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What to do with Hickory?

Started by WoodenHead, January 09, 2014, 08:24:22 AM

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kensfarm

Maybe that explains why mine left years ago..  life is def. one continous project.. sometimes you just have to tear it all out and start over.   ;D 

TimRB

If you find somebody who makes bows, he would probably love to have a bit of nice, straight hickory.

Tim

wildtmpckjzg

Quote from: Ron Wenrich on January 10, 2014, 06:23:49 AM
I've cut a fair share of hickory on a circle mill.  Some of it saws really hard and some of it saws fairly easy.  It depends on species.  Sometimes you the log will change as you saw through it.  

We get a lot of bitternut hickory, and that is difficult to even get the bark off of it.  That has lots of tension and will pull the saw.  Doesn't matter if it green or dry.  It wants to really pull the saw.  I often end up doing a lot of turning and taking a lot of shim cuts.  

We also do get some pignut and mockernut hickory.  Those tend to saw fairly well.  They debark easier.  The general rule for us is if it debarks decent, then the sawing won't be so bad.  I don't recall sawing any shagbark.  

I remember being on an Aussie board one time where they were making fun of Americans claiming they were sawing hardwoods.  They felt that hickory was one of their intermediate hardwoods.  I don't think any of them were running band mills.

The market for hickory isn't too bad.  We've sold a lot of grade.  The yield isn't quite as high on hickory as it is on red oak.  I remember when it rarely showed up in the yard.  I sawed for many years without sawing much hickory flooring guide, because of poor markets.  Those markets have changed, because it does make really nice cabinets.
I had my heart set on finished on site character grade hickory flooring for our new lake house. We are talking with an Amish gentleman that does nothing but hardwood. He is discouraging me. According to him, hickory will have gaps with even mild fluctuations in humidity and climate change in the house. I told him my second choice was white oak..he said better choice. what do you know about hardwood and hickory in particular? thanks.

beenthere

Which hickory are you thinking of?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

dogbo2013

Quote from: WoodenHead on January 09, 2014, 05:07:33 PM
Thanks for the responses.  

Is there any benefit to quarter sawing to minimize drying defects?  Should I kiln dry it green or air-dry first (or only)?  Is it likely to twist?

My wife would like some cabinets (for laundry and stuff).  But if it is nasty stuff, maybe I should consider narrow width flooring instead.
I would definitely quarter saw it. I have quarter sawn quite a bit of it and it lays flat with minimal movement. Air drying it seems to leave a little bit softer than kiln drying. The slower it dries naturally seems to be best. Either way, be prepared to change your saw blade, jointer and planer knives after a project. The end result is worth it.
GMB

Don P

After?, often midway  :D.

Shrinkage averages just to compare things
radial white oak 4.4%, radial (QS) hickory 7-7.6%
tangential (flatsawn) WO 10.5, Hickory 10.5-12%

QS WO wins, plainsawn in either is about equal and I've walked on both without complaint. Mine is plainsawn red oak @~8.6% shrinkage, no climate control and it does move a bit but not objectionable to me. I have those kinds of expectations tho.

Machinability, shaping... hickory ~25% perfect pieces out of 100, WO shaping ~85% perfect. Hickory rips out easy and long. Like others have said, gotta be sharp.

Personally I like the look of shag for a "hickory" look. To my eye it is the hickory in peoples minds. If you prefer strong clear white, mockernut and avoid the heart.

esteadle

Saw Hickory as green as possible.
Off the stump if you can.
Hickory makes good trailer decking.
5/4, 6/4, 8/4.

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