the cutter enough providing a decent hook, the rakers are set and everything is pretty even, its probably the wood.

I haven't been able to make a chain pull good chips in big hardwood knots when flush limbing.  Dead, dry wood doesn't cut very nice in the first place and if the area you are cutting has funky grain and knots it all be even worse.

Does it cross cut OK?

clww

Dry, dead wood is the hardest thing you can use a chainsaw on, even if it's sharp.
Welcome to the Forestry Forum. :)
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Many Stihl Saws-16"-60"
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CTYank

Also, make sure there are no burrs on the outside edges of the bar rails. They can snag wood.
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Jemclimber

When the wood being cut is end grain instead of side grain, as happens when cutting knots, swirling grain, or a steep wedge, the saw will through dust no matter how sharp it is.  Stand a log on end and cut across the end grain with a brand new chain or newly sharpened chain, and you can verify this. Chainsaw milling folks see this more.  As long as it's cutting at a good rate, disregard reading the chips to indicate sharpness when in these type of cuts.
lt15

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