How do you make a Shingle Roof?

[Gilman]

I'm in the process of building a small wood/garden tool shed.  I have a bunch of 5/16" x 4 - 10" x 16" cedar boards that I was planning on roofing the shed with.  These boards were surplus from a resawing job.  I'd like to have 1x4's or 1x6's for the sub roof so you could see the lumber from below.  What I don't know is:

1) How much exposure is needed for a 16" shingle?
2) 1x4 or 1x6 and what kind of spacing?
3) Anything else I should know.  Or has a similar thread already been posted on this subject?

Thanks in advance.

Gilman

[ronwood]

Gilman,

I would  put the rafters on 16 in centers. If the edge of the boards are not i would joint them or straight line rip in the mill. If using the mill I would position the boards such the side the would goes toward the single would be the side that the blade exits on the mill.

Ron

[mudburn]

I have limited experience, but I'll share what I think I know about a shake roof.

Many wood shingled roofs used 24" shingles with 8" exposed, allowing a three shingle layer roof. You can probably use 16" shingles. If I was doing so, I would not want more than 7" exposed, maybe 6". So doing, I would run horizontal stringers to which the shingles would be attached on that spacing. If you choose 7", then I'd suggest the 1x4s on 7" centers. You can nail or staple them to the stringers. If you place two nails or staples in the middle stringer, then each shingle will be attached at four points (the middle and then the top when the next course is run).

An historic method for shingling the peak involved letting the top course on one side extend over the ridge an extra 8" to 12". Here's a photo of a preserved cabin in the Great Smokey Mountains:



Darryl

[Jim_Rogers]

Another ridge detail is to put two boards up there with one nailed to the edge of the other at the correct roof pitch. And some type of tar on that edge so that the rain water won't leak through...

[Gilman]

Darryl,
I definitely haven't seen a top course like that before.  That might be too big of a conversation piece for me. 

Is Darryl pronounced Daryl, or Dar-rel?

As far as the 1 x 4, or 6's you would put one per course of shingles, aligning the board in the center of the nailing strip.

Would you nail 1 or 2" up from the exposure?

Jim, I think I will use your style of ridge cap.  Any special sealant for the joint that you would recommend?

[Don P]

Shingle exposure is the length of the shingle minus one inch, divided by three. for a 16" shingle exposure is 5", this gives three layer protection. At lower pitches 4 layer is a good idea.

Side lap between courses should be at least 1-1/2" and joints should not break over each other for at least 2 runs.

Nails should be 3/4" to 1-1/2" above the butt line, joint gap is up to 1/4" on dry shingles.

I was wondering why Dad's old '57 certigrade book was up on da desk last week  :D

[mudburn]

Gilman,

My name is pronounced Darryl. :D There are various spellings of that name (Daryl and Darrell, for example), but Darryl is the correct one.  :

Don P has provided some good advice for a wood shingle roof. I guess that's what books are for. I guess what you decide to do depends upon how waterproof you want your shed to be. When I mentioned 7" exposed, that was for only two layers instead of the ideal three layer.

My limited experience with wood shingles is limited reading, observation, and extrapolating to the roof from shingle siding. I've shared the photo elsewhere before, but this is my dad's house with pallet company culls cut to 18" for shingled siding:



He's leaving 8" exposed. A double layer seems fine for siding, but I do think it wouldn't be enough for a roof.

A gentleman I talked to who runs the grist mill at Cades Cove in the Great Smokey Mountains National Park said that he's never seen the ridge on the mill leak, and it's done just like in the picture I shared earlier. I think I might try it on a chicken house or something like that sometime where a leak wouldn't be a big deal.

Darryl

[Gilman]

Darn, three layers it will be.  Don't you know this is going to require more shingles though?

I'd go with two layers but one end will be Kathy's garden shed.  She was pretty adament about not having leaks in her shed, even little ones. :-\

Thanks for all the help.

I just might add that conversation piece ridge cap though.  Maybe just the rooster tail over the firewood end.  Then I be guaranteed to get to talk about it. 8)

[Mad Professor]

Gilman,

I would  put the rafters on 16 in centers. If the edge of the boards are not i would joint them or straight line rip in the mill. If using the mill I would position the boards such the side the would goes toward the single would be the side that the blade exits on the mill.

Ron

I don't believe on traditional wood shingle roofs the boards were eddged nor butted up close  under the shakes.  The boards under the roof were left with a space to allow the shakes to "breath/dry out". 

From a very good source I'm told this will allow the shakes to last many more years.

[thecfarm]

My wife wants me to build her a little cabin out in the woods.I would like to make my own singles.That would add alot to the looks of it.

[Furby]

I don't believe on traditional wood shingle roofs the boards were eddged nor butted up close  under the shakes.  The boards under the roof were left with a space to allow the shakes to "breath/dry out". 

From a very good source I'm told this will allow the shakes to last many more years.

Or is that simply what most people believe when they see the space between the boards in older buildings due to the builder using fresh cut wood?

Leaving a space when using dry lumber is a good idea to allow the wood to expand a little.

[Don P]

The specs in my old book do call for leaving a gap. I've been to the cedar bureau's website before, wouldn't be a bad idea to read there.
If your in that kinda place... shingles are supposed to be graded  :.

[Mad Professor]

I don't believe on traditional wood shingle roofs the boards were eddged nor butted up close  under the shakes.  The boards under the roof were left with a space to allow the shakes to "breath/dry out". 

From a very good source I'm told this will allow the shakes to last many more years.

Or is that simply what most people believe when they see the space between the boards in older buildings due to the builder using fresh cut wood?

Leaving a space when using dry lumber is a good idea to allow the wood to expand a little.

No this is the way it was done.  The source is someone who has been restoring barns/houses from the 1600-1700s for many many years.  He has also restored houses/barns that were originally thatch roofed.  Evidence of this is the borings in the rafters for thatch poles.

[Don P]

I remembered Darryl's shingle pic when I saw this restored cabin in San Antonio last week.