Chainsaw Technique Question

matariki · October 31, 2018, 07:35:00 PM

Hello everyone,

So recently I got myself a chainsaw; Husqvarna 372XP. It runs well, as it should. And I recently graduated with a level 2 in forestry operations (breaking out and processing). So most of my time with chainsaws up until this point has been spent cutting up large logs (pine) on the landing (which I spent 2 1/2 months doing out of a 6 month course). The problem I'm having though is with cutting up smaller hardwood branches.

I have set the depth gauges to hard wood, and sharpened up my chain in accordance to how I was taught. I'm processing smaller pieces of hard wood (branches) on a sawbuck. So far so good. But when I come to cutting, I find that the chain is having trouble cutting up the wood, instead its picking up the wood and causing the
chainsaw to buck.

Is this a problem with my technique, or a problem with the chain, or both? I had thought that the chain - being 3/8 chisel - is too big for the branches. So rather than cutting, its catching. I'm pretty new to chainsaw operating and I'm learning something new every time.

Cheers.

lxskllr · October 31, 2018, 07:54:05 PM

I'm not the best one here to give advice, but make sure you hit them full throttle. It gets less grabby like that. It can be grabby anyway. Nature of the beast.

mills · October 31, 2018, 08:08:50 PM

I think I know what your asking. ??? The chain needs to be near max rpm as it hits the wood. Faster would probably be better until you develop your own style that matches the wood to your saw.

If you want to develop a good technique at any physical activity, set up your phone or have someone film it for you. I coached youth sports for twenty-five plus years. It's so much better to show someone their actions than trying to explain it. What I wouldn't have gave to have had a smart phone back in the day.

Southside · October 31, 2018, 08:10:38 PM

I agree with having the RPM's up before the chain touches the wood, I have boogered mine plenty of times with too low RPM on small stuff like that.

Ianab · October 31, 2018, 08:21:51 PM

When you are cutting up limbs on a sawbuck, if you come in with the bar level, the chain tends to grab the limb and roll it over, kicking it and the bar up like you describe.

Lower the powerhead, and have the bar pointing up more. This helps drag the wood down onto the sawbuck and keeps it in place better. Then swivel the saw to bring the bar down through the wood.

With small loose limbs like that there isn't the weight to hold them in place properly, so the saw tends to try and flick them out of place.

The other guys are right about the throttle. Gun the saw just before you start cutting so the chain is just getting up to full speed as it hits the wood. That bit takes a bit of practice to get "just right".

HolmenTree · October 31, 2018, 09:18:51 PM

Matariki, congratulations on the 372 purchase. I remember you debating on a MS461.
If I understand correctly you're bucking up limbs into firewood length on a saw horse probably about knee to waist high?

Try laying the limbs on the ground with their butt ends up resting and overhanging on a 8 foot long log about 20 cm in diameter.
Rest your left foot on the limbs to hold them steady and buck off your firewood lengths with the lower quaderent of the bar nose.
Keep feeding the limbs over the log as you cut, or lay out a layer of limbs the full length of the log and cut as you go along.

When I put a new chain on my saw I don't file the depth gauges until I got the cutters filed down to about 3/4 length.
3/8 chain is the smallest pitch chain you'd want to run on a 372.

sawguy21 · October 31, 2018, 09:40:17 PM

Are you using a skip tooth chain?

matariki · November 01, 2018, 12:59:57 AM

Quote from: sawguy21 on October 31, 2018, 09:40:17 PM
Are you using a skip tooth chain?

Nope, just a standard husqvarna 3/8 full chisel chain.

matariki · November 01, 2018, 01:03:15 AM

Quote from: Ianab on October 31, 2018, 08:21:51 PM
When you are cutting up limbs on a sawbuck, if you come in with the bar level, the chain tends to grab the limb and roll it over, kicking it and the bar up like you describe.

Lower the powerhead, and have the bar pointing up more. This helps drag the wood down onto the sawbuck and keeps it in place better. Then swivel the saw to bring the bar down through the wood.

With small loose limbs like that there isn't the weight to hold them in place properly, so the saw tends to try and flick them out of place.

The other guys are right about the throttle. Gun the saw just before you start cutting so the chain is just getting up to full speed as it hits the wood. That bit takes a bit of practice to get "just right".

This did the trick, operating the power-head lower than the wood kept the wood in place. I found once I got the first bite in, the rest was smooth sailing. I need to make some adjustments to my sawbuck though, which is easy enough for me to do (since I built it).

HolmenTree · November 01, 2018, 10:25:57 AM

So show a picture of this sawbuck apparatus you built, I'm curious what you got there.

mike_belben · November 01, 2018, 03:57:26 PM

Lay a few limbs on at once and belly wrap them with a ratchet strap in the center then work from the outsides in.

If this solves your issue, fit up your buck with a few eyehooks so you can quickly yank and hook a scrap of swingset chain over the bundles. Use a garage door or screen door tension spring at one end of the chain. A good bungee cord will work but the sun will degrade them in time. I usually remove one S hook and shoot a screw thru any bungee i want to always have in the same spot.

You got a great saw.

joe_indi · November 01, 2018, 09:47:48 PM

If you are going to do a lot of limping of small branches maybe a change in cutting attachment might help. A less aggressive chain and a 8 teeth sprocket will give a smoother bite at higher chain speed. This will prevent the wood from being pulled by the chain.