Foley Belsaw M-14 problems

[wardbrook]

I did not hit the carriage mine is way farther than 1/4" though. I'm not sure exactly how far but it's probably in the ballpark of 1.25" with the way the bearing is mounted and bearing collar thickness I can't get it much tighter I have thought about adding a block of hardwood or plastic to the front edge of the carriage full length with deeply countersunk bolts to get it closer but also not matter if for some reason it did hit the blade.

When the carriage has jumped just the back trailing two sets of wheels have jumped off. As far as which way it's leading into or out of the log...The way the board cuts is thicker at the first part of the cut and thinner at the back, but the force was also wanting to push the headblocks back as stated earlier so if the log is sliding backwards the cut is going to get thinner. As seen in the level picture the outside diameter of the saw wants to cut deeper into the log while the part closer to the center obviously can't and/or it's pulling the log out of the dogs and rolling it? From the operator position it's pretty hard for me to tell exactly what's going on and knowing something was very clearly wrong I didn't want to take very many cuts to figure things out.

Edit: I'm thinking about that level backwards the top of the saw is coming out from the log

[wardbrook]

And you are running Stand All bits.

I was going to ask about this after closer inspection today I thought so, thank you. 

[DMcCoy]

Okay, good, well not good but at least we are on the same page.
My bet is still on the sharpening.  It doesn't take a lot even in softwoods like Douglas fir or Western Red Cedar.  I'm going to defer to someone with more experience with hardwoods.
I will try and get you a couple of pictures today.

[Ron Wenrich]

Looking at the bottom tooth, that will probably cut out of the log.  It's longer on the board side and it's also dull on the log side.  Some guys use a mirror on their teeth when they sharpen.  I never used it very often, but if you put a mirror on your tooth edge, the reflection in the mirror should be right back on the saw, not in an angle.

I think the shanks are okay.  I would think your sawdoc would have told you about bad shanks.  

Whenever doing any trouble shooting, I always went with new bits.  That eliminates the problem of anything with the teeth.  If it clears up, then you have to learn how maintain your blade a bit better.  Its part of the learning process.

I don't know if you have seen this booklet, but its a standard for all sawmills.  A bunch of info.

https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf

[wardbrook]

Thanks all, I ordered bits and a wrench last night I'll report back once everything comes in and I try it out. I have come across that booklet online and skimmed it I have that and the RH Hoe book saved in favorites. I need to print them both and read them more thoroughly I'll put that on my to do list while I wait for the bits to ship. 

[wardbrook]

Well the 2' of snow is finally melted off the mill so I was able to untarp it today and get back to this project. I am about to install the new bits I purchased. What is the correct depth can you over seat them and put them in too far? I only swapped out one so far to see how the tool worked. I just tapped it in until it seemed to want to stop on its own and didn't try to force it any farther. Pictures of one old tooth and the new tooth...



 

 

   

[moodnacreek]

Stand-all's cost more and take more power. Some times regular bits with regular shanks don't work. Frost is one issue but there our others. You half to experiment .

[wardbrook]

To anyone that helped me troubleshoot this back in early winter thank you. New teeth made all the difference it's like an entirely different mill. The log travels straight through it without hesitation and the blade barely grazes it when you send it back after the cut. No more diving into the cut or popping the carriage off the tracks mid cut. The wood coming off it is square and repeatable. 

Thanks again 



 

 

[moodnacreek]

Well good for you and thanks for posting. It is very hard to tell a new guy how critical the teeth are in sawing straight. The other problems that you had already addressed would have given the same symptoms as bad teeth.